Steering Wheel
#1
Steering Wheel
I have 2018 Jeep JK, sometimes when I am pulling into a parking lot after slowing down and turning the steering wheel left, the steering wheel did not turn left (very stiff) and when I am applying more force to turn left I hear a loud sound coming from the front passenger side. Any advice or suggestions?
Thanks,
I Kady
Thanks,
I Kady
#3
No, I actually did not check the power steering fluid level. I took my Jeep to 4 wheel parts and after they checked it they told me that the tie rod kit needs to be replaced and the upper tie rod is the problem, what 4 wheel parts said does not make a lot of sense to me, because when I am trying to turn the steering wheel to the left side I feel like the front tires are pushing against a concrete wall and the steering wheel is stone solid.
#4
What kind of sound is coming from the passenger side? I totally understand working on this stuff is not in everyone's wheel house, but don't ever feel embarrassed to ask them to show you what they are talking about so you can understand. Most times they will walk you out to the shop and show you. They are saying your drag link joint is so seized that it's not allowing the steering to cycle? That is what it sounds like they are saying to me. I have a hard time fathoming that is the case, but working with very little information here so far.
#5
It's like the sound of a hammer hitting a nail but just once I am able to turn the steering wheel all the way left. it is like something is holding the steering from turning left and it let it go it makes this loud sound
#7
I have Mopar drag link. Do you think that I should upgrade the drag link to something that is more heavy-duty? My problem that I don't have any wheelers friends (friends who own a custom Jeep) I love to do mechanics but I just need a bit of experienced and honest advice. mechanic shops like 4WPs are just looking to get more money from customers😢
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#8
What brand of lift do you have? With 4.5" of lift I'd think you'd have a high steer kit, and since you still have a factory DL I'm trying to determine if you have a drop pitman arm on the jeep and if the track bar is raised on the axle or lowered at the frame. If you have to replace a DL there's no reason to go with another factory unit, but determining the equipment you have would dictate the commentary to follow.
#10
So you do have a high steer kit, though RC uses a drop pitman to accomplish this rather than flipping the drag link at the knuckle side which would be preferred. You would prefer to keep your frame side mounts as high as possible for best handling. If you replace your DL your options should be:
1) replace with a factory unit (not much reason to do this)
2) replace with an aftermarket DL that can be mounted in either factory or flipped orientation
3) replace with an aftermarket DL that can be mounted in flipped orientation (requires drilling knuckle and using a tapered sleeve) AND removing the drop pitman arm, reverting back to a factory pitman arm.
IMO, #3 is the best course of action. Keep in mind this isn't about off road benefits it's about pavement handling. You'd be able to keep using the raised TB bracket on the axle that you currently have (DL and TB need to remain parallel).
Going back to the original problem, the fact that there's resistance, then a pop or some sound and things break free, definitely does not sound like a PS fluid issue like I was thinking from the first post. Much different sound than I was asking about. Does sound like joint is seizing somehow (harder to imagine in factory joint but who knows) and at some point enough power is freeing it and allowing the system to cycle as it should. If you were comfortable doing so, I'd remove the DL completely and inspect myself. Heck, you could even just remove the knuckle end (it's easier to remove) and just see if the steering wheel cycles like it should, and you could then just use your hands to move the DL and see how the pitman arm joint is moving around.
1) replace with a factory unit (not much reason to do this)
2) replace with an aftermarket DL that can be mounted in either factory or flipped orientation
3) replace with an aftermarket DL that can be mounted in flipped orientation (requires drilling knuckle and using a tapered sleeve) AND removing the drop pitman arm, reverting back to a factory pitman arm.
IMO, #3 is the best course of action. Keep in mind this isn't about off road benefits it's about pavement handling. You'd be able to keep using the raised TB bracket on the axle that you currently have (DL and TB need to remain parallel).
Going back to the original problem, the fact that there's resistance, then a pop or some sound and things break free, definitely does not sound like a PS fluid issue like I was thinking from the first post. Much different sound than I was asking about. Does sound like joint is seizing somehow (harder to imagine in factory joint but who knows) and at some point enough power is freeing it and allowing the system to cycle as it should. If you were comfortable doing so, I'd remove the DL completely and inspect myself. Heck, you could even just remove the knuckle end (it's easier to remove) and just see if the steering wheel cycles like it should, and you could then just use your hands to move the DL and see how the pitman arm joint is moving around.