Synergy drag link flip kit
#11
Yep. So true. I love mine, and its in a stock location because I have yet to find a damn 13/16 drill bit. Anyone wanna sell me his after they are done with it?
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
#13
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To install the TRE adapter you will be required to use a 13/16 drill bit.
Keep in mind you do not want to flip your drag link with out raising your track bar in most applications. Most of the time on the JK a drag link flip will actually be a negative "upgrade" unless you are lifted at around 3.5" or higher.
Keep in mind you do not want to flip your drag link with out raising your track bar in most applications. Most of the time on the JK a drag link flip will actually be a negative "upgrade" unless you are lifted at around 3.5" or higher.
#14
I was thinking about that. The insert is actually right at .880 diameter and the 7/8 bit is .875. The instructions said you might have to pinch the inset to make it slightly smaller to allow it to press into the hole. It also stated that a 13/16 bit hole would likely have to be opened with a rasp and a dremmel to get it large enough. I think they were just trying to keep dudes that are jacked up on Mountain Dew from wallering out the hole and having to buy to expensive parts. Lol.
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
#15
To install the TRE adapter you will be required to use a 13/16 drill bit.
Keep in mind you do not want to flip your drag link with out raising your track bar in most applications. Most of the time on the JK a drag link flip will actually be a negative "upgrade" unless you are lifted at around 3.5" or higher.
Keep in mind you do not want to flip your drag link with out raising your track bar in most applications. Most of the time on the JK a drag link flip will actually be a negative "upgrade" unless you are lifted at around 3.5" or higher.
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
#16
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What about dudes like me that have 4" lifts, but have a dropped pitman arm? Do I need to go back to a stock pitman arm first in order to "flip" my drag link? I have it installed underside and it is substantially better than my worn out part was, but I'm not sure if I will see a benefit flipping it to a top drop and having a dropped pitman arm.
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All I can say is that it worked for me.
#17
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What about dudes like me that have 4" lifts, but have a dropped pitman arm? Do I need to go back to a stock pitman arm first in order to "flip" my drag link? I have it installed underside and it is substantially better than my worn out part was, but I'm not sure if I will see a benefit flipping it to a top drop and having a dropped pitman arm.
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
#18
Hehe. No benefit then. Only benefit it that u have a beefier drag link than stock pure and simple. But...if u loose the drop pitman arm, flip the drag link, raise the track bar with a 3" bracket ummmmm waste if money and/or dumb idea dde09.
All I can say is that it worked for me.
Oh. The pitman arm was only dropped just under 3"'s. lol. Sounds like a lot of compromises. No wonder the thing doesn't drive like a Lexus. Lol
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Last edited by Collyn; 05-29-2013 at 05:43 PM.
#19
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Actually I have a track bar bracket installed. Actual lift of the Jeep was 4 1/4" and the track bar bracket net lift was 3 1/4" from the eye of the original mount to the eye of the raised mount. Does that seem strange? I would think that to keep things aligned, that the track bar should be raised the same amount as the lift of the springs. But, I guess that having the track bar raised over 3"'s it is already putting a lot of stress(twist and sheer force) on the bracket. 4"'s would probably make the bracket bend. Just seems that there should be a better way to keep the suspension centered under the Jeep with out the use of a lateral link( track bar) that is only capable of keeping the lift centered when its actually on level ground and not moving. As soon as the suspension articulates the slightest bit, the suspension shifts either towards the drivers or passengers side.
Oh. The pitman arm was only dropped just under 3"'s. lol. Sounds like a lot of compromises. No wonder the thing doesn't drive like a Lexus. Lol
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
#20
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Actually I have a track bar bracket installed. Actual lift of the Jeep was 4 1/4" and the track bar bracket net lift was 3 1/4" from the eye of the original mount to the eye of the raised mount. Does that seem strange? I would think that to keep things aligned, that the track bar should be raised the same amount as the lift of the springs. But, I guess that having the track bar raised over 3"'s it is already putting a lot of stress(twist and sheer force) on the bracket. 4"'s would probably make the bracket bend. Just seems that there should be a better way to keep the suspension centered under the Jeep with out the use of a lateral link( track bar) that is only capable of keeping the lift centered when its actually on level ground and not moving. As soon as the suspension articulates the slightest bit, the suspension shifts either towards the drivers or passengers side.
Oh. The pitman arm was only dropped just under 3"'s. lol. Sounds like a lot of compromises. No wonder the thing doesn't drive like a Lexus. Lol
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Oh. The pitman arm was only dropped just under 3"'s. lol. Sounds like a lot of compromises. No wonder the thing doesn't drive like a Lexus. Lol
Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.