supercharger install P0335 code
01-23-2009, 10:30 PM
#11
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yes and yes, im guessing its our jeeps here, we have these huge fan shrouds and mechnical fan that need to be removed also, im guessing this is where my problem lies... 
gulf spec jeeps....
gulf spec jeeps....
01-24-2009, 04:19 AM
#12
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Oh, it's a RIPP... I have a similar problem (P033 I believe) and we've been messing around with it for a month. They kept telling us to recheck our wiring... Anyway, we finally spent an hour on the phone with one of their tech's and he determined it was a faulty map sensor. Said he would overnight one to me 8 days ago. I'm still waiting...
01-24-2009, 04:51 AM
#13
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p033? is it p0335 coz thats the one i have.... can you please find out.. coz im starting to think its the map sensor, what were your jeeps symtoms, btw ive been waiting like 2 months for it to get here...
Last edited by SLeepY_BoY; 01-24-2009 at 04:53 AM.
01-24-2009, 05:19 AM
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How are you reading the DTC's via a handheld tool or directly from the cluster using the turn the ign on/off/on 4 times routine and seeing the DTC's in the odo display ?
I'm wondering if you are only reading the one DTC causing the check engine to illuminate, and actually there ar more codes set in the module - tools can request DTCs in a number of ways and one way is to only ask for the DTC that set the MIL (not the other confirmed or pending DTC's that could be in the module) - maybe worth checing on the tool you are using - look for Mode $3 or Mode $7 or Confirmed or Pending DTC's in the menu.
If you read P0335 then that is what it is - this is a purely electrical type fault, and will not be related to the map sensor. If the MAP sensor has an electical problem you'll see P0107 or P0108.
** Unless that is the Map or some other sensor you may have "touched" or "exchanged" with the supercharger kit somehow shares an electrical ground with the crank sensor signal and it has been shorted. However, then I would expect to see more than one DTC stored; and typically the crank sensor will have dedicated wiring - but it could potentially be linked through the ECU's PCB to another sensor's ground - again I'd expect more than 1 DTC in this case.
You mentioned something interesting in your first post - that the check engine was flashing. The only time it flashes (at approx once per second) is during catalyst damagin misfire events - i.e. to warn you to back of the gas because at that time misfire is detected and damage to the catalyst will result if you continue. This would be accompanied by a P0300 or P0301..P0306 depending on the detected cylinder with misfire.
********
To help you further, tell me what you actually got in this Kit and what was exchanged out or modified.
Cheers.
I'm wondering if you are only reading the one DTC causing the check engine to illuminate, and actually there ar more codes set in the module - tools can request DTCs in a number of ways and one way is to only ask for the DTC that set the MIL (not the other confirmed or pending DTC's that could be in the module) - maybe worth checing on the tool you are using - look for Mode $3 or Mode $7 or Confirmed or Pending DTC's in the menu.
If you read P0335 then that is what it is - this is a purely electrical type fault, and will not be related to the map sensor. If the MAP sensor has an electical problem you'll see P0107 or P0108.
** Unless that is the Map or some other sensor you may have "touched" or "exchanged" with the supercharger kit somehow shares an electrical ground with the crank sensor signal and it has been shorted. However, then I would expect to see more than one DTC stored; and typically the crank sensor will have dedicated wiring - but it could potentially be linked through the ECU's PCB to another sensor's ground - again I'd expect more than 1 DTC in this case.
You mentioned something interesting in your first post - that the check engine was flashing. The only time it flashes (at approx once per second) is during catalyst damagin misfire events - i.e. to warn you to back of the gas because at that time misfire is detected and damage to the catalyst will result if you continue. This would be accompanied by a P0300 or P0301..P0306 depending on the detected cylinder with misfire.
********
To help you further, tell me what you actually got in this Kit and what was exchanged out or modified.
Cheers.
01-24-2009, 05:43 AM
#15
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well the kit has a new map sensor, and a black box that taps into the already existing wire loom, when i first started the the jeep everything was ok, and then suddenly out of nowhere the engine light come on and since then the problem has not gone away, i also sometimes get p0300 error code along with the p0335 code, and lot if missfiring..also im using the jeep to read error, i have not code reader
01-24-2009, 06:19 AM
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My advice is don't drive when MIL light is flashing - your cat will eventualy or suddenly meltdown/burn and either block your exhaust system (or shoot out the tailpipe - but this is less likely). There could be knock on damage back to your engine also - e.g. bits of cat stuck in exhaust valves/back into pistons,.. - not pretty or cheap to fix.
The calibrators at DC will set the light to flash at a slightly safe misfire limit, but it's there to avoid warranty costs to them! (not sure who pays where you live - but you've voided it with your kit so...).
FYI
There are two types of misire detection diagnostic algorithms - "catalyst damaging" and "emission impacting" they will both set the same DTCs (e.g. P0300 if >1 cylinder is detected as misfiring; or P0301 if just cyl 1 is detected etc).
Only when the rate of misfire is currently so high that catalyst damage is likley occuring (e.g. raw fuel is passed to hot cat, along with O2) will the MIL also Flash when such conditions exist - that is when you should worry.
One idea:
Does the black box basically go in line with one or more main harness wires from the engine controller (EMS) the jep probably has two or thee 3x1" ish connectors on an aluminium ECU [I cant check right now I'm not home]. If this is the case, the black box is most likley intercepting some signals (e.g. the MAP)and pasing through some others (e.g. the crank). I would check for good connection of the balck box - look for backed out pins in the connector, bad crimps of wire to the pins (sometime the pins are crimped to the plastic wire insulation instead of copper inner wire)... etc.
If you post some pics of the box in-situ and maybe a photo of any relevant installation instructions/diags I'll try help further.
The calibrators at DC will set the light to flash at a slightly safe misfire limit, but it's there to avoid warranty costs to them! (not sure who pays where you live - but you've voided it with your kit so...).
FYI
There are two types of misire detection diagnostic algorithms - "catalyst damaging" and "emission impacting" they will both set the same DTCs (e.g. P0300 if >1 cylinder is detected as misfiring; or P0301 if just cyl 1 is detected etc).
Only when the rate of misfire is currently so high that catalyst damage is likley occuring (e.g. raw fuel is passed to hot cat, along with O2) will the MIL also Flash when such conditions exist - that is when you should worry.
One idea:
Does the black box basically go in line with one or more main harness wires from the engine controller (EMS) the jep probably has two or thee 3x1" ish connectors on an aluminium ECU [I cant check right now I'm not home]. If this is the case, the black box is most likley intercepting some signals (e.g. the MAP)and pasing through some others (e.g. the crank). I would check for good connection of the balck box - look for backed out pins in the connector, bad crimps of wire to the pins (sometime the pins are crimped to the plastic wire insulation instead of copper inner wire)... etc.
If you post some pics of the box in-situ and maybe a photo of any relevant installation instructions/diags I'll try help further.
Last edited by foxcasper; 01-24-2009 at 06:29 AM.
01-24-2009, 06:44 AM
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OK, just checked the ECU is behind the washer bottle front right of engine bay (looking into the engine bay from bumper). It has 4 balck connectors - I asume your kit hooks into one of these?
How exactly does the box interface the vehicle wiring . Were any vehicle wires cut to achive the install, or were nasty crimps used, or was a clean pass-through connector type box used ? Pics of the instructions and what signals were affected will help.
I couldn't determine where the crank sensor itself is on my engine - it looks like it may be above a pulley just above the main crank pulley at the front of the engine. I wish I had a service manual!
I also checked the ripp website for info on the kit
They clearly piggback onto signals - I would guess the crank signal to provide timing - this is not good practice (but only way to do this aftermarket easily!) so their box electronic design could potentially be impcting the crank signal quality.
[I have seen this happen many times. For example, when development vehicles at OEMs are instrumented to log data - the car gets all wired up with logging gear and they wonder why it runs like a dog or won't start when they are finished]
If you have access to an oscilloscope I would check the quality of the crank signal (between signal and it's ground) - it should be 5V (I think) and a nice sharp square shaped signal pulses - measure at idle.
Having said this, a poor qualiy signal would more likley set a P0339 - but crank sensor diganostics can be tricky for the ECU's to diagnose.
How exactly does the box interface the vehicle wiring . Were any vehicle wires cut to achive the install, or were nasty crimps used, or was a clean pass-through connector type box used ? Pics of the instructions and what signals were affected will help.
I couldn't determine where the crank sensor itself is on my engine - it looks like it may be above a pulley just above the main crank pulley at the front of the engine. I wish I had a service manual!
I also checked the ripp website for info on the kit
They clearly piggback onto signals - I would guess the crank signal to provide timing - this is not good practice (but only way to do this aftermarket easily!) so their box electronic design could potentially be impcting the crank signal quality.
[I have seen this happen many times. For example, when development vehicles at OEMs are instrumented to log data - the car gets all wired up with logging gear and they wonder why it runs like a dog or won't start when they are finished]
If you have access to an oscilloscope I would check the quality of the crank signal (between signal and it's ground) - it should be 5V (I think) and a nice sharp square shaped signal pulses - measure at idle.
Having said this, a poor qualiy signal would more likley set a P0339 - but crank sensor diganostics can be tricky for the ECU's to diagnose.
Last edited by foxcasper; 01-24-2009 at 07:19 AM.
01-24-2009, 07:51 AM
#19
JK Super Freak
OK, just checked the ECU is behind the washer bottle front right of engine bay (looking into the engine bay from bumper). It has 4 balck connectors - I asume your kit hooks into one of these?
How exactly does the box interface the vehicle wiring . Were any vehicle wires cut to achive the install, or were nasty crimps used, or was a clean pass-through connector type box used ? Pics of the instructions and what signals were affected will help.
I couldn't determine where the crank sensor itself is on my engine - it looks like it may be above a pulley just above the main crank pulley at the front of the engine. I wish I had a service manual!
I also checked the ripp website for info on the kit
They clearly piggback onto signals - I would guess the crank signal to provide timing - this is not good practice (but only way to do this aftermarket easily!) so their box electronic design could potentially be impcting the crank signal quality.
[I have seen this happen many times. For example, when development vehicles at OEMs are instrumented to log data - the car gets all wired up with logging gear and they wonder why it runs like a dog or won't start when they are finished]
If you have access to an oscilloscope I would check the quality of the crank signal (between signal and it's ground) - it should be 5V (I think) and a nice sharp square shaped signal pulses - measure at idle.
Having said this, a poor qualiy signal would more likley set a P0339 - but crank sensor diganostics can be tricky for the ECU's to diagnose.
How exactly does the box interface the vehicle wiring . Were any vehicle wires cut to achive the install, or were nasty crimps used, or was a clean pass-through connector type box used ? Pics of the instructions and what signals were affected will help.
I couldn't determine where the crank sensor itself is on my engine - it looks like it may be above a pulley just above the main crank pulley at the front of the engine. I wish I had a service manual!
I also checked the ripp website for info on the kit
They clearly piggback onto signals - I would guess the crank signal to provide timing - this is not good practice (but only way to do this aftermarket easily!) so their box electronic design could potentially be impcting the crank signal quality.
[I have seen this happen many times. For example, when development vehicles at OEMs are instrumented to log data - the car gets all wired up with logging gear and they wonder why it runs like a dog or won't start when they are finished]
If you have access to an oscilloscope I would check the quality of the crank signal (between signal and it's ground) - it should be 5V (I think) and a nice sharp square shaped signal pulses - measure at idle.
Having said this, a poor qualiy signal would more likley set a P0339 - but crank sensor diganostics can be tricky for the ECU's to diagnose.
01-24-2009, 07:52 AM
#20
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yes i have had to cut some wires to fit the black box and ecu, and i have also checked the crank sensor, it is in the lower behind if the engine on the flywheel, and everything is ok in that area, so im guessing its the wiring, im going to open it all up and redo it tommorow, im also going to try to clear the check engine(dont know how yet). dont have the code reader....
but i dont understand the jeep was fine for like 10 mins at idle, its only when i reved it everything got all wierd and the check engine came on.
but i dont understand the jeep was fine for like 10 mins at idle, its only when i reved it everything got all wierd and the check engine came on.