Steering issues after Front axle truss & ball joint install
03-24-2014, 03:11 PM
#11
03-24-2014, 03:15 PM
#12
JK Jedi Master
03-24-2014, 04:41 PM
#13
JK Newbie
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I was on a dirt road when I took that pic, not exactly level. I havent noticed any bump steer.
Sort of, and yes.
Up in the writeups area, you will find an index at the top. There is a DIY Alignment writeup in both the Steering and Troubleshooting areas. If the links are still broke, just scroll down. The Caster section shows a method using a cheap angle finder. This will not be as accurate as an alignment machine, but will get you some ballpark numbers to go on. (there is a more accurate location than the writeup shows, but I actually don't recall where it is. Maybe the pinion output? I'm sure someone will confirm the other location)
There have been quite a few posts indicating that the steering was very tight after new ball joints, and that it took a week or two, or a thousand miles or so, to loosen back up. Can't say for certain that that is what you are feeling, but it is not uncommon.
And if you have any local shops that offer free alignment checks, it wouldn't be a bad idea just to go in and get the numbers. Then you can post them to get some feedback on whether you want to do anything else.
Up in the writeups area, you will find an index at the top. There is a DIY Alignment writeup in both the Steering and Troubleshooting areas. If the links are still broke, just scroll down. The Caster section shows a method using a cheap angle finder. This will not be as accurate as an alignment machine, but will get you some ballpark numbers to go on. (there is a more accurate location than the writeup shows, but I actually don't recall where it is. Maybe the pinion output? I'm sure someone will confirm the other location)
There have been quite a few posts indicating that the steering was very tight after new ball joints, and that it took a week or two, or a thousand miles or so, to loosen back up. Can't say for certain that that is what you are feeling, but it is not uncommon.
And if you have any local shops that offer free alignment checks, it wouldn't be a bad idea just to go in and get the numbers. Then you can post them to get some feedback on whether you want to do anything else.
I just installed Synergy BJs a couple weeks ago and had no steering problems. Suggest you align your Jeep following the procedures here. You can do this at home. You'll need basic tools and an angle finder, which any hardware store can sell you ...
wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
I am just surprised that it tracked down the road perfectly fine before this latest round of mods.
Last edited by rbeezy05; 03-24-2014 at 06:49 PM.
04-14-2014, 12:03 PM
#14
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I know when I installed my new Synergy Ball joints that the steering was very tight and it seemed that I was constantly having to turn the wheel to get it back to center. Now after 6000 miles on them they are smooth as silk and the steering returns to center with no effort. I did the axle reinforcement and "C" braces at the same time and thought that maybe I had warped the tubes or "C's" but that wasn't the case, just takes a while for the ball joints to settle in and loosen up. I have had zero issues with the new ball joints compared to the stock POS joints. Now if they would only make unit bearings that will last with 35+ tires
04-14-2014, 12:21 PM
#15
JK Super Freak
I just went through the same exact issue as the op is having with my steering not returning to center. At first I thought it was my caster nope caster is set to almost 6 degrees. Then I thought it was my fox ats being set to high. removed it and it did not fix the problem. Then removed my tie rod and draglink from the knuckles. Turned the knuckle on my driver side by hand and felt no resistance. Then went to the passenger side and sure as shit it was my 10k mile old synergy balljoints binding up. Replaced them with moogs at the auto store down the block and drives much better no more oversteer but steering is still a little slow returning to center. it was more than likely install error not following the torque procedure on the ball joint install. OP it is your balljoints causing the issue. Give them 1k miles to break in and if your still having issues you may have torqued them incorrectly and its causing binding
04-14-2014, 02:09 PM
#16
I try not to repost or ask useless questions until I have searched and attempted to fix on my own, but I am desperate and need help. Here is the low down...
I just finished up my front axle "semi" build which consisted of Artec truss, artect c gussets, inner axle seals, jks adj. bump stops, synergy hd ball joints, arb diff cover and fox ATS stabilizer. I also added some spidertrax spacers during the re-assembly.
The issue: now currently driving at any speed the steering never wants to return to center. I don't think I have a bump steer issue, this seems more like a wonder or pull but it happens to the left and the right. In other words, oversteer, if I turn left the vehicle wants to continue going left until the steering wheel is over corrected back to the right and if I turn right the vehicle continues to pull to the right until the steering wheel is over corrected back to the left.
This issue was not present before the axle build up and ball joint install.
Tire pressure is 30 psi.
I removed the spidertrax= no change.
I removed the fox ATS= no change.
RK LCA & trac bar is set to RK spec, so I assume caster is okay.
I've re-torqued all suspension components front and rear.
As stated above the jeep drove straight as an arrow before I did the axle work and angles were in spec when the last alignment was done 3k miles ago.
Have I missed anything?
Should I pay to have an alignment done to check caster?
Thanks.
Also, all of the products listed that I have installed have a great reputation and I don't think my issues are a manufacture defect, probably leaning more towards something I did during the install
I just finished up my front axle "semi" build which consisted of Artec truss, artect c gussets, inner axle seals, jks adj. bump stops, synergy hd ball joints, arb diff cover and fox ATS stabilizer. I also added some spidertrax spacers during the re-assembly.
The issue: now currently driving at any speed the steering never wants to return to center. I don't think I have a bump steer issue, this seems more like a wonder or pull but it happens to the left and the right. In other words, oversteer, if I turn left the vehicle wants to continue going left until the steering wheel is over corrected back to the right and if I turn right the vehicle continues to pull to the right until the steering wheel is over corrected back to the left.
This issue was not present before the axle build up and ball joint install.
Tire pressure is 30 psi.
I removed the spidertrax= no change.
I removed the fox ATS= no change.
RK LCA & trac bar is set to RK spec, so I assume caster is okay.
I've re-torqued all suspension components front and rear.
As stated above the jeep drove straight as an arrow before I did the axle work and angles were in spec when the last alignment was done 3k miles ago.
Have I missed anything?
Should I pay to have an alignment done to check caster?
Thanks.
Also, all of the products listed that I have installed have a great reputation and I don't think my issues are a manufacture defect, probably leaning more towards something I did during the install
I had the exact same issue albeit not a Jeep but on my lifted Dodge diesel.
I replaced the ball joints some cheap Moogs and same exact oversteer symptoms you're describing.
Gave them about 5k miles to break in and no change.
Swapped them for some Dynatracs and it completely fixed it.
Did I not do something right the first time and just happened to the second or was it manufacturer based.....who knows.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
04-14-2014, 05:03 PM
#17
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The eyes have it!
The way I check caster is by the 2 indexing eyes along side the pumpkin. 
]===O({})O=[
.____^___ ^___
Those circles are perfectly vertical (90 degrees) when the caster is set to factory spec. (Assuming your shop floor is level.)
A simple bubble level is all you need to set caster. If you must have a clinometer don't waste your time and money on a cheap plastic dial type that you can't read closer than a degree.
I use the free app XClinometer for my android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ode.clinometer
iTunes sells the iPhone version for $1.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clin...286215117?mt=8
Very accurate, calibrate able, digital precision, many features. A must have.
]===O({})O=[
.____^___ ^___
Those circles are perfectly vertical (90 degrees) when the caster is set to factory spec. (Assuming your shop floor is level.)
A simple bubble level is all you need to set caster. If you must have a clinometer don't waste your time and money on a cheap plastic dial type that you can't read closer than a degree.
I use the free app XClinometer for my android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ode.clinometer
iTunes sells the iPhone version for $1.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clin...286215117?mt=8
Very accurate, calibrate able, digital precision, many features. A must have.
04-14-2014, 06:21 PM
#18
The way I check caster is by the 2 indexing eyes along side the pumpkin.
]===O({})O=[
.____^___ ^___
Those circles are perfectly vertical (90 degrees) when the caster is set to factory spec. (Assuming your shop floor is level.)
A simple bubble level is all you need to set caster. If you must have a clinometer don't waste your time and money on a cheap plastic dial type that you can't read closer than a degree.
I use the free app XClinometer for my android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ode.clinometer
iTunes sells the iPhone version for $1.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clin...286215117?mt=8
Very accurate, calibrate able, digital precision, many features. A must have.
]===O({})O=[
.____^___ ^___
Those circles are perfectly vertical (90 degrees) when the caster is set to factory spec. (Assuming your shop floor is level.)
A simple bubble level is all you need to set caster. If you must have a clinometer don't waste your time and money on a cheap plastic dial type that you can't read closer than a degree.
I use the free app XClinometer for my android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ode.clinometer
iTunes sells the iPhone version for $1.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clin...286215117?mt=8
Very accurate, calibrate able, digital precision, many features. A must have.
Great info...
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
04-14-2014, 06:55 PM
#19
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2013
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I just went through the same exact issue as the op is having with my steering not returning to center. At first I thought it was my caster nope caster is set to almost 6 degrees. Then I thought it was my fox ats being set to high. removed it and it did not fix the problem. Then removed my tie rod and draglink from the knuckles. Turned the knuckle on my driver side by hand and felt no resistance. Then went to the passenger side and sure as shit it was my 10k mile old synergy balljoints binding up. Replaced them with moogs at the auto store down the block and drives much better no more oversteer but steering is still a little slow returning to center. it was more than likely install error not following the torque procedure on the ball joint install. OP it is your balljoints causing the issue. Give them 1k miles to break in and if your still having issues you may have torqued them incorrectly and its causing binding
My steering is Ok. Tight but a little lazy returning to center like some describe.
I chalked it up to lower caster needed to run a double carden.
04-14-2014, 07:06 PM
#20
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I just went through the same exact issue as the op is having with my steering not returning to center. At first I thought it was my caster nope caster is set to almost 6 degrees. Then I thought it was my fox ats being set to high. removed it and it did not fix the problem. Then removed my tie rod and draglink from the knuckles. Turned the knuckle on my driver side by hand and felt no resistance. Then went to the passenger side and sure as shit it was my 10k mile old synergy balljoints binding up. Replaced them with moogs at the auto store down the block and drives much better no more oversteer but steering is still a little slow returning to center. it was more than likely install error not following the torque procedure on the ball joint install. OP it is your balljoints causing the issue. Give them 1k miles to break in and if your still having issues you may have torqued them incorrectly and its causing binding
First off...nice Jeep man. Like my twin!
I had the exact same issue albeit not a Jeep but on my lifted Dodge diesel.
I replaced the ball joints some cheap Moogs and same exact oversteer symptoms you're describing.
Gave them about 5k miles to break in and no change.
Swapped them for some Dynatracs and it completely fixed it.
Did I not do something right the first time and just happened to the second or was it manufacturer based.....who knows.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
I had the exact same issue albeit not a Jeep but on my lifted Dodge diesel.
I replaced the ball joints some cheap Moogs and same exact oversteer symptoms you're describing.
Gave them about 5k miles to break in and no change.
Swapped them for some Dynatracs and it completely fixed it.
Did I not do something right the first time and just happened to the second or was it manufacturer based.....who knows.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using JK-Forum
The way I check caster is by the 2 indexing eyes along side the pumpkin.
]===O({})O=[
.____^___ ^___
Those circles are perfectly vertical (90 degrees) when the caster is set to factory spec. (Assuming your shop floor is level.)
A simple bubble level is all you need to set caster. If you must have a clinometer don't waste your time and money on a cheap plastic dial type that you can't read closer than a degree.
I use the free app XClinometer for my android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ode.clinometer
iTunes sells the iPhone version for $1.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clin...286215117?mt=8
Very accurate, calibrate able, digital precision, many features. A must have.
]===O({})O=[
.____^___ ^___
Those circles are perfectly vertical (90 degrees) when the caster is set to factory spec. (Assuming your shop floor is level.)
A simple bubble level is all you need to set caster. If you must have a clinometer don't waste your time and money on a cheap plastic dial type that you can't read closer than a degree.
I use the free app XClinometer for my android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ode.clinometer
iTunes sells the iPhone version for $1.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/clin...286215117?mt=8
Very accurate, calibrate able, digital precision, many features. A must have.