Teraflex Drag Link Flip kit results
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Teraflex Drag Link Flip kit results
I installed the Terflex drag link flip kit because I wanted a better drive. Everything seemed logical enough when I looked it over.
Upon the test drive life was great. Even seemed to ride smoother, less binding.
But, once I got out on the freeway and got up to speed, there it all went. Steering is loose feeling and I am getting bump steer back in the steering wheel from the front end.
So, I sat down and started to draw it out, and guess what. This idea does not fly on paper at all. Can someone please tell me why this system should work?
Upon the test drive life was great. Even seemed to ride smoother, less binding.
But, once I got out on the freeway and got up to speed, there it all went. Steering is loose feeling and I am getting bump steer back in the steering wheel from the front end.
So, I sat down and started to draw it out, and guess what. This idea does not fly on paper at all. Can someone please tell me why this system should work?
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The reasons that flipping the drag-link can be desirable are:
-If you've lifted to a certain height, steering geometry is can be wonky without correction
-moves stuff further up out of the way.
-is a stronger rod than stock so shouldn't flex (bigger tires, more strain etc)
-includes a secondary brace to try and help tighten things back up.
I'm thinking (assuming install was correct) that something else could be the culprit still. Bad balljoints, something loose down there, unit bearings are shot, stabilizers' no good. Sure someone who knows more than me can chime in.
-If you've lifted to a certain height, steering geometry is can be wonky without correction
-moves stuff further up out of the way.
-is a stronger rod than stock so shouldn't flex (bigger tires, more strain etc)
-includes a secondary brace to try and help tighten things back up.
I'm thinking (assuming install was correct) that something else could be the culprit still. Bad balljoints, something loose down there, unit bearings are shot, stabilizers' no good. Sure someone who knows more than me can chime in.
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Tow is set, I have adjustable lower arms, all bushing are new. Alignment is perfect. Tire pressures are the same they have been for 20k miles.
Everything was fine before. I know what the benifits are supposed to be with flipping the drag link, that is why I did it.
No drag link and track bar are not parrallel. That is the problem with this kit. You end up raising the drag link on the passengers side, and lowering the track bar on the drivers side. After the fact, this does not make sense. But I thought, okay, who am I to question Teraflex. Take a look at this drawing:
Everything was fine before. I know what the benifits are supposed to be with flipping the drag link, that is why I did it.
No drag link and track bar are not parrallel. That is the problem with this kit. You end up raising the drag link on the passengers side, and lowering the track bar on the drivers side. After the fact, this does not make sense. But I thought, okay, who am I to question Teraflex. Take a look at this drawing:
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Tow is set, I have adjustable lower arms, all bushing are new. Alignment is perfect. Tire pressures are the same they have been for 20k miles.
Everything was fine before. I know what the benifits are supposed to be with flipping the drag link, that is why I did it.
No drag link and track bar are not parrallel. That is the problem with this kit. You end up raising the drag link on the passengers side, and lowering the track bar on the drivers side. After the fact, this does not make sense. But I thought, okay, who am I to question Teraflex. Take a look at this drawing:
Everything was fine before. I know what the benifits are supposed to be with flipping the drag link, that is why I did it.
No drag link and track bar are not parrallel. That is the problem with this kit. You end up raising the drag link on the passengers side, and lowering the track bar on the drivers side. After the fact, this does not make sense. But I thought, okay, who am I to question Teraflex. Take a look at this drawing:
Last edited by wayoflife; 10-19-2009 at 07:24 AM.
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#10
Well, as far as I know the bars themselves don't have to be parallel but the mountings points/bolts should be parallel... I'm pretty sure its not perfect but pretty close with the tf unit. After I installed this I re-adjusted my caster and toe till it handled perfect. I'm not sure why but how I had it set before didn't work ideally with the drag link flip/drop bracket. I would try making some adjustments and see what you come up with. Toe is so easy to set just tweak it each time you go out and see how it handles. I believe Im currently running 1/32 toe-in with around 6 degrees of caster with 4'' for a reference. Hope that helps.