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Synergy drag link flip kit

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Old 05-29-2013, 04:21 PM
  #11  
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Yep. So true. I love mine, and its in a stock location because I have yet to find a damn 13/16 drill bit. Anyone wanna sell me his after they are done with it?

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Old 05-29-2013, 04:28 PM
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I was told to use the 7/8 bit and adapter.
Old 05-29-2013, 04:51 PM
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To install the TRE adapter you will be required to use a 13/16 drill bit.

Keep in mind you do not want to flip your drag link with out raising your track bar in most applications. Most of the time on the JK a drag link flip will actually be a negative "upgrade" unless you are lifted at around 3.5" or higher.
Old 05-29-2013, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Kent.Rowell
I was told to use the 7/8 bit and adapter.
I was thinking about that. The insert is actually right at .880 diameter and the 7/8 bit is .875. The instructions said you might have to pinch the inset to make it slightly smaller to allow it to press into the hole. It also stated that a 13/16 bit hole would likely have to be opened with a rasp and a dremmel to get it large enough. I think they were just trying to keep dudes that are jacked up on Mountain Dew from wallering out the hole and having to buy to expensive parts. Lol.

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Old 05-29-2013, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Smashboogie 4x4
To install the TRE adapter you will be required to use a 13/16 drill bit.

Keep in mind you do not want to flip your drag link with out raising your track bar in most applications. Most of the time on the JK a drag link flip will actually be a negative "upgrade" unless you are lifted at around 3.5" or higher.
What about dudes like me that have 4" lifts, but have a dropped pitman arm? Do I need to go back to a stock pitman arm first in order to "flip" my drag link? I have it installed underside and it is substantially better than my worn out part was, but I'm not sure if I will see a benefit flipping it to a top drop and having a dropped pitman arm.

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Old 05-29-2013, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Collyn

What about dudes like me that have 4" lifts, but have a dropped pitman arm? Do I need to go back to a stock pitman arm first in order to "flip" my drag link? I have it installed underside and it is substantially better than my worn out part was, but I'm not sure if I will see a benefit flipping it to a top drop and having a dropped pitman arm.

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Hehe. No benefit then. Only benefit it that u have a beefier drag link than stock pure and simple. But...if u loose the drop pitman arm, flip the drag link, raise the track bar with a 3" bracket ummmmm waste if money and/or dumb idea 😉.
All I can say is that it worked for me.
Old 05-29-2013, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Collyn
What about dudes like me that have 4" lifts, but have a dropped pitman arm? Do I need to go back to a stock pitman arm first in order to "flip" my drag link? I have it installed underside and it is substantially better than my worn out part was, but I'm not sure if I will see a benefit flipping it to a top drop and having a dropped pitman arm.

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
The drop pitman arm will correct your steering geometry but it does add extra stress on the sector shaft of the steering box.
Old 05-29-2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mechano

Hehe. No benefit then. Only benefit it that u have a beefier drag link than stock pure and simple. But...if u loose the drop pitman arm, flip the drag link, raise the track bar with a 3" bracket ummmmm waste if money and/or dumb idea dde09.
All I can say is that it worked for me.
Actually I have a track bar bracket installed. Actual lift of the Jeep was 4 1/4" and the track bar bracket net lift was 3 1/4" from the eye of the original mount to the eye of the raised mount. Does that seem strange? I would think that to keep things aligned, that the track bar should be raised the same amount as the lift of the springs. But, I guess that having the track bar raised over 3"'s it is already putting a lot of stress(twist and sheer force) on the bracket. 4"'s would probably make the bracket bend. Just seems that there should be a better way to keep the suspension centered under the Jeep with out the use of a lateral link( track bar) that is only capable of keeping the lift centered when its actually on level ground and not moving. As soon as the suspension articulates the slightest bit, the suspension shifts either towards the drivers or passengers side.

Oh. The pitman arm was only dropped just under 3"'s. lol. Sounds like a lot of compromises. No wonder the thing doesn't drive like a Lexus. Lol

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Last edited by Collyn; 05-29-2013 at 05:43 PM.
Old 05-29-2013, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Collyn

Actually I have a track bar bracket installed. Actual lift of the Jeep was 4 1/4" and the track bar bracket net lift was 3 1/4" from the eye of the original mount to the eye of the raised mount. Does that seem strange? I would think that to keep things aligned, that the track bar should be raised the same amount as the lift of the springs. But, I guess that having the track bar raised over 3"'s it is already putting a lot of stress(twist and sheer force) on the bracket. 4"'s would probably make the bracket bend. Just seems that there should be a better way to keep the suspension centered under the Jeep with out the use of a lateral link( track bar) that is only capable of keeping the lift centered when its actually on level ground and not moving. As soon as the suspension articulates the slightest bit, the suspension shifts either towards the drivers or passengers side.

Oh. The pitman arm was only dropped just under 3"'s. lol. Sounds like a lot of compromises. No wonder the thing doesn't drive like a Lexus. Lol

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Hehe. Exactly. These jeeps or heeps will never ride like a Lexus for sure. Just gotta be safe!
Old 05-29-2013, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Collyn
Actually I have a track bar bracket installed. Actual lift of the Jeep was 4 1/4" and the track bar bracket net lift was 3 1/4" from the eye of the original mount to the eye of the raised mount. Does that seem strange? I would think that to keep things aligned, that the track bar should be raised the same amount as the lift of the springs. But, I guess that having the track bar raised over 3"'s it is already putting a lot of stress(twist and sheer force) on the bracket. 4"'s would probably make the bracket bend. Just seems that there should be a better way to keep the suspension centered under the Jeep with out the use of a lateral link( track bar) that is only capable of keeping the lift centered when its actually on level ground and not moving. As soon as the suspension articulates the slightest bit, the suspension shifts either towards the drivers or passengers side.

Oh. The pitman arm was only dropped just under 3"'s. lol. Sounds like a lot of compromises. No wonder the thing doesn't drive like a Lexus. Lol

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
This make's sense. Our recommendation would be to get rid of the pitman arm drop to reduce the stress on the steering box and then flip the drag link.


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