supercharger install P0335 code
01-23-2009, 09:53 AM
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supercharger install P0335 code
hi guys, after installing my SC i reved the engine a few times everyting was ok, but then this code showed up P0335... anyways now the jeep cant rev higher than 3000rpm and there is missing sometimes, the check engine light keeps blinking, i had the vacume line mixed but i sorted that out and still have the problem, P0335 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT whats does the code mean and how can i clear it...
.... anyother ideas
01-23-2009, 06:38 PM
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I don't know the details of your kit but the DTC description is made to be pretty self explanatory.
Do you notice an extended cranking time before the engine fires and runs?
e.g. typicaly they fire almost immediately on cranking <0.5-1 rev of the engine.
If the crank sensor is not responding with the correct tooth pattern (typically 60 teeth are detected from its target wheel on the crankshaft per rev. - # of teeth vary by manufaturer) to the Engine Management System, the EMS will default to the CAMshaft sensor as the backup 'limphome mode' to get you home and not leave you stranded . It will then set the code and switch on the MIL (check engine lamp) so you get the issue fixed and indicate an emissions failure.
To synchronize on the CAM shaft it may take 1-2 revs of the engine (because CAM rotates half speed of crankshaft) - and hence a noticeable delay in cranking to engine running time (this delay varies depending on where the engine 'stopped' last time.
The CAMshaft sensor typically only has only 2 or 4 teeth per rev, so is much less accurate than the 60 tooth crank sensor in determining synchronization and actual engine position - hence an rpm and sometimes torque (i.e airflow => max throttle position) limit is set by the EMS for protection.
Given that a super charger typically involves hooking a belt up to the crank pully to turn the charger I would suggest the following:
1) Open Circuit Sensor:
You forgot to reconnect (or did not seat fully home); or dislodged the crank sensor harness conector to the crank sensor; or accidnetly cut one or both wires; or damaged the exposed sensor during fitment of the kit. I do not know where the sensor is located on the jeep's engine - it can be on the transmision end of the crankshaft, or near the crank pulley.
2) Short Circuit:
Similar to above, but you may have accidently shorted the two wires to the sensor together; or one of them to ground (e.g. engine block)
3) Did you remove the crank sensor or it's target?
It could be you did not seat it back properly to the engine - i.e. the gap between sesnor and target wheel (with teeth) on crankshaft could be too large and hence the signal intermittent or not at all. This is easily done.
Regarding clearing the DTC code/MIL light - here is how the software works:
It takes 1 or 2 consecutive trips (ignition on, crank, engine run, engine stop is one trip) to make the MIL light to come on in the cluster. For crank I would imagine it is 1 trip as it is a critical emission functon.
It always takes 3 good trips to extinguish the MIL. i.e. if you find the issue and fix it, it will take three short trips with no failure present for the MIL to be extinguihed at the start of the 4th trip.
[this is very simple for electrical DTC's - a more complex trip is reuired for dynamic DTC's that require a warm-up or drive at certain speed/load for example).
-> So don' t worry about getting rid of the light - concentrate on fixing the issue and it will put itself out.
The actual DTC will be in the EMS memory for 40 warm-up cycles of the engine after it is fixed - in order that dealers can see what you may be complaining about when you go in a week later (!). I forget the full definition of a warm up cycle, but it is essentially defined as an engine start below x degreesF, and warming up more than ydegrees - you can find it on the CA ARB website if you are interested!
Battery disconnects shouldn't work these days as DTCs should be stored in FLASH memory not KAM (RAM) memory.
Hope that helps.
Do you notice an extended cranking time before the engine fires and runs?
e.g. typicaly they fire almost immediately on cranking <0.5-1 rev of the engine.
If the crank sensor is not responding with the correct tooth pattern (typically 60 teeth are detected from its target wheel on the crankshaft per rev. - # of teeth vary by manufaturer) to the Engine Management System, the EMS will default to the CAMshaft sensor as the backup 'limphome mode' to get you home and not leave you stranded . It will then set the code and switch on the MIL (check engine lamp) so you get the issue fixed and indicate an emissions failure.
To synchronize on the CAM shaft it may take 1-2 revs of the engine (because CAM rotates half speed of crankshaft) - and hence a noticeable delay in cranking to engine running time (this delay varies depending on where the engine 'stopped' last time.
The CAMshaft sensor typically only has only 2 or 4 teeth per rev, so is much less accurate than the 60 tooth crank sensor in determining synchronization and actual engine position - hence an rpm and sometimes torque (i.e airflow => max throttle position) limit is set by the EMS for protection.
Given that a super charger typically involves hooking a belt up to the crank pully to turn the charger I would suggest the following:
1) Open Circuit Sensor:
You forgot to reconnect (or did not seat fully home); or dislodged the crank sensor harness conector to the crank sensor; or accidnetly cut one or both wires; or damaged the exposed sensor during fitment of the kit. I do not know where the sensor is located on the jeep's engine - it can be on the transmision end of the crankshaft, or near the crank pulley.
2) Short Circuit:
Similar to above, but you may have accidently shorted the two wires to the sensor together; or one of them to ground (e.g. engine block)
3) Did you remove the crank sensor or it's target?
It could be you did not seat it back properly to the engine - i.e. the gap between sesnor and target wheel (with teeth) on crankshaft could be too large and hence the signal intermittent or not at all. This is easily done.
Regarding clearing the DTC code/MIL light - here is how the software works:
It takes 1 or 2 consecutive trips (ignition on, crank, engine run, engine stop is one trip) to make the MIL light to come on in the cluster. For crank I would imagine it is 1 trip as it is a critical emission functon.
It always takes 3 good trips to extinguish the MIL. i.e. if you find the issue and fix it, it will take three short trips with no failure present for the MIL to be extinguihed at the start of the 4th trip.
[this is very simple for electrical DTC's - a more complex trip is reuired for dynamic DTC's that require a warm-up or drive at certain speed/load for example).
-> So don' t worry about getting rid of the light - concentrate on fixing the issue and it will put itself out.
The actual DTC will be in the EMS memory for 40 warm-up cycles of the engine after it is fixed - in order that dealers can see what you may be complaining about when you go in a week later (!). I forget the full definition of a warm up cycle, but it is essentially defined as an engine start below x degreesF, and warming up more than ydegrees - you can find it on the CA ARB website if you are interested!
Battery disconnects shouldn't work these days as DTCs should be stored in FLASH memory not KAM (RAM) memory.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by foxcasper; 01-23-2009 at 06:50 PM.
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01-23-2009, 07:38 PM
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It looks like the crank sensor is located front left "top-middle" of engine (if you are looking into engine facing the grill) - it seems to have mabe a 6"=12" wire with a mating connector to the main engine wiring loom connected to it.
I got this from the discountmoparparts catalogue someone posted a link to on another forum.
I got this from the discountmoparparts catalogue someone posted a link to on another forum.