supercharger install P0335 code
01-24-2009, 08:11 AM
#22
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THe quicker the engine speed the quicker (and narrower) the pulse train coming from the crank sensor. Idle is best case - the signal is slow and wide (relatively) - and potential issue of degraded signal quality (e.g. due to piggy backing) will be exacerbated at higher speeds. The ECU tpically looks at falling edges of the pulses - if these aren't clean you'll get issues.
Quick thought - did you by any chance just get the crank sensor signal and gnd reversed in your install - is there a crank sensor shield wire pin also ? did you connect to shield instead of sensor gnd ?
Good luck.
Quick thought - did you by any chance just get the crank sensor signal and gnd reversed in your install - is there a crank sensor shield wire pin also ? did you connect to shield instead of sensor gnd ?
Good luck.
01-24-2009, 08:14 AM
#23
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I could easily see that pigtail setup causing issues. In my '04 Cobra I have a Dynojet Wideband Commander datalogging box in there, it pigtails off the main harness going to the PCM. Caused all kinds of issues. My fuel trims were off, had a pop and stumble at idle, low rpm, and my a/f ratio would not stay as stable as it should have. Removed it and all was good. I now datalog through the ODBII port under the dash with my laptop and SCT software.
These signals are all designed for one purpose - so when they are 'b%ggered' around with the impedance matching is very important (so as not to load the line) as is not intoducing unwanted noise.
01-24-2009, 08:19 AM
#24
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hi guys, after installing my SC i reved the engine a few times everyting was ok, but then this code showed up P0335... anyways now the jeep cant rev higher than 3000rpm and there is missing sometimes, the check engine light keeps blinking, i had the vacume line mixed but i sorted that out and still have the problem, P0335 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT whats does the code mean and how can i clear it...
Oh, it's a RIPP... I have a similar problem (P033 I believe) and we've been messing around with it for a month. They kept telling us to recheck our wiring... Anyway, we finally spent an hour on the phone with one of their tech's and he determined it was a faulty map sensor. Said he would overnight one to me 8 days ago. I'm still waiting...
When you or installers are wiring in the Black Box - you’re splicing through the crank wire to gain proper timing control. If you hooked up the wires backwards or wrong in any way you will trip this light. It’s easy to hook the wires up wrong because Chrysler in all of its infinite wisdom used the same color wires on many of the pins which is confusing to begin with – this is carefully mapped out in the instructions. If you have a code it is real and not falsely triggered… our system is a ZERO Check Engine Light (CEL) environment… do-not ignore your codes.
We will check with our electronics staff and report back ASAP, there is no way a MAP sensor would or could trigger a Crank Sensor code. If your MAP sensor was bad it would translate to no power because there would not be fuel to compensate the added air proper timing control. Logically you would most likely trigger fuel type codes O2 or Random Cylinder Misfire – Sometime in the first few miles you may trigger a code or two as explained in the driving instructions but they should “learn” out shortly after. If you’re having a code of any sort it should be brought to our staff’s attention; they will instruct you accordingly - if they determining that wiring should be gone over and that’s not the cause of the issue, then you or your installer will need to set up time to speak with our electronics department … No one code should constantly come back.
You can drive to any Autozone Auto Parts store ask them to read a code for you (they will do it free of charge) and then clear it. Before you clear the code remove the superchargers serpentine belt and re-install the factory belt, this will rule out the superchargers variable. Drive it for at least 200 miles if you are triggering a Crank Code to rule out the,
Any of you having this issue should email your information to tech@rippmods.com with the problem, and a convenient on or after Monday January 26th we can call and speak to you or your installer for proper and through electronics tech support. We apologize for any misinformation or inconvenience you may have been experiencing and we will solve this ASAP.
01-24-2009, 08:31 AM
#25
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cool, i dont have an autozone where i live, thanks for joining the disscussion, im going to rewire again tommorow... just tell me which wires i should look out for and which ones are in ecu and engine..also i have one diagram with a green wire mentioned and one without the green wire, i followed the one with the green wire,
01-24-2009, 08:35 AM
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Codes should not be ignored - PO335 Is a crank sensor issue
When you or installers are wiring in the Black Box - you’re splicing through the crank wire to gain proper timing control. If you hooked up the wires backwards or wrong in any way you will trip this light. It’s easy to hook the wires up wrong because Chrysler in all of its infinite wisdom used the same color wires on many of the pins which is confusing to begin with – this is carefully mapped out in the instructions. If you have a code it is real and not falsely triggered… our system is a ZERO Check Engine Light (CEL) environment… do-not ignore your codes.
We will check with our electronics staff and report back ASAP, there is no way a MAP sensor would or could trigger a Crank Sensor code. If your MAP sensor was bad it would translate to no power because there would not be fuel to compensate the added air proper timing control. Logically you would most likely trigger fuel type codes O2 or Random Cylinder Misfire – Sometime in the first few miles you may trigger a code or two as explained in the driving instructions but they should “learn” out shortly after. If you’re having a code of any sort it should be brought to our staff’s attention; they will instruct you accordingly - if they determining that wiring should be gone over and that’s not the cause of the issue, then you or your installer will need to set up time to speak with our electronics department … No one code should constantly come back.
You can drive to any Autozone Auto Parts store ask them to read a code for you (they will do it free of charge) and then clear it. Before you clear the code remove the superchargers serpentine belt and re-install the factory belt, this will rule out the superchargers variable. Drive it for at least 200 miles if you are triggering a Crank Code to rule out the,
Any of you having this issue should email your information to tech@rippmods.com with the problem, and a convenient on or after Monday January 26th we can call and speak to you or your installer for proper and through electronics tech support. We apologize for any misinformation or inconvenience you may have been experiencing and we will solve this ASAP.
When you or installers are wiring in the Black Box - you’re splicing through the crank wire to gain proper timing control. If you hooked up the wires backwards or wrong in any way you will trip this light. It’s easy to hook the wires up wrong because Chrysler in all of its infinite wisdom used the same color wires on many of the pins which is confusing to begin with – this is carefully mapped out in the instructions. If you have a code it is real and not falsely triggered… our system is a ZERO Check Engine Light (CEL) environment… do-not ignore your codes.
We will check with our electronics staff and report back ASAP, there is no way a MAP sensor would or could trigger a Crank Sensor code. If your MAP sensor was bad it would translate to no power because there would not be fuel to compensate the added air proper timing control. Logically you would most likely trigger fuel type codes O2 or Random Cylinder Misfire – Sometime in the first few miles you may trigger a code or two as explained in the driving instructions but they should “learn” out shortly after. If you’re having a code of any sort it should be brought to our staff’s attention; they will instruct you accordingly - if they determining that wiring should be gone over and that’s not the cause of the issue, then you or your installer will need to set up time to speak with our electronics department … No one code should constantly come back.
You can drive to any Autozone Auto Parts store ask them to read a code for you (they will do it free of charge) and then clear it. Before you clear the code remove the superchargers serpentine belt and re-install the factory belt, this will rule out the superchargers variable. Drive it for at least 200 miles if you are triggering a Crank Code to rule out the,
Any of you having this issue should email your information to tech@rippmods.com with the problem, and a convenient on or after Monday January 26th we can call and speak to you or your installer for proper and through electronics tech support. We apologize for any misinformation or inconvenience you may have been experiencing and we will solve this ASAP.
I had to chuckle when you suggested going to an autozone - I was contributing so much as I saw he was in Dubai and likely alone...
01-24-2009, 08:47 AM
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no no no - the code is there for a reason (to protect your investment and emissions) why do "people" not get that?
Please do not drive your jeep in the current condition - clearing the code is kidding yourself.
Focus on fixing the issue and the MIL will go away on its own after 4 no-fault present trips (engine run, engine off) as I described earlier. The code will then go to "pending state" for 40 warm-ups - but no big deal it's there to help dealers like I said before.
As soon as the ECU see's there is no fault present on the crank sensor (i.e. first trip after you fix the issue) it will recognise it and immediately you will drive OK (or worst case on the second trip depending on the limphome strategy).
Please do not drive your jeep in the current condition - clearing the code is kidding yourself.
Focus on fixing the issue and the MIL will go away on its own after 4 no-fault present trips (engine run, engine off) as I described earlier. The code will then go to "pending state" for 40 warm-ups - but no big deal it's there to help dealers like I said before.
As soon as the ECU see's there is no fault present on the crank sensor (i.e. first trip after you fix the issue) it will recognise it and immediately you will drive OK (or worst case on the second trip depending on the limphome strategy).
Last edited by foxcasper; 01-24-2009 at 08:49 AM.
01-24-2009, 09:03 AM
#29
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no no no - the code is there for a reason (to protect your investment and emissions) why do "people" not get that?
Please do not drive your jeep in the current condition - clearing the code is kidding yourself.
Focus on fixing the issue and the MIL will go away on its own after 4 no-fault present trips (engine run, engine off) as I described earlier. The code will then go to "pending state" for 40 warm-ups - but no big deal it's there to help dealers like I said before.
As soon as the ECU see's there is no fault present on the crank sensor (i.e. first trip after you fix the issue) it will recognise it and immediately you will drive OK (or worst case on the second trip depending on the limphome strategy).
Please do not drive your jeep in the current condition - clearing the code is kidding yourself.
Focus on fixing the issue and the MIL will go away on its own after 4 no-fault present trips (engine run, engine off) as I described earlier. The code will then go to "pending state" for 40 warm-ups - but no big deal it's there to help dealers like I said before.
As soon as the ECU see's there is no fault present on the crank sensor (i.e. first trip after you fix the issue) it will recognise it and immediately you will drive OK (or worst case on the second trip depending on the limphome strategy).
PLUS they have ALLL sorts of different colors you can choose from so it matches your jeep and looks PRETTY!!!
01-24-2009, 09:13 AM
#30
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I think you can guess I'm on the design side of the industry ... no problem to help on any PCode fix (and what's probably behind it in the SW).