spyther

I've tried to do my fair share of research on the issue and I've gotten a lot of info for people with taller lifts than what I possess. I am trying to find a little bit more information that is specific to me.

My set-up is a TF 2.5" coil lift on a 4 door Rubicon Auto. I have a feeling that my front driveshaft will be on its way out at first big flex. I've seen a lot of info, including the Newbie FAQ that says Double-Cardan is the way to go, but this is pricey when you add to the need for adj. UCAs. I was wondering, since I am not getting any vibes with my stock unit, wouldn't a replacement, thinner Rzeppa joint be more reasonable?

I really don't want to mess with too many angles, and it seems like this would be the cheaper and more simple solution but it seems like people here on this forum contest aftermarket Rzeppas saying they limit what angles you can run in your drivetrain. My question is, with only a 2.5" coil lift, is this really that much concern? Wouldn't a DC be a little bit overkill for my application?

Thoughts and ideas guys??

Sigman

Almost 4 years on the stock shaft. You will be fine.

TieRod

I have about 3 1/2" lift on the front with stock driveshafts. No problems yet and we wheel over AZ rocks. So many people pull off their OEM units that they are cheap to buy. I have a new set f/r from a 2012 for $200 so I'm ready if (when) one craps out. Not running 37's either, though.

spyther

At full droop the front DS will rub against the Auto tranny skid, which is why manual owners don't tend to have this problem. I know one of you listed a manual, but what about the rest of you guys? You've been okay with auto trannies and this lift for a while? I'm still running stock Rubi 32s if that makes any difference..

internski

AEV offers a smaller diameter ds with the factory joint. You will rub and tear the boot. How long it last after that is anyone's guess.

MoveRight

I have a 2010 JKU Auto Rubicon with 2.5 inch Teraflex lift. Tore the front DS boot off the first time out. I went with a thinner diameter DC made by a local shop. I tend to prefer overkill though! If memory serves correctly, i paid around $500 installed.

stevedolce

I tore mine 2 or 3 time out. Jku/ auto OME heavy duty lift.

A cheaper option is just buy a used stock DS from someone and spen an hour to replac it. That's what I did..

MoveRight

How does this address the problem? Won't another stock DS hit just like your first one?

rubiRI77

I have a teraflex 2.5 coil lift on my auto. 2 door. I trimmed the skid plate, but it still tore the boot on the tranny pan first time out doing some serious trails. I too am researching which way to go with aftermarket, as I feel just getting another stock one is basically a bandaid. Just my VERY unprofessional opinion however

spyther

Okay so the consensus seems to be with a Teraflex 2.5" lift with a 4 door automatic, you will tear the boot sooner or later if you plan on flexing. Got that down.

Now, as for remedies:

Many go with the double-cardan route but it seems as though the need for adjustable upper control arms in addition to the new shaft is sort of crazy just to fix a rub against a boot VS tranny pan issue.

1). Has anyone tried an aftermarket auto transmission skid that clears the stock driveshaft? It seems like this would be a feasible option of possible.

2) DC style driveshafts have been know to offer better pinion angles but the bulk of exploded transfer cases and DS vibes also come from this type. I can't help but feel for a small 2.5 inch lift, a double-cardan is an overly expensive solution.

3). Apparently AEV will modify a stock OEM driveshaft to clear the rub areas, but does not offer to sell one outright. Has anyone had any experience with this new AEV shaft and does it clear properly under flex?

I would really like to get this solution found in a reasonably economic and sensible way without blowing 600-700 dollars to clear an inch of space from an auto tranny.