Crampt0n

So my steering is shot, I need new tie rod ends and drag link ends and my track bar has been tweaked and has also ovaled out where it connects to the axle... and my steering has about 5 inches of play in the steering wheel. I researched replacing with OEM and it sounds like the OEM is crap and I have been warned against it?

I have a 4.5" super flex Rubicon Express lift, but within the next year I would like to replace with another brand maybe 6+ inches. What is the best steering I can buy for the best price that will also be acceptable for a bigger long arm lift? I'm getting married soon, so if I spend too much my fiance will kill me. A friend suggested Currie or Omix Ada, but hes a tj and yj guy and doesn't know a ton about JK's. Also if I explained something wrong let me know. I'm just learning about steering since last night.

Thanks all,
Ryan

DunnyBunny

Synergy flipped drag link kit will handle your tracbar and draglink issue. Synergy tie rod will handle the tierod. Better strength and ends are a ton better than stock. Also since your so high it might fix any bumpsteer issues you might have had or might have.

Synergy drag link flip kit is $325. The tie rod is the same. Can use either a synergy tracbar or RK tracbar with it also. I'm sure others will work to. I would also suggest a grade 8 hardware kit from northridge. They fit the holes better and for other reasons also. You should be set after all that

Crampt0n

My local off-road shop looked into it this am and is suggesting I buy a weld nut/washer for the ovaling, a new hi steer, and beefed up tie rod and draglink for like $850? Like I said I am clueless on steering as I have not had anytime to research it. My Jeep is my daily driver so I need to try to buy the parts and fix it either this weekend or next week...

Crampt0n

Thanks for the feed back I will look into what you said

D_engel

If your shop quoted you $850 for weld washers, tie rod and full flip with labor, I say go for it. As long as they aren't the stock components

DunnyBunny

Agreed. The components I listed is about $700 alone without the aftermarket tracbar. So for about $150 in labor and not having to install yourself (if that's what you want) then that's pretty good. I myself enjoy installing my own components. Just verify what components he is using. Check out actual price of them and what they are made of. I like synergy because they are stronger than stock and use 1 ton rod ends that are greasable. Other companies like EVO charge the same amount nearly for their flip kit but use a stock draglink from a RHD JK. So it's exact same as your stick draglink with a different bend.

Crampt0n

No unfortunately that was just for parts. I'll do it all my self, that way I can learn. I called Northridge as well, they agreed with everyone. So I am buying a flipped draglink and tie rod for $525.00 (which also sounds like it will help with my articulation), bolt on track bar mt for $150.00, and a grade 8 bolt kit for $40.00. Sounds like it would be $400 for install at my local shop or Northridge for 4 hours of labor.

Maertz

it will not help articulation and depending on how much bumpstop you were running it may hurt your articulation.

Crampt0n

Huh, really? I was hearing that because of the flip, it would line everything up properly, causing less stress on the suspension components. Can you explain a little more? And I don't believe I ever did anything to the bump stops. Think they are still stock unless they came with the RE kit but pretty sure they didn't...

Maertz

You move the drag link higher up and closer to the frame. You have to make sure on uptravel it now dont hit the frame. Yes you steering geometry will be better at that lift height but if your steering is limiting travel you have some crazy travel or a crazy ass set up that makes no sense.