Test: Hardtop Fix
#2
I don't think I understand what the problem was that needed fixing and what you have done there. Can you please explain? It might be something very helpful to others if they have the same issue as you.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
bolt hole cracks
Some people have been having problems with cracks forming at the bolt holes where the hard top bolts to the body. Several people have found the cracks before they ever take the hard top off from the factory. They are most likely from the bolts being over torqued. I haven't seen anyone post torque specs for the bolts to keep them from cracking. A few have posted solutions they have on different threads. The general idea is to figure out a way to spread the stress from the bolts across a larger footprint to reduce the stress/cracking right around the bolt. Hope that explination helped.
#4
Some people have been having problems with cracks forming at the bolt holes where the hard top bolts to the body. Several people have found the cracks before they ever take the hard top off from the factory. They are most likely from the bolts being over torqued. I haven't seen anyone post torque specs for the bolts to keep them from cracking. A few have posted solutions they have on different threads. The general idea is to figure out a way to spread the stress from the bolts across a larger footprint to reduce the stress/cracking right around the bolt. Hope that explination helped.
#5
couldn't you just use a big "fender washer" instead that might work as well as some of the other fix's for the problem. for me I just snug them and then just a little bit more and look at the top you will be able to tell it is to tight when the top flexes under the bolt
Just my idea
keep waving
Just my idea
keep waving
#6
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 810
Likes: 0
From: Tenino, WA.
couldn't you just use a big "fender washer" instead that might work as well as some of the other fix's for the problem. for me I just snug them and then just a little bit more and look at the top you will be able to tell it is to tight when the top flexes under the bolt
Just my idea
keep waving
Just my idea
keep waving
#7
Shameless Plug
Hey guys. I've come up with a kit for this.
I'm using laser cut 10 gauge stainless steel plates. I think 12 gauge could flex too much and any thicker than 10 gauge would require longer than factory fasteners. The goal is to use a material that will not flex. It's not cheap at $40 shipped, but it's a proper fix that installs in about 5 minutes.
LINK TO DETAILS
I'm using laser cut 10 gauge stainless steel plates. I think 12 gauge could flex too much and any thicker than 10 gauge would require longer than factory fasteners. The goal is to use a material that will not flex. It's not cheap at $40 shipped, but it's a proper fix that installs in about 5 minutes.
LINK TO DETAILS
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#8
Hey guys. I've come up with a kit for this.
I'm using laser cut 10 gauge stainless steel plates. I think 12 gauge could flex too much and any thicker than 10 gauge would require longer than factory fasteners. The goal is to use a material that will not flex. It's not cheap at $40 shipped, but it's a proper fix that installs in about 5 minutes.
LINK TO DETAILS
I'm using laser cut 10 gauge stainless steel plates. I think 12 gauge could flex too much and any thicker than 10 gauge would require longer than factory fasteners. The goal is to use a material that will not flex. It's not cheap at $40 shipped, but it's a proper fix that installs in about 5 minutes.
LINK TO DETAILS
Looks great, I think I am going to make some for myself similar to what you have done out of some scrap metal I have sitting around. I was actually thinking a full length piece might be even sweeter.
#9
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 810
Likes: 0
From: Tenino, WA.
Hey guys. I've come up with a kit for this.
I'm using laser cut 10 gauge stainless steel plates. I think 12 gauge could flex too much and any thicker than 10 gauge would require longer than factory fasteners. The goal is to use a material that will not flex. It's not cheap at $40 shipped, but it's a proper fix that installs in about 5 minutes.
LINK TO DETAILS
I'm using laser cut 10 gauge stainless steel plates. I think 12 gauge could flex too much and any thicker than 10 gauge would require longer than factory fasteners. The goal is to use a material that will not flex. It's not cheap at $40 shipped, but it's a proper fix that installs in about 5 minutes.
LINK TO DETAILS
The reason I put test in the heading was it was the first picture I ever posted and I wasn't sure it was going to work.
Last edited by CAOKKIE; 10-30-2008 at 09:53 AM.
#10
NOW, THAT IS SLICK. I'm actually working on a kit that's similar, but will work when the top is on or off. Lockable storage.
From the looks of that first pick you might want to add some reinforcement though. The metal is bending and that's not good for the crack deal. Or maybe it's just the picture.