Steering issue...
06-14-2015, 05:16 PM
#12
JK Junkie
The Synergy (Poly Performance) setup is probably the most popular flip. When you are looking around, you might notice that a few of the kits on the market use stock draglinks from RHD jk's. Just an opinion, but if you are wanting to swap to heavier duty components, paying for a kit with new 'stock' components doesn't cut it.
But before you go that route, swap back to the stock pitman and remove the trackbar bracket and go for a drive. You might find that you are ok without adding the expense for the flip. (I drove around with a 4" lift for several years before flipping and raising either of the trackbars. Admittedly it handles better with them, but didn't drive bad without)
But before you go that route, swap back to the stock pitman and remove the trackbar bracket and go for a drive. You might find that you are ok without adding the expense for the flip. (I drove around with a 4" lift for several years before flipping and raising either of the trackbars. Admittedly it handles better with them, but didn't drive bad without)
06-14-2015, 06:14 PM
#13
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Honestly I don't know what the caster is at. I may have the alignment sheet but not certain on that either. I kind of left that in the alignment shops hands. They are the most reputable on in my area and I have used them before. What is the best way to check caster? I would actually like to learn how to measure that for my own personal good. I can get pics of the front end if it might give a visual idea of what I have. Hell it may be something really obvious to you veteran JK owners.
06-14-2015, 06:33 PM
#14
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If I looked at the right lift, it came with one set of front fixed lower control arms? Caster is set for the lift height, don't worry about it unless you want to fine tune.
To check it, go up to the writeups area. Stuck to the top is an index. The links may still be broke, if so just scroll down to either the suspension or troubleshooting areas and find the Basic DIY Alignment writeup. Maybe not the best way to check the caster, but at least it will give some numbers to go on.
Or, some shops will do free alignment checks. Not paying for a full alignment, just throwing it on the machine and printing the 'before' specs. (in the hopes that they can then talk you into paying a bunch of money on other stuff...)
To check it, go up to the writeups area. Stuck to the top is an index. The links may still be broke, if so just scroll down to either the suspension or troubleshooting areas and find the Basic DIY Alignment writeup. Maybe not the best way to check the caster, but at least it will give some numbers to go on.
Or, some shops will do free alignment checks. Not paying for a full alignment, just throwing it on the machine and printing the 'before' specs. (in the hopes that they can then talk you into paying a bunch of money on other stuff...)
06-14-2015, 07:25 PM
#15
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Yes that is correct on the arms. After doing a little more digging and reading the writeup about it over on JKowners forum about the track bar flip after DunnyBunny's and your recommendation I may spring for the Synergy steering correction kit. Only issue I am having is the cost of that reamer. I hope I can find one cheaper or rent one. I cant say that I'll ever use it again afterward. I understand the fact that it will aid in eliminating bump steer but still question about the irresponsiveness of the steering wheel. There are times if my hand is at 12 o'clock on the wheel and go into even a slight turn I can get almost to if not completely to the 2 or 10 o'clock before it response and turns and then over steers. That is the part that makes me pucker up. Also in advance Thank you guys for the input and help.
06-14-2015, 07:42 PM
#16
if it came with arms, your caster is fine.
Post up a picture of your front end whenever you get the chance. If you are experiencing oversteer after initiating the turn, I think that can be related to your lowered roll center that comes with a trackbar drop. Is there any sort of TB bracket in the rear?
Post up a picture of your front end whenever you get the chance. If you are experiencing oversteer after initiating the turn, I think that can be related to your lowered roll center that comes with a trackbar drop. Is there any sort of TB bracket in the rear?
06-14-2015, 07:46 PM
#17
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I haven't really read many of the steering box issue threads, but sounds like that just may be your issue. I know there is an adjustment knob on the top of the box, but you are supposed to actually remove the entire box and place it in a vice or something to adjust it. If the box itself is bad, I don't think that your year is rebuildable. (is the box black, or really rusty looking?)
06-14-2015, 09:16 PM
#18
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The box is still black, there really isn't any rust at all on the jeep except the exhaust parts and a few bits of hardware and I know about the thrust bolt adjustment and it can be done in the vehicle. I did it on our old Durango. That issue would have permanent slop all the time. The problem I have is sporadic. I didn't have this issue until the lift so that is why I thought it was related to something in the geometry. I initially thought it may be the ESP but I don't get a light. I looked on Synergy's site and didn't see a $10 adapter unless I overlooked it or looked at the wrong thing. I will try and find some of the steering box threads.
06-14-2015, 10:09 PM
#19
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Lol, wasn't a comment on rust. The delphi steering boxes from the earlier JK years can be rebuilt (rusty looking). The newer boxes cannot (black). Just don't recall which year the new boxes started.
The flip adapter part number is 8001-03-01.
And yeah, it could be geometry related. I just don't remember seeing any posts about steering dead spots from a lift. Generally it is low caster causing flightyness, draglink and trackbar not being parallel causing bumpsteer, a sticky spot when turning the steering wheel was a beat up stabilizer, and a LOT of loose trackbar bolts causing shimmies.
The flip adapter part number is 8001-03-01.
And yeah, it could be geometry related. I just don't remember seeing any posts about steering dead spots from a lift. Generally it is low caster causing flightyness, draglink and trackbar not being parallel causing bumpsteer, a sticky spot when turning the steering wheel was a beat up stabilizer, and a LOT of loose trackbar bolts causing shimmies.
Last edited by nthinuf; 06-14-2015 at 10:21 PM.