After 40000 miles of which 8000 offroad, the stock drag link, steering staberlizer and front track bar failed. Replaced both bars with Synergy bars and the stabirlizer with Old EMU. The Synergy trackbar is incredible, while the drag link is worse than stock. The drag link is very heavy and has the propensity to rotate down, and to pinch the silicon bushings of the ball joints. In 10 000 miles I am on the 3rd set of silicon bushings....

 

Interesting comment about the drag link. I've run one for quite some time, but it's the older one that used a stock TRE at the pitman end and a GM 1 ton TRE at the knuckle. It does flop down a bit but I've never had it take out a boot. OTOH, I just installed Synergy's TREs on their tie rod, which had been equipped with GM 1 tons. Both off the GM tre's had gotten scary loose, no tension at all, and one was about to shed its boot. I had a bit of struggle getting the old TREs out, and noticed that the new ones tend to allow the tie rod to flop down a bit and pinch the silicone boots. Will keep an eye on 'em.

 

I will sure be watching this thread, as I have purchased the Synergy drag link to replace my bent factory one. I wonder is there no way to keep it from drooping down?. I noticed it feels very heavy, but never thought much about it, since I figured it just meant it would last. This is about the first issue I have read on the Synergy components.

 

Me too. I have their DL and tie rod, but have been too busy to install them.

 

My DL is a synergy too and droops down. However, no problems with the boots.

 

My view on Synergy drag link, was at one time I was leaning towards this drag link very heavily.. But after learning about the "flip" options, we aren't prepared to place 4.5 inch wheel spacers on the jeep just so the synergy drag link will fit.. Thus We'll be opting for an alternative drag link and other components.. Shame really, I was looking forward to using Synergy products on our jeep.. but this isn't going to happen.

 

Well I think the drag link will fit fine if the back spacing is right. I plan to run it on my AEV Savegre's, but not intending to flip it.
How long have you been running it GoBig?

 

It doesn't require 4.5" wheel spacers with factory wheels. It requires back spacing of 4.5" so with factory wheels you would need 1.5" wheel spacers.

It would only be flipped with a lift of 3.5" or higher because it requires 3" of bump stop addition.

 

At least one side needs to be completely drooped down so the drag link keeps it's orientation. I'll post some pics in a bit to show you what I mean

 

In the second pic you can see how the joint is maxed out downwards due to the weight and outward bend of the draglink. In order to get the bar oriented right that joint or the other has to be maxed out. Now that the bar is in it's proper orientation you can get the other joint to sit level as shown in the first pic