Steering Issues
11-14-2010, 05:42 AM
#11
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The drag link is used to re-center the steering wheel. Really easy. Loosen two nuts, twist until the steering wheel is straight, tighten nuts. Takes less than 5 minutes. (click the link I posted to the DIY Alignment write-up)
An offcenter steering wheel will cause esp issues on turns. Your issue sounds more like bumpsteer? (hit a bump, and the tires try to take you all over the road?)
What are your alignment specs? And which kit do you have? I am guessing that your caster is low, which will cause flighty handling.
Here is an explanation from the faq's at the top of this modified section:
If you have the cheap RC 4" kit, you have Cam Bolts installed. This will let you adjust the caster a small amount, and will help with the steering issues. BUT, we need to know your current caster specs. They will be on the sheet you received from the alignment.
If you have the more expensive RC 4", you have adjustable control arms, which are a much better option for setting caster.
I am also curious about the front geometries. Look at the pic I linked. See how the Drag link and Track bar are roughly parallel to each other? That is what you want. Being angled away from parallel may cause steering/handling problems. Depending on what was in your kit, this may be an issue. Do you have drop brackets installed that would mess up that geometry?
The trackbar centers the axle left to right. The cheap RC kit has a bracket for this, the expensive one has an adjustable trackbar. Go see which you have. My guess is that you have a bracket, and your axle is already close enough to centered. Meaning - an off-center axle isn't the cause of your steering issues!! (if you are on a tight budget, going to an adjustable isn't a top priority)
Toe In is fairly easy to check yourself also. It's in that DIY alignment writeup.
Also, what psi are you running in your tires?
An offcenter steering wheel will cause esp issues on turns. Your issue sounds more like bumpsteer? (hit a bump, and the tires try to take you all over the road?)
What are your alignment specs? And which kit do you have? I am guessing that your caster is low, which will cause flighty handling.
Here is an explanation from the faq's at the top of this modified section:
If you have the cheap RC 4" kit, you have Cam Bolts installed. This will let you adjust the caster a small amount, and will help with the steering issues. BUT, we need to know your current caster specs. They will be on the sheet you received from the alignment.
If you have the more expensive RC 4", you have adjustable control arms, which are a much better option for setting caster.
I am also curious about the front geometries. Look at the pic I linked. See how the Drag link and Track bar are roughly parallel to each other? That is what you want. Being angled away from parallel may cause steering/handling problems. Depending on what was in your kit, this may be an issue. Do you have drop brackets installed that would mess up that geometry?
The trackbar centers the axle left to right. The cheap RC kit has a bracket for this, the expensive one has an adjustable trackbar. Go see which you have. My guess is that you have a bracket, and your axle is already close enough to centered. Meaning - an off-center axle isn't the cause of your steering issues!! (if you are on a tight budget, going to an adjustable isn't a top priority)
Toe In is fairly easy to check yourself also. It's in that DIY alignment writeup.
Also, what psi are you running in your tires?
50 psi......I have the cheap 4" RC lift, came with shocks,springs, and a drop pitman arm. I have a adjustable trac bar on order. I also planned on buy front lower control arms....think it is nessary right now or should i wait and buy the whole set at once?
11-14-2010, 06:32 AM
#13
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50 PSI ... holy crap ... you must be riding on the center 1 inch of the tread!!
What did your caster look like on the alignment machine. Your vehicle will always drift to the side with the Highest (towards 0 or positive) Caster ...
What did your caster look like on the alignment machine. Your vehicle will always drift to the side with the Highest (towards 0 or positive) Caster ...
11-14-2010, 08:45 AM
#14
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Thanks....i was just going off what psi the tires had marked.....the caster was 0's across the board
Last edited by maroonjk2009; 11-14-2010 at 09:23 AM.
11-14-2010, 11:21 AM
#15
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RC 4" $499.95
Front: Lifted coil springs, track bar bracket, pitman arm, sway-bar links, brake line brackets & hardware.
Rear: Lifted coils springs, track bar drop bracket, cam bolts, brake line relocation brackets & hardware.
Shocks: Features (4) Performance 2.2 series shocks.
Front: Lifted coil springs, track bar bracket, pitman arm, sway-bar links, brake line brackets & hardware.
Rear: Lifted coils springs, track bar drop bracket, cam bolts, brake line relocation brackets & hardware.
Shocks: Features (4) Performance 2.2 series shocks.
It comes with Cam Bolts. Were they actually installed?? Go back to the shop that did your alignment and have them re-adjust your caster. Actually, re-adjust isn't the right word, since they didn't adjust it to begin with... (see the 'what is caster' blurb from the faq's)
IF the cams were installed, they had to cut a notch to get them in. If you go to adjustable lower control arms, you will need to get that notch welded back up.
From the Wheels & Tires section of the faq's
Q: On the road, what PSI should I be running in my tires?
A: For optimal comfort and even tire wear. you should not run the recommended PSI listed on the sidewalls of your tires. Typically this will be way too much. On average for a 33" tire, I would recommend that you run your tires at approximately 28-30 PSI. For a 35" tire, I would recommend running approximately 26-28 PSI. For a 37" tire, I would recommend approximately 24-26 PSI.
A: For optimal comfort and even tire wear. you should not run the recommended PSI listed on the sidewalls of your tires. Typically this will be way too much. On average for a 33" tire, I would recommend that you run your tires at approximately 28-30 PSI. For a 35" tire, I would recommend running approximately 26-28 PSI. For a 37" tire, I would recommend approximately 24-26 PSI.
Last edited by nthinuf; 11-14-2010 at 11:32 AM.
11-14-2010, 09:47 PM
#16
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Are we talking about the same kit?
It has a front trackbar relo bracket. Did they install it? Is your front axle offset, or centered?
It comes with Cam Bolts. Were they actually installed?? Go back to the shop that did your alignment and have them re-adjust your caster. Actually, re-adjust isn't the right word, since they didn't adjust it to begin with... (see the 'what is caster' blurb from the faq's)
IF the cams were installed, they had to cut a notch to get them in. If you go to adjustable lower control arms, you will need to get that notch welded back up.
From the Wheels & Tires section of the faq's
It has a front trackbar relo bracket. Did they install it? Is your front axle offset, or centered?
It comes with Cam Bolts. Were they actually installed?? Go back to the shop that did your alignment and have them re-adjust your caster. Actually, re-adjust isn't the right word, since they didn't adjust it to begin with... (see the 'what is caster' blurb from the faq's)
IF the cams were installed, they had to cut a notch to get them in. If you go to adjustable lower control arms, you will need to get that notch welded back up.
From the Wheels & Tires section of the faq's
We are talking about the same lift, but I didn't have to cut anything to get it all together. What do the cam bolts look like that you are talking about? Also I lowered my psi to 30 this morning. When you asked if my axle is centered or offset are you refering to the pumkin part? If so then it is offset
I will go by the shop and see if they can adjust caster...or if they even know what I'm talking about..lol. Thanks alot for all the help
11-14-2010, 10:09 PM
#17
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In the pic of the kit, the Cams are the little silver bolts next to the upper shocks.
(small pic, go to their website for a better one)
Step 10 of the install pdf for that kit. (Which you can also view on their website)
A trackbar centers the entire axle left to right under the vehicle. When you lift, the axle is pushed off to one side. Without a bracket or new adj trackbar, when you look at the front or back of your JK, you will see one tire sticking out further than the other. If you installed the front bracket, the axle should be centered. (Both tires sticking out appx the same amount from the fenders).
From your reply, it sounds like you did the install yourself? And you did not install the cams? So you paid the alignment shop to do, umm, nothing?
(small pic, go to their website for a better one)Step 10 of the install pdf for that kit. (Which you can also view on their website)
10. Using a 21mm wrench, remove the bolts that secure the lower link arms to the axle. The OE lower control mounts are perforated from the factory. The perforated sections must be removed to accept the new cam bolts supplied in the kit. The perforated sections can be removed with a rotary grinding tool or a chisel. See PHOTO 4. 10. After the perforated sections have been removed, install the cam bolts. The cam bolts should be installed from the outside. Snug, but do not tighten at this time. See PHOTO 5.
From your reply, it sounds like you did the install yourself? And you did not install the cams? So you paid the alignment shop to do, umm, nothing?
Last edited by nthinuf; 11-14-2010 at 10:13 PM.
11-15-2010, 04:10 AM
#18
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Yes I installed the cam bolts.....and yes I installed the lift myself w/ a friends help. I checked the front and rear end and all the tires stick out the same distance from the fenders. So the axle is centered
Last edited by maroonjk2009; 11-15-2010 at 04:13 AM.