Txguntrader

So I have a 2007 Jkur that already has a suspension lift on it. I have been trying to figure out the exact brand and height but have been unable to. I believe that I have a full traction lift system based on color and general look of the components, the system has all 8 aftermarket control arms as well as aftermarket front and rear track bars. It also has an ACOS coil spacer on the front (not sure why, i bought it this way) My question is can i just purchase a new set of taller coil springs and shocks instead of replacing the entire lift? Im only looking at going to 4 inches. Are there any other things that I need to replace at the same time? I am also planning to beef up the front axle at the same time.. that is if I dont need to replace the whole lift. I have done quite a bit of research on truss and sleeving and c gussets. And think I will probably do all of them since it will be apart anyways. I was quoted $2240 out the door to do Evo sleeves and c gussets, an Artec front truss and a set of dynatrac hd ball joints.. Does this sound like a fair price for parts and install? Thanks in advance for your expert opinions.

Brandon

karls

Your first step needs to be defining exactly what you have with your current lift so people can advise you on what may need replacing (driveshafts included).

Next you need to define your goal. Why the amount of lift? Why the reinforcement on the axle. The questions will determine if you are building correctly or just blowing money.

Txguntrader

I am not really sure other than posting pics how to define exactly what I have. I have contacted the shop that performed the work (screamin lizard) and they can no longer access older records. I did forget to mention that I do have an aftermarket front drive shaft and extended braided brake lines. I am wanting more lift for better clearance for larger tires. I have 35s at the moment and plan to move to 37s this year. I have trimmed pinch seams and get along just fine with the 35s. But want to be prepared for the 37s, hence the beefing up of the front axle. At this point I am being proactive when it comes to not breaking something. (although it may be smarter to take the money for beefing up the front and save it for a pro rock) My ultimate goal will be to have a moderate trail use vehicle that still has reliable street manners. Rather than replacing the entire suspension lift I was curious about just changing the coil springs and shocks. I will also need to change my bump-stops at that time i suppose.

nthinuf

Are the arms and trackbars adjustable? Have you done research on flips? Are your links adjustable, or long enough for the new height? If you have stock flares, would flats work for you instead of adding suspension height?

If you do decide to go with 4" coils, a BIG plus for a PR would be the built-in caster correction. Wouldn't hurt to go ahead and get a quote for filling an empty PR housing with your stock components for the apples-to-apples comparison.

all4wheels

Take it by the a reputable 4 wheel drive shop or maybe the one the lift was purchased from. They should be able to tell you what you have just by looking at it.

supdoggen

I think you should get a second quote on your axle work... It's about $900 in parts if you buy them, shops usually get a slight price reduction. To me, it looks like a 6 hour job for a slow shop, even at $100/h shop rate it would only come out to $1500 total. Did they include some sort of warranty or something? A lot of shops would just guarantee that type of work. I've only done the c gussets and sleeves but my shop only charged me $350($200 parts, $150 labor)

Txguntrader

I dont have an answer to your questions. Im not sure what the flips are? also I need to climb under and check the trackbars. I dont think that they are> so im guessing that means they are only good for the height that the kit came with? Links? im assuming you mean control arms? they are adjustable. I am planning to do flat fenders very soon as well, the problem i have is my jeep has a full width AEV bumper so its going to be difficult to maintain the factory front profile.

Txguntrader

I am going to check with another shop first for sure. I might just buy all the parts and have a friend burn them on. My concerns were heat and making sure it was done correctly. But im going to do more research and see if its something we can burn on ourselves and save the labor costs. If I go with pound in sleeves that will save some labor costs. I have the tool to do ujoints and ball joints Are they really that hard to do on the Jeep? Ill be reading more about this as well.

nthinuf

Many people are running 40" tires on a 4" lift with flat flares. I didn't see a mention of your tire size, but are you sure that is the route you want to take?

Post some pics of all of your components. Front, showing both ends of the draglink and trackbar, including any brackets attached. Upper drag link and pitman arm. Front and rear corner, showing the angle of the swaybar in relation to the frame/ground. Rear trackbar, showing any brackets that happen to be connected.

If you have non-adjustable trackbars, you probably have brackets that are centering the axles. If so, your axles will be offcenter if you change the suspension height.

If the swaybar links are too short, the swaybars have a nasty habit of flipping around backwards and damaging components when flexed (or on a lift at a shop). You want them roughly parallel to the frame/ground.

Brake lines need to be long enough to not rip out when you flex with the new longer shocks.

Bumpstops should be long enough to prevent the shocks/coils from over-compressing, and to keep the tires from moving up to far and ripping flares off.

As you go taller, the angles on the front trackbar and draglink get steep. Over 3.5" or so, many lift companies/people choose to add components to lessen that angle. The cheap route is a drop pitman arm used with a trackbar bracket. The better way is to do a flip - moving the axle end of the drag link up on top of the steering knuckle, and adding a different trackbar bracket. This keeps both bars parallel to each other, while lessening the up/down angle.

Txguntrader

Here are some random suspension pics, Not sure if these will help or not.









Everything is extremely filthy under there but I just got back from Barnwell mountain this weekend. Also because I have this bumper Its going to be hard to find Flat flares that look decent.