Synergy Stage III 4" KIT.
08-26-2014, 12:11 PM
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Synergy Stage III 4" KIT.
Couple questions for you guys. I had a 4" full flex teraflex kit on order...but have decided to go with synergy instead.
Im looking at going with this kit but was wondering if I could cut out a few items for the time being (kit is 500 over my budget) and add them down the road in 6 months. This kit has front and rear track bars along with front and rear track bar brackets...is that really necessary?
Things that I was thinking of cutting out of the kid (let me know if any of this is bad idea)
-Front/rear bump stop spacers
-Front/rear shock mounts
-Front track bar ( I would just get the bracket)
-Rear track bar (I would just get the bracket)
-High steer drag link
-flip adapter
SYNERGY MANUFACTURING :: Jeep JK :: Synergy Jeep JK Stage 3 Suspension System, 4/4.5" Lift
Im looking at going with this kit but was wondering if I could cut out a few items for the time being (kit is 500 over my budget) and add them down the road in 6 months. This kit has front and rear track bars along with front and rear track bar brackets...is that really necessary?
Things that I was thinking of cutting out of the kid (let me know if any of this is bad idea)
-Front/rear bump stop spacers
-Front/rear shock mounts
-Front track bar ( I would just get the bracket)
-Rear track bar (I would just get the bracket)
-High steer drag link
-flip adapter
SYNERGY MANUFACTURING :: Jeep JK :: Synergy Jeep JK Stage 3 Suspension System, 4/4.5" Lift
08-26-2014, 12:59 PM
#2
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
I had adj trackbars already when I added the synergy brackets, don't know if there are any issues with the raised brackets and stock trackbars, but I doubt it.
You should probably get the taller bumpstops to try and keep the taller trackbar brackets off the frame, and keep the longer shocks from over-compressing.
They re-designed their trackbar to give clearance for the flip. So if you are waiting on the trackbar, you can hold off on the drag link and flip as well.
The shock mounts are the weld-on relo's to raise the shocks up a few inches? Those can wait.
You could even consider waiting on the front uppers and/or rear lowers for now. One set will allow enough caster/pinion correction to get you by for a while.
You should probably get the taller bumpstops to try and keep the taller trackbar brackets off the frame, and keep the longer shocks from over-compressing.
They re-designed their trackbar to give clearance for the flip. So if you are waiting on the trackbar, you can hold off on the drag link and flip as well.
The shock mounts are the weld-on relo's to raise the shocks up a few inches? Those can wait.
You could even consider waiting on the front uppers and/or rear lowers for now. One set will allow enough caster/pinion correction to get you by for a while.
08-26-2014, 01:50 PM
#3
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had adj trackbars already when I added the synergy brackets, don't know if there are any issues with the raised brackets and stock trackbars, but I doubt it.
You should probably get the taller bumpstops to try and keep the taller trackbar brackets off the frame, and keep the longer shocks from over-compressing.
They re-designed their trackbar to give clearance for the flip. So if you are waiting on the trackbar, you can hold off on the drag link and flip as well.
The shock mounts are the weld-on relo's to raise the shocks up a few inches? Those can wait.
You could even consider waiting on the front uppers and/or rear lowers for now. One set will allow enough caster/pinion correction to get you by for a while.
You should probably get the taller bumpstops to try and keep the taller trackbar brackets off the frame, and keep the longer shocks from over-compressing.
They re-designed their trackbar to give clearance for the flip. So if you are waiting on the trackbar, you can hold off on the drag link and flip as well.
The shock mounts are the weld-on relo's to raise the shocks up a few inches? Those can wait.
You could even consider waiting on the front uppers and/or rear lowers for now. One set will allow enough caster/pinion correction to get you by for a while.
So I can get away with just ordering the front lowers and rear upper arms for now? Would I be able to get away with adjustable track bars with out brackets is another question. Whats thoughts on fox 2.0 resi shocks or 2.0 with out res?
08-26-2014, 02:08 PM
#4
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
One set of arms 'tilt's the axle for correction of the caster/pinion angles. The second set allows you to move the entire axle forward/backward in the wheel well, and gives more adjustment for fine tuning. Judgement call for your specific situation as to whether you need to reposition the axles.
The raised brackets help offset the increased roll center from the lift and give a better ride. I was at 4" for several years before finally getting around to the brackets and the flip. It will be a personal opinion on how you think it handles, but yes, you can do without.
No experience with those shocks. I don't know if Dirtman posted a link here anywhere, but if you google "dirtman guide to shocks" or something similar to that, you should find his writeup, which I think is hosted on jkfreaks. It might give some helpful feedback.
The raised brackets help offset the increased roll center from the lift and give a better ride. I was at 4" for several years before finally getting around to the brackets and the flip. It will be a personal opinion on how you think it handles, but yes, you can do without.
No experience with those shocks. I don't know if Dirtman posted a link here anywhere, but if you google "dirtman guide to shocks" or something similar to that, you should find his writeup, which I think is hosted on jkfreaks. It might give some helpful feedback.
08-26-2014, 02:35 PM
#6
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
It's easy, you just don't add them to the shopping cart when you check out. 
As long as the drag link and trackbar remain roughly parallel, it should be fine until he gets around to adding the components. Maybe more road feedback/bumps traveling up the steeper bars and into the frame than if they were more flat with the flip, the same can be said for road feedback traveling up steeper control arms when not using drop brackets. You might have even noticed that MetalCloak doesn't use flips with their 3.5" lifts (people have stated 4-5" heights from them), which gives more room to stuff the tires when using their fancy shocks.
It's just personal preference on how you think it handles, not a must-have necessity.
As long as the drag link and trackbar remain roughly parallel, it should be fine until he gets around to adding the components. Maybe more road feedback/bumps traveling up the steeper bars and into the frame than if they were more flat with the flip, the same can be said for road feedback traveling up steeper control arms when not using drop brackets. You might have even noticed that MetalCloak doesn't use flips with their 3.5" lifts (people have stated 4-5" heights from them), which gives more room to stuff the tires when using their fancy shocks.
It's just personal preference on how you think it handles, not a must-have necessity.
08-26-2014, 02:35 PM
#7
I am going to assume this is a newer JK? By going all the way up to 4"+ you have many other issues you may want to consider. You need new drive shafts and you are going to have to do some exhaust work...are you aware of that???
4" is a LOT of lift on a JK. Consider doing a smaller lift and cut the fenders and you get a ton of travel.
4" is a LOT of lift on a JK. Consider doing a smaller lift and cut the fenders and you get a ton of travel.
Trending Topics
08-26-2014, 05:39 PM
#8
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am going to assume this is a newer JK? By going all the way up to 4"+ you have many other issues you may want to consider. You need new drive shafts and you are going to have to do some exhaust work...are you aware of that???
4" is a LOT of lift on a JK. Consider doing a smaller lift and cut the fenders and you get a ton of travel.
4" is a LOT of lift on a JK. Consider doing a smaller lift and cut the fenders and you get a ton of travel.
08-26-2014, 06:03 PM
#10
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
The crossmember can be dropped a bit, and you can take a chunk out of the skid if needed. But contacting the corner of the tranny pan enough to split the lip or dent it, that's something that would be good to check before it happens.