Ok so I haven't experienced a full on death wobble yet but I've got a problem and looking for some advice.. 25k miles on my jku 3.5 coil lift factory shocks and steering stabilizer 35" tires and everything else stock except springs and longer sway bar linkages... At low speeds hitting big bumps causes a few seconds of a slight/moderate wobble in the steering I don't think with this low of mileage anything should be worn enough to cause the wobble but the steering stabalizer.. Any advice? I don't want to prematurely replace the stabilizer and mask a more serious issue..

 

Re-torque everything

 

What's everything supposed to be torqued to?

 

Also I appreciate the reply!!

 

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings

This link takes you to all the torque specs you will need. Also, you may want to check out Planman's thread on addressing death wobble. He has some very intuitive videos on what to check and how to fix!

 

You have some solid info given here. If you are actually going to do 6" of lift then I would not be concerned about loss of articulation from bump stops needed to run a drag link flip. Your longer shock body will likely require that much bump stop as well.

I go over the components of the suspension in the thread listed in my signature. Most find it helpful in understanding what the different componets do and how they interact with other parts. You might find it helpful as well.

 

Ordered everything today. Synergy high steer drag link kit, bolt on track bar bracket and brace, ball joints, tie rod, 3" bump stops, grade 8 hardwear, and all new bushings for My R/E lift. Talked with R/E they say the new bushings have a lifetime warranty. Sounds like everything will be fairly easy to install, but we shall see...

I'm excited to hopefully not only fix my death wobble, but to also get rid of the sway/pulling motion I have always had in the steering.

Its funny the Synergy kit was about $100 than buying a new steering replacement system from Jeep. $770 vs $835. Northridge4x4 gave me a 10% discount as well for using this forum. Total death wobble fix/ upgrade is about $1,000 for my situation, which I am assuming is like a worse case scenario, (if anyone was curious). Of-coarse I could have bought stock OEM and prob found parts for like $250 online somewhere but who wants to do that.

 

That is far from a worse case scenario. Worst case would include all new steering gear box and weld washers on both trackbar brackets that were ovaled thanks to the incompetent fools at chrysler that used full thread bolts in an oversized hole..

Just sayin....

 

Front tires hopping off the ground, rear axle with 2"-3" of play, transmission shaking side to side, steering wheel had about 5" of play = pretty bad...

Anyway, I got everything installed, re-greased all of my zerk fittings I never new I had in my R/E lift, changed out my bushings, replaced all my hardware with Northridge4x4 grade 8 kit, torqued everything to spec's, the flip draglink part where you drill from the top is prob the biggest pain in the ass mostly because they tell you to use the wrong size in the directions, (took about 3.5 hours and a lot of cuss words).




Two things that stand out are...

One, my electronic disconnect seemed to stop working after the install?!? Didn't even touch it so don't know why/ what I did would effect it

Two, my disconnect on the passenger side is now trapped between the draglink and the spring so I am unable to move it out of the way. (I'll try to post a pic later).

I still need to get it aligned properly, but the steering is now better than when I bought it brand new, there is no play in the steering wheel, my transmission shifts smooth and doesn't clunk, it has immediate response, when I step on the brakes it doesn't pull one way or another, I don't get trapped in ruts on the highway, and driving into high-winds is no longer a death sentence above 40 MPH for me...Thank gawd! because driving through the Columbia George was always extremely sketchy, hopping across lanes when a big gust of wind would come.

Thanks again for everyone's input, I still need to install my 3" bump stops...Ran out of weekend. Total install was about 20 hours because I didn't have all the perfect tools and have never done anything like this before. It is for the most part a fairly easy install.

 

To go into more detail after the drag link is flipped it blocks in the quick disconnect in so you are unable to get it out of the way. I am trying to figure out how to get around this. Am I wrong in thinking that I should be able to disconnect my quick disconnect and zip tie it up to the sway bar like I have done before? The reason this is an issue is because my electronic disconnect stopped working and I am trying to go wheeling/camping over the 4th. Worst case scenario I can just completely remove the disconnect, but it seems like there should be an easier solution. As you can see in the pictures. If I try to disconnect and move backwards it hits the steering knuckle and spring and in the front it his the new drag link that is now a couple inches higher than the stock OEM one. Any suggestions? Assuming I am just missing something...

EDIT...I got it to pass over by disconnecting both sides pushing the sway bar up as high as possible and then tapping it over the draglink with my fist 3 or 4 times..