Brightwhite

Am having a hard time deciding between the two.

The synergy one seems very simple so I would do the install myself.

But the JKS one looks like it's a stronger setup, but needs some welding done, so I would probably have northridge install it for me. It's also more expensive ($150 more, give it take).

Is the JKS that much of a better solution?

Battlefrog21

Both are good choices. I prefer synergy products myself. But, anytime you do weld, it will obviously be much stronger...

FlexyJK

If you run the Synergy one they say you have to run their trac bar and that other's may not work.

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silenser21

I have the Synergy trackbar and sector shaft brace. Very happy with it.

jnabird333

You don't HAVE to, but there could be an interference at full passenger stuff with some TBs.

I have the Synergy Brace and REALLY like it. I also have a Metalcloak TB and have no issues at full stuff.

I did need to grind a little flat in my swaybar to keep it from rubbing, (Rubi). This wouldn't be an issue on a sport/sahara bar. (and maybe not for all rubi bars.)

I would take a picture but the wife called dibs on the Jeep today

Recharge

I have the synergy track bar and sector shaft braces. Currently I'm having an issue with the brace hitting the 2.5" Metalcloak springs. I have the control arms (metal cloak as well) shortened as short as they can go to move the axle back, but they still hit the brace. I do have my upper arms a bit longer giving up some caster for a better pinion angle which might be contributing to the interference. Otherwise I'm not sure what to do about it.

The JKS kit looks like it might work better for my scenario. The other option is Rock Soild's brace: RockSolid Performance Jeep JK Steering Sector Shaft Brace It mounts using the track bar bolt so it shouldn't interfere with the springs.

I pulled the bolt because it was going in-between he coils.



lower arms are short as they will go

jnabird333

It looks like you have a Trackbar adjustment issue not a control arm adjustment issue. Is you axle centered?

For proper caster your lower arms need to be longer than the upper, and by a good margin. Caster is the prevailing goal with front arm length. Only compromise it to remove drive shaft vibrations. I am running 5 degrees with no shaft vibrations on a 1350 jointed shaft. My upper arms are set to the stock length.

I have the 3.5" springs and am no where near the bracket...


edit to add after further review I can see your springs are pulled to the passenger side significantly. I think your trackbar is set WAY too long. It's also tough to tell for sure, but it looks like your front axle is kicked down. The face of the diff should be perpendicular or near perpendicular to the ground for proper caster.

kjeeper10

If your axle is centered laterally and centered in the well. Your coils should not be hitting ?
What's the measurement on the lowers (all the way in) compared to stock ?
Generally ... 23-231/8 is about right for a 3" lift. Uppers set caster/pinion.
Could very much be the track bar too. Address both IMO.

jnabird333

You are correct! I wrote this wrong in my post. Sorry for the confusion.

Recharge

Thanks for the info guys. I'll go try playing with my axle placement today.

I'm still learning about all of this. So thanks for having a bit of patience with me. One thing I'm trying to wrap my head around, is if i shorten the track bar, wouldn't that push the axle further to the drivers side and further away from the brace? So making it longer would push the springs closer to the brace. Or do I have that backwards? I still need to measure, but I'm pretty sure the axle is mostly centred.

Sorry for the thread jack. I was debating with going with the JKS or Rock Solid braces to resolve my interference problem. But if I can move the axle around and make it fit, then I would definitely have to recommend the Synergy brace. It feels super strong and it fits well (with a little force). The install is much easier than the JKS too.