Suspension changes: 2DR to 4DR
#1
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Suspension changes: 2DR to 4DR
Hello Guys,
I have a question relating to suspension: I had a 2012 JK 2DR which I fitted with larger rims and tires (285/70/17 Cooper Discoverer AT3). At the time of the install (which was done by the dealer), they insisted that I install a 2 inch spacer kit to clear the tires, especially the track bar at full wheel turn - we did that and installed a Daystar 2 inch spacer kit. I was pretty happy with the setup, and the car drove nicely and near stock despite the E-rated tires. This was mainly and on-road vehicle with light desert/ beach cruising on occasion.
Fast forward a couple of months and I trade in the 2012 for a 2016 JKU sport. As part of the trade in, I requested they move the lift and wheels/ tires over to the JKU since they are practically brand new and look much better obviously. Anyhow, I am surprised by how lousy the ride quality is now on the JKU. It is extremely sensitive to changes in the road surface and I can feel practically every single crack in the road- a VERY harsh ride actually. It also feels rather weird at higher speeds and the rear does feel much more bouncier than the 2Dr was.... Tire pressure is at 30psi.
I am surprised to why this is happening. i thought the heavier JKU would have an improved ride in comparison to the 2DR even with the E-rated tires.... there is night an day difference between the ride quality using the same wheels/ tires/ and lift going from the 2012 2Dr to 2016 JKU. First, I would like to know why this is happening? and second, I want to fix this....
Maybe new shocks or a new lift, or go to D-rated tires instead? My goal is to get a nice smooth ride (as close to stock as possible) as this is mainly a family jeep at this stage...
Thanks
Latief,
I have a question relating to suspension: I had a 2012 JK 2DR which I fitted with larger rims and tires (285/70/17 Cooper Discoverer AT3). At the time of the install (which was done by the dealer), they insisted that I install a 2 inch spacer kit to clear the tires, especially the track bar at full wheel turn - we did that and installed a Daystar 2 inch spacer kit. I was pretty happy with the setup, and the car drove nicely and near stock despite the E-rated tires. This was mainly and on-road vehicle with light desert/ beach cruising on occasion.
Fast forward a couple of months and I trade in the 2012 for a 2016 JKU sport. As part of the trade in, I requested they move the lift and wheels/ tires over to the JKU since they are practically brand new and look much better obviously. Anyhow, I am surprised by how lousy the ride quality is now on the JKU. It is extremely sensitive to changes in the road surface and I can feel practically every single crack in the road- a VERY harsh ride actually. It also feels rather weird at higher speeds and the rear does feel much more bouncier than the 2Dr was.... Tire pressure is at 30psi.
I am surprised to why this is happening. i thought the heavier JKU would have an improved ride in comparison to the 2DR even with the E-rated tires.... there is night an day difference between the ride quality using the same wheels/ tires/ and lift going from the 2012 2Dr to 2016 JKU. First, I would like to know why this is happening? and second, I want to fix this....
Maybe new shocks or a new lift, or go to D-rated tires instead? My goal is to get a nice smooth ride (as close to stock as possible) as this is mainly a family jeep at this stage...
Thanks
Latief,
Last edited by latief; 07-11-2016 at 10:18 AM.
#2
JK Jedi
They might not have loosed all the bolts on the control arms and track bars after the lift and they may have all the joints in a bind. Did you by/trade the same sport model or did you have a sahara or rubicon model that has different coils and shocks?
Your ride should improve just due to the longer wheel base and weight.
Your ride should improve just due to the longer wheel base and weight.
#3
Agree^ OP take and loosen all 20 CA and TB bolts with jeep on the ground. Give the jeep a good shake before tightening all back to spec.
All 125 except front upper arms 75 ft lbs.
All 125 except front upper arms 75 ft lbs.
#4
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Yes, the trade was sport for sport. I asked about loosening up the bolts...they said they only tighten bolts up with the vehicle on the ground. I doubt they did all bolts though.....to be fair, this is a very mod-friendly dealer and they handle hundreds of modified jeeps...
Edit: One thing a forgot to add; the 'lift kit' is composed of spacers and bump stops only, so the stock shocks are extended 2" in both cases... not sure if this has an impact, or if the new shocks on the 2016 will soften-out a bit....
thanks!
Edit: One thing a forgot to add; the 'lift kit' is composed of spacers and bump stops only, so the stock shocks are extended 2" in both cases... not sure if this has an impact, or if the new shocks on the 2016 will soften-out a bit....
thanks!
Last edited by latief; 07-11-2016 at 09:23 PM.
#5
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We did this, loosened all the 20 bolts in the suspension (front-rear, upper & lower control arms; track bar bolts) , bounced the car multiple times and re-tightened everything....
slightly better, but still much stiffer and 'sensitive' than the 2012..any ideas? or should i just live with it....
one thing, i think that after loosening and re-torquing things, the car drifts to the right a bit :(
slightly better, but still much stiffer and 'sensitive' than the 2012..any ideas? or should i just live with it....
one thing, i think that after loosening and re-torquing things, the car drifts to the right a bit :(
#7
Check caster angle. Not sure what the jk is suppose to be set at, but I bet you have too much caster. Too little caster angle gives the steering a floaty feeling. Too much gives you what you are describing.