eraujk

Anybody know how high i will need to jack up my jeep to put this on? Im in my garage here and just need to know how high to get this thing in order to fit the new coils in

Sporticon

I have the 2.5bb with adapters also and some people on the forum and others off said that I should also get a front track bar bracket. So I did and every time I hit a bump or whatever on the road it felt flighty. then someone else posted up that with the 2.5bb not to use a tb bracket so I took it off. Now it drives perfect like new. from what others have said now and IMO you don't need a tb bracket unless you go over 3" of lift.

Jst four K-X

I believe I got more than 2.5" out of the Teraflex coils, AZ-JKs front fender measured 24" and mine measure 25.5" in the same spot. Maybe because its a 2 door? Anyone know?

HG07JKRubi

Wow...looks greats Jst four K-X. Keep the pics coming.

afoulk

If purchasing this lift without shocks, what size shocks would I need to get? would I need shocks for a 2.5" lift or a 3" lift since the front springs seem to raise it 3"?

RubiJK

Yep, I agree. People talk about the geometry of the suspension, but we dont really stop to think about what that means. If you think about it, some engineers created each of these components to these exact dimensions for a reason. AND, they are all relative to each other and impact one another. Change one length, angle, roll, pitch, etc and it really changes other components as well. A lift no matter how you do it, changes a LOT; the angle/length of your track bar, which pushes your axle over, binds the control arms and sway bar links, the roll of the axle, its impact on the control arms, angle of the springs and shocks... ALL of those things change. Some impact others less, but they are all designed to work in relation to one another. According to this industry, we only need to address the "changes" that have the biggest impact. Still, even changing these components, not EVERY component is going to be in the same relation to each other and that is going to cause things to not be OPTIMUM. Is it necessary to be optimum? Dunno. Guess that one is diff for each jeep and jeeper...


The diff between the front track bar bracket and the adjustable track bar is mainly the angle of the resulting track bar and its relation to the drag link. The closer these two components are to being parallel, the better your suspension. As the wheel articulates and turns, these two arms work on slightly different arcs. The closer the arc of each of these is to the other, the more "true" things run. Changing the mounting location (track bar bracket) can put the track bar at more of an angle like that of the drag link. However, most track bar brackets arent infinitely adjustable. Some engineer made the mounting point the perfect height for X" lift. Well, just like pointed out below, actual heights vary a lot. If the bracket was meant to work on a 2.5" lift but you really net'ed 3" it will be off. Now, it prob isnt that big of a deal, as long as the bracket is suited/matched for that specific lift. Personally, I think the best way to approach it is BOTH a bracket and an adj track bar. That way the length AND angle that were changed when the Jeep was lifted will be changed back to mimic the drag link while re-centering your axle.

You bastage! Kidding. That is really interesting. Especially considering I have an extra 3/4" spacer and reduced weight up front. Hmm? Maybe one of us got a wrong part? Maybe you got longer coils? I imagine the weight of the 4 door to the 2 door would impact it, but 1.5"???? That doesnt seem right. If it was .5-1" I would buy it. Hmm.

Calling JOE at Tereaflex?????? Any thoughts??????

JK-Rubi

Speaking of sway bar links, read another post where someone with a TF 3" lift inverted one of the links. How level was your sway bar after this lift? Any other "tweaks", due to the lift, since your initial installation posts? Thanks.

Jst four K-X

Hey AZ-JK any word on the height difference w/the lifts?

TEEJ

They use the same shocks, so it doesn't matter.

RubiJK

My front sway bar arms are almost perfectly parallel to the ground using the rear sway bar extensions up front... Lots of tweaks since the lift was put on, but none that I could directly relate to the lift alone. Well, except adding a front adjustable Track Bar.

No, no word. I just PM'ed Joe and put in a link to this thread so hopefully he can respond. I havent gone back to re-measure, but I know mine has settled more. I'm pretty worried about squeezing 35's under it now. Here is a pic that is not full stuff in the rear, but is up pretty good and off camber... Not much room in the rear there...



They DO use the same shocks you are right. But, if you are going aftermarket, you might be able to fine tune things. I switched out the shock extensions that I bought with my kit and added TeraFlex's longer shocks. They are about 2" longer than the stock Rubi Shock+Extension setup. This is WAY better in my opinion. I get 2" more droop all around, and that helps to keep that tire on the ground and getting traction and moving me forward. I cant give you exact measurements, but I would say it is worth looking into and fine-tuning exactly how big of a shock you put on.

This is a pic of why I need at LEAST 35" tires... Also a great example of why front and rear bumpers can really disable you of they inhibit your approach angle. I think this would need 37's to get over, but you never know when you get lucky and also have the perfect line. I saw lots of WELL built rigs NOT make this fall...