TF 2.5" Driveshaft upgrade. Rzeppa??
01-02-2012, 11:42 AM
#13
JK Super Freak
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I have a 2012 and have had 3 lift estimates so far and the front drive shaft is always the first thing they mention. It sucks because it adds around $500 to the cost.
Last edited by suicideking; 01-02-2012 at 11:45 AM.
01-02-2012, 02:44 PM
#14
JK Jedi Master
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Many go with the double-cardan route but it seems as though the need for adjustable upper control arms in addition to the new shaft is sort of crazy just to fix a rub against a boot VS tranny pan issue.
1). Has anyone tried an aftermarket auto transmission skid that clears the stock driveshaft? It seems like this would be a feasible option of possible.
2) DC style driveshafts have been know to offer better pinion angles but the bulk of exploded transfer cases and DS vibes also come from this type. I can't help but feel for a small 2.5 inch lift, a double-cardan is an overly expensive solution.
3). Apparently AEV will modify a stock OEM driveshaft to clear the rub areas, but does not offer to sell one outright. Has anyone had any experience with this new AEV shaft and does it clear properly under flex?
I would really like to get this solution found in a reasonably economic and sensible way without blowing 600-700 dollars to clear an inch of space from an auto tranny.
1). Has anyone tried an aftermarket auto transmission skid that clears the stock driveshaft? It seems like this would be a feasible option of possible.
2) DC style driveshafts have been know to offer better pinion angles but the bulk of exploded transfer cases and DS vibes also come from this type. I can't help but feel for a small 2.5 inch lift, a double-cardan is an overly expensive solution.
3). Apparently AEV will modify a stock OEM driveshaft to clear the rub areas, but does not offer to sell one outright. Has anyone had any experience with this new AEV shaft and does it clear properly under flex?
I would really like to get this solution found in a reasonably economic and sensible way without blowing 600-700 dollars to clear an inch of space from an auto tranny.
The stock skid will contact the driveshaft 'below' the boot. This will scrape and gouge, but doesn't seem to cause driveshaft failure. Trimming the stock skid will be much cheaper than an aftermarket skid.
Losing the boot covering the slip joint isn't a huge deal. Keep the shaft clean and greased and you'll be fine running it. The issue here is having enough flex/droop to bring the driveshaft into contact with the corner of the tranny pan. (actual metal to metal contact, not just ripping the boot off). This can cave in the corner or split the lip. THIS is the reason you want a narrower driveshaft.
The other issue to watch out for is a pinched boot in the joint at the tcase end of the shaft. From the new steeper angles, this little boot will eventually wear through, causing the loss of grease. It will then dry out, make noise, and eventually seize. Easily noticeble, you will see a big ring of grease on the undercarriage above the joint. As far as I know, this joint is non-serviceable and non-replaceable, so a new driveshaft is in order. Some people have no issue at 4+ inches, others are losing this joint at 2.5" or so. Keep an eye on the grease!!
If you feel that your angles are good enough for running a rzeppa on a thinner aftermarket shaft, give it a shot. But if you are one of us that lost the stock rzeppa, doesn't make much sense to move to the same joint on an aftermarket shaft.