Superlift help
#21
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I have the same lift kit as you have. I used the cam bolts. They are adjusted to as far forward as they allow. This resulted in decent numbers on the alignment. I will check tommorow what they numbers are. I do not have a drop pitman arm or a drop bracket. Superlift still sells the lift kit and only uses the bracket in the rear. They do have a new rear track bar bracket coming out soon. I have spot welded my cam bolts in place. I don't see the need to have a machine shop make anything fancy to repair the cam holes because you already have the cams adjusters. By tack welding them they can no longer move when the lower control arm bolts loosen up.
I don't have any of these driving issues that you have talked about. Mine did ride a bit nicer with the 33's then it does on the 37's. But, my 37's are a little wide for my rims and require lower pressure to make a flat contact patch on the road. This combined with the already increased side wall height makes for noticable side wall flex on the road when turning at speed.
Do you know how to check the adjustment of your cam bolts to see if they moved? If not you will see the washers that the cam bolts go through on the lower control arm where it meets the axle. You will notice that the bolt is not in the center of the washer. The bolt should be as far rearward as possible with the largest amount of space of washer facing the front. Let us know where your cam bolts are.
I don't have any of these driving issues that you have talked about. Mine did ride a bit nicer with the 33's then it does on the 37's. But, my 37's are a little wide for my rims and require lower pressure to make a flat contact patch on the road. This combined with the already increased side wall height makes for noticable side wall flex on the road when turning at speed.
Do you know how to check the adjustment of your cam bolts to see if they moved? If not you will see the washers that the cam bolts go through on the lower control arm where it meets the axle. You will notice that the bolt is not in the center of the washer. The bolt should be as far rearward as possible with the largest amount of space of washer facing the front. Let us know where your cam bolts are.
Last edited by TexsDream77; 12-06-2008 at 07:35 PM.
#22
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The largest part of the washer is facing the front. Are you sure about this? They are making the arm longer. THe space should be to the front.
Last edited by kntr; 12-06-2008 at 07:33 PM.
#23
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Just curious... did your steering get worse in the last year since the lift was installed? If yes and your cams are all the way forward. I would also check the steering stablizer. If you disconnect one side of it and can compress it very easily... then that may have worn out.
Also, just noticed that you have 37's also. Big sidewall are inherantly going to follow groves in the road due to the side wall flex. If you were able to try running a smaller set of tires for a test drive and see if the problem persists I would do that.
Also, just noticed that you have 37's also. Big sidewall are inherantly going to follow groves in the road due to the side wall flex. If you were able to try running a smaller set of tires for a test drive and see if the problem persists I would do that.
#24
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#27
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Looks like mine exept for the stabilizer on yours is on the other side of the drag link. Where did you get the kit for that. Did you paint your steering stablizer? Or is it stock?
#29
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But what you describe is steering “kick-back” which is the steering input caused by road imperfections, ruts etc., applying steering forces back into the vehicle. This kick-back is exaggerated by larger offset wheels which will increase your steering scrub radius. If your running the stock SS then you might want to upgrade it to something that can handle 37's.
If your caster is dialed in then leave it be. I would; however, check your camber, most jeeps run from 0 to 1.5 degrees of positive camber. Camber is affected only by bent axle housings and tubes. A slight bend in the axle housing/tubes is enough to notice while driving(like you describe). Check the toe in as well, start at the stock setting then dial in a little extra which will reduce wander with bigger tires.
#30
JK Super Freak
see, this is exactly what I was wondering...as far as I know BlackDiamond and Superlift are pretty much the same thing, and I gotta say that the front track bar included in my kit is NOT the right one for the lift, so it's possible that the cam bolts you have in just don't provide the adjustment you require...oversight by the manufacturer perhaps?? I still say, grab yourself the cheapo angle finder, it's a small investment, and crawl under there and see what it reads...