Suggestions for first mod to JKU Arctic Editon
02-16-2012, 05:31 AM
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Suggestions for first mod to JKU Arctic Editon
What do you guys think I should do for my first mod?? I don't like the idea of not having lockers so with that said ...
What do you think should be the first upgrade? 1)OX cable Lockers front Dana 30 rear Dana 44 approx.($2500), 2)($1000) ramsey winch, or 3)bumpers and rock sliders shock works ($1900)?
Only American made parts for me.
What do you think should be the first upgrade? 1)OX cable Lockers front Dana 30 rear Dana 44 approx.($2500), 2)($1000) ramsey winch, or 3)bumpers and rock sliders shock works ($1900)?
Only American made parts for me.
02-16-2012, 06:20 AM
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What do you guys think I should do for my first mod?? I don't like the idea of not having lockers so with that said ...
What do you think should be the first upgrade? 1)OX cable Lockers front Dana 30 rear Dana 44 approx.($2500), 2)($1000) ramsey winch, or 3)bumpers and rock sliders shock works ($1900)?
Only American made parts for me.
What do you think should be the first upgrade? 1)OX cable Lockers front Dana 30 rear Dana 44 approx.($2500), 2)($1000) ramsey winch, or 3)bumpers and rock sliders shock works ($1900)?
Only American made parts for me.
02-16-2012, 06:26 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by USMC_JK
What do you guys think I should do for my first mod?? I don't like the idea of not having lockers so with that said ...
What do you think should be the first upgrade? 1)OX cable Lockers front Dana 30 rear Dana 44 approx.($2500), 2)($1000) ramsey winch, or 3)bumpers and rock sliders shock works ($1900)?
Only American made parts for me.
What do you think should be the first upgrade? 1)OX cable Lockers front Dana 30 rear Dana 44 approx.($2500), 2)($1000) ramsey winch, or 3)bumpers and rock sliders shock works ($1900)?
Only American made parts for me.
02-16-2012, 08:48 AM
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4) trail master suspension lift. Agree with these guys theres a lot that can be done without lockers. Also I think sliders are a must. I know they've saved me on multiple occasions
02-16-2012, 09:37 AM
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4) trail master suspension lift. Agree with these guys theres a lot that can be done without lockers. Also I think sliders are a must. I know they've saved me on multiple occasions
02-16-2012, 09:53 AM
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It all depends on what you want it to do. If you lift it and run bigger tires without re-gearing it you will be asking for trouble because of your final crawl ratio if you want to play in the rocks. Low gearing is critical to technical driving. Since the Arctic Edition uses the standard JK transfer case, your crawl ratio will be really high relative to the folks with Rubicons. If you just want a desert cruiser you'll be fine. But to climb stuff or play in teh rocks you'll need to either regear your axles, or install a RubiCrawler. The Rubicrawler costs about $1,600 and will give you more versatility than regearing your axles.
In my opinion, lower gearing should be a higher priority than armor because it will give you greater control in the rocks which is more likely to prevent both mechanical and body damage.
And if you just want a desert cruiser, the body armor is not really necessary. Again, it all depends on how you are going to use your Jeep.
In my opinion, lower gearing should be a higher priority than armor because it will give you greater control in the rocks which is more likely to prevent both mechanical and body damage.
And if you just want a desert cruiser, the body armor is not really necessary. Again, it all depends on how you are going to use your Jeep.
02-16-2012, 10:08 AM
#7
JK Freak
I got 2010's special edition with most of the same basic upgrades yours has, except the mountain edition has different colors... My first step, and I did it all at once, was to install 5.13 gears in front and rear, 3.5" Rock Krawler Flex system with jk tuned Fox Shox, Spidertrax wheel spacers, and 35" wrangler MT/R Kevlar tires. This is a great setup, especially with the procal tuner to set gear ratio and tire size. I am extremely happy with my choice and given a new stock jk, I would start the modding the same way.
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02-16-2012, 05:29 PM
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It all depends on what you want it to do. If you lift it and run bigger tires without re-gearing it you will be asking for trouble because of your final crawl ratio if you want to play in the rocks. Low gearing is critical to technical driving. Since the Arctic Edition uses the standard JK transfer case, your crawl ratio will be really high relative to the folks with Rubicons. If you just want a desert cruiser you'll be fine. But to climb stuff or play in teh rocks you'll need to either regear your axles, or install a RubiCrawler. The Rubicrawler costs about $1,600 and will give you more versatility than regearing your axles.
In my opinion, lower gearing should be a higher priority than armor because it will give you greater control in the rocks which is more likely to prevent both mechanical and body damage.
And if you just want a desert cruiser, the body armor is not really necessary. Again, it all depends on how you are going to use your Jeep.
In my opinion, lower gearing should be a higher priority than armor because it will give you greater control in the rocks which is more likely to prevent both mechanical and body damage.
And if you just want a desert cruiser, the body armor is not really necessary. Again, it all depends on how you are going to use your Jeep.
Thank you.
02-16-2012, 05:33 PM
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Thank you for the advise...I never heard of the Rubi Crawler before...seems like having a selectable lower gear would be beneficial in a Daily Driver. I did not see anything on their website that says if it will work on the new transmission in the 2012 or not. Do you happen to know if the existing Rubicrawler would work?
Thank you.
Thank you.