Starting my build soon, looking for experienced builders to chime in
06-20-2014, 04:00 PM
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Starting my build soon, looking for experienced builders to chime in
Hey all, just got a new ‘14 Rubicon 4door and I’ve been reading up on all the possibilities for it.
This will be my wife’s DD, our intent is to fit as many Jamborees/Events as we can each year, limited by work schedule, which is to say maybe 3-4 trips per year with some local weekend stuff sprinkled in.
What’s important to us is to retain as much mileage as we can, drivability, low maintenance, and an ability to do trails rated 1-6, with a possible 7 thrown in there if we’re feeling brave.
I really want 37’s but I know it’s impractical for us at this time, however with every dollar spent, I want to be prepared to put on 37’s at a moments notice without having to do anything other than mount the tires. As I understand it, I should be able to add a 1” body lift and flat fenders to make this happen. The goal here is to stay as low as possible while allowing 37’s.
I’m looking for critique of my planned build, is there anything I may have left out, any thoughts that may add to enjoyment, reliability, peace of mind? Future proofing suggestions, for example 1350 DS’s to handle the torque leverage of the 37’s?
With all of that as a backdrop, on to the plan:
Teraflex 2.5” coil lift
35x12.5-17
1” body lift
Superchips Traildash instead of the AEV Procal
Bushwacker Flares
Exhaust spacers, but concerned with skid plate interference.
If the AFE y-pipe is a better choice I would consider that
I really want the procomp 7005’s, or 7069’s in 17x9 however the backspacing is wrong and they will require spacers, which I’m hesitant to put on, so I may wind up with the mickey thompson classic III’s or Some Rugged Ridge wheels. Any input/warnings on spacers?
Interested in the AEV Geo Correction brackets for several reasons, any downside to these?
Bumpers, tire carrier, winch, air compressor all unchosen as of yet.
I see no need for steering upgrades yet, unless someone has some advice?
Would I benefit from RK "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges" at this height?
As soon as we plan a trip that will risk significant undercarriage contact, I’ll add a skidplate system like Synergy or Rock Hard, Whichever I choose, it’ll be a set/system that won’t be affected by the exhaust spacers
This Jeep will live at 80 mph on the freeway, so what I do with the front drive-shaft is critical to smooth running and reliability. If I can get away with doing nothing, great, since oem is well balanced out of the gate. The teraflex 2.5 gives f 3.1”/r 2.1” lift. Initially, the Jeep will not have aftermarket bumpers, or winch, or full skid system, or anything for up to a year in which it will gain up to 25k miles riding that high. So I’m a little concerned about the angles of a stock front DS. Please advise, and no the speed will not get slower, it just won’t, so if I need to spend money for reliability and peace of mind, I will.
If I need to get a J.E. Reel 1350 front, then do I need to request special balancing, or take it to a shop to make sure it’s up to par, or do they typically come well balanced?
So that’s about it for now, I feel like I’ve covered all the bases, and I’m hoping to proceed inside of about two months.
Thanks in advance for all input except any “Slow down jackass” comments )B>P
This will be my wife’s DD, our intent is to fit as many Jamborees/Events as we can each year, limited by work schedule, which is to say maybe 3-4 trips per year with some local weekend stuff sprinkled in.
What’s important to us is to retain as much mileage as we can, drivability, low maintenance, and an ability to do trails rated 1-6, with a possible 7 thrown in there if we’re feeling brave.
I really want 37’s but I know it’s impractical for us at this time, however with every dollar spent, I want to be prepared to put on 37’s at a moments notice without having to do anything other than mount the tires. As I understand it, I should be able to add a 1” body lift and flat fenders to make this happen. The goal here is to stay as low as possible while allowing 37’s.
I’m looking for critique of my planned build, is there anything I may have left out, any thoughts that may add to enjoyment, reliability, peace of mind? Future proofing suggestions, for example 1350 DS’s to handle the torque leverage of the 37’s?
With all of that as a backdrop, on to the plan:
Teraflex 2.5” coil lift
35x12.5-17
1” body lift
Superchips Traildash instead of the AEV Procal
Bushwacker Flares
Exhaust spacers, but concerned with skid plate interference.
If the AFE y-pipe is a better choice I would consider that
I really want the procomp 7005’s, or 7069’s in 17x9 however the backspacing is wrong and they will require spacers, which I’m hesitant to put on, so I may wind up with the mickey thompson classic III’s or Some Rugged Ridge wheels. Any input/warnings on spacers?
Interested in the AEV Geo Correction brackets for several reasons, any downside to these?
Bumpers, tire carrier, winch, air compressor all unchosen as of yet.
I see no need for steering upgrades yet, unless someone has some advice?
Would I benefit from RK "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges" at this height?
As soon as we plan a trip that will risk significant undercarriage contact, I’ll add a skidplate system like Synergy or Rock Hard, Whichever I choose, it’ll be a set/system that won’t be affected by the exhaust spacers
This Jeep will live at 80 mph on the freeway, so what I do with the front drive-shaft is critical to smooth running and reliability. If I can get away with doing nothing, great, since oem is well balanced out of the gate. The teraflex 2.5 gives f 3.1”/r 2.1” lift. Initially, the Jeep will not have aftermarket bumpers, or winch, or full skid system, or anything for up to a year in which it will gain up to 25k miles riding that high. So I’m a little concerned about the angles of a stock front DS. Please advise, and no the speed will not get slower, it just won’t, so if I need to spend money for reliability and peace of mind, I will.
If I need to get a J.E. Reel 1350 front, then do I need to request special balancing, or take it to a shop to make sure it’s up to par, or do they typically come well balanced?
So that’s about it for now, I feel like I’ve covered all the bases, and I’m hoping to proceed inside of about two months.
Thanks in advance for all input except any “Slow down jackass” comments )B>P
Last edited by LightEmUp; 06-20-2014 at 04:11 PM.
06-20-2014, 04:43 PM
#2
JK Jedi
Gears will be needed imo and will help on the driveshafts life as proper gearing will make it alot easier on the tranny/t-case/u-joints and yokes. They should come balanced also.
Spacers I wouldnt worry about they will be fine if you did run them.
Also i believe the stock skids are fine, id be more worried with axle shafts and axle strength issues on 37s. Id spends the money there...
Also may want to look into steering upgrades.
Id possibly ditch the body lift also if getting the teraflex that nets about 3. To me that lcog thing isnt 37s on ~4" lift...
Id also call the procall good and take the extra you would have spent on the trail dash for axle upgrades...
Get ready to cut a little to run 37s id say youll need to trim a little.
But hey thats just me.
Spacers I wouldnt worry about they will be fine if you did run them.
Also i believe the stock skids are fine, id be more worried with axle shafts and axle strength issues on 37s. Id spends the money there...
Also may want to look into steering upgrades.
Id possibly ditch the body lift also if getting the teraflex that nets about 3. To me that lcog thing isnt 37s on ~4" lift...
Id also call the procall good and take the extra you would have spent on the trail dash for axle upgrades...
Get ready to cut a little to run 37s id say youll need to trim a little.
But hey thats just me.
Last edited by Maertz; 06-20-2014 at 04:45 PM.
06-20-2014, 05:13 PM
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Hey all, just got a new ‘14 Rubicon 4door and I’ve been reading up on all the possibilities for it.
This will be my wife’s DD, our intent is to fit as many Jamborees/Events as we can each year, limited by work schedule, which is to say maybe 3-4 trips per year with some local weekend stuff sprinkled in.
What’s important to us is to retain as much mileage as we can, drivability, low maintenance, and an ability to do trails rated 1-6, with a possible 7 thrown in there if we’re feeling brave.
I really want 37’s but I know it’s impractical for us at this time, however with every dollar spent, I want to be prepared to put on 37’s at a moments notice without having to do anything other than mount the tires. As I understand it, I should be able to add a 1” body lift and flat fenders to make this happen. The goal here is to stay as low as possible while allowing 37’s.
I’m looking for critique of my planned build, is there anything I may have left out, any thoughts that may add to enjoyment, reliability, peace of mind? Future proofing suggestions, for example 1350 DS’s to handle the torque leverage of the 37’s?
With all of that as a backdrop, on to the plan:
Teraflex 2.5” coil lift
35x12.5-17
1” body lift
Superchips Traildash instead of the AEV Procal
Bushwacker Flares
Exhaust spacers, but concerned with skid plate interference.
If the AFE y-pipe is a better choice I would consider that
I really want the procomp 7005’s, or 7069’s in 17x9 however the backspacing is wrong and they will require spacers, which I’m hesitant to put on, so I may wind up with the mickey thompson classic III’s or Some Rugged Ridge wheels. Any input/warnings on spacers?
Interested in the AEV Geo Correction brackets for several reasons, any downside to these?
Bumpers, tire carrier, winch, air compressor all unchosen as of yet.
I see no need for steering upgrades yet, unless someone has some advice?
Would I benefit from RK "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges" at this height?
As soon as we plan a trip that will risk significant undercarriage contact, I’ll add a skidplate system like Synergy or Rock Hard, Whichever I choose, it’ll be a set/system that won’t be affected by the exhaust spacers
This Jeep will live at 80 mph on the freeway, so what I do with the front drive-shaft is critical to smooth running and reliability. If I can get away with doing nothing, great, since oem is well balanced out of the gate. The teraflex 2.5 gives f 3.1”/r 2.1” lift. Initially, the Jeep will not have aftermarket bumpers, or winch, or full skid system, or anything for up to a year in which it will gain up to 25k miles riding that high. So I’m a little concerned about the angles of a stock front DS. Please advise, and no the speed will not get slower, it just won’t, so if I need to spend money for reliability and peace of mind, I will.
If I need to get a J.E. Reel 1350 front, then do I need to request special balancing, or take it to a shop to make sure it’s up to par, or do they typically come well balanced?
So that’s about it for now, I feel like I’ve covered all the bases, and I’m hoping to proceed inside of about two months.
Thanks in advance for all input except any “Slow down jackass” comments )B>P
This will be my wife’s DD, our intent is to fit as many Jamborees/Events as we can each year, limited by work schedule, which is to say maybe 3-4 trips per year with some local weekend stuff sprinkled in.
What’s important to us is to retain as much mileage as we can, drivability, low maintenance, and an ability to do trails rated 1-6, with a possible 7 thrown in there if we’re feeling brave.
I really want 37’s but I know it’s impractical for us at this time, however with every dollar spent, I want to be prepared to put on 37’s at a moments notice without having to do anything other than mount the tires. As I understand it, I should be able to add a 1” body lift and flat fenders to make this happen. The goal here is to stay as low as possible while allowing 37’s.
I’m looking for critique of my planned build, is there anything I may have left out, any thoughts that may add to enjoyment, reliability, peace of mind? Future proofing suggestions, for example 1350 DS’s to handle the torque leverage of the 37’s?
With all of that as a backdrop, on to the plan:
Teraflex 2.5” coil lift
35x12.5-17
1” body lift
Superchips Traildash instead of the AEV Procal
Bushwacker Flares
Exhaust spacers, but concerned with skid plate interference.
If the AFE y-pipe is a better choice I would consider that
I really want the procomp 7005’s, or 7069’s in 17x9 however the backspacing is wrong and they will require spacers, which I’m hesitant to put on, so I may wind up with the mickey thompson classic III’s or Some Rugged Ridge wheels. Any input/warnings on spacers?
Interested in the AEV Geo Correction brackets for several reasons, any downside to these?
Bumpers, tire carrier, winch, air compressor all unchosen as of yet.
I see no need for steering upgrades yet, unless someone has some advice?
Would I benefit from RK "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges" at this height?
As soon as we plan a trip that will risk significant undercarriage contact, I’ll add a skidplate system like Synergy or Rock Hard, Whichever I choose, it’ll be a set/system that won’t be affected by the exhaust spacers
This Jeep will live at 80 mph on the freeway, so what I do with the front drive-shaft is critical to smooth running and reliability. If I can get away with doing nothing, great, since oem is well balanced out of the gate. The teraflex 2.5 gives f 3.1”/r 2.1” lift. Initially, the Jeep will not have aftermarket bumpers, or winch, or full skid system, or anything for up to a year in which it will gain up to 25k miles riding that high. So I’m a little concerned about the angles of a stock front DS. Please advise, and no the speed will not get slower, it just won’t, so if I need to spend money for reliability and peace of mind, I will.
If I need to get a J.E. Reel 1350 front, then do I need to request special balancing, or take it to a shop to make sure it’s up to par, or do they typically come well balanced?
So that’s about it for now, I feel like I’ve covered all the bases, and I’m hoping to proceed inside of about two months.
Thanks in advance for all input except any “Slow down jackass” comments )B>P
Sounds like your building a dedicated trail rig... that's not a bad thing, but 37's on a DD and will be at 80MPH sounds like a gas hog to me, which is what you don't want. You WILL need to Re-gear the Diff's for 35's to maintain a decent gas mileage, you should probably invest in sleeves and a Truss for the front Diff and eventually axles too. Everything else look right on parity what your wanting to do with the jeep. If I were you I'd look into buying a truck and trailer to haul the jeep, it's more practical if you guys are going to be going to different events around the county. Nothing worst then breaking something and being stranded, waiting for a fix from a local shop or dealership.
I just recently went from 33's to 35's, still on stock gears (3.73) and I went from 15MPG to 12MPH lol. The jeep struggles to do 80 so I keep her at 70 on the Hwy to avoid over heating the transmission. I'm also running an external Transmission cooler with a 8" slim fan to keep the transmission from over heating on the trails. It's really sluggish when taking off from a stop, I will be ordering my gears at the 1st of the month (5.13) this will get rid of the sluggish feel and help on the Hwy. I drive my jeep about 150 miles a week so it's not a big deal but the wife hates driving it because it's "slow"... Duh is a brick on wheels
06-20-2014, 06:20 PM
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Gears will be needed imo and will help on the driveshafts life as proper gearing will make it alot easier on the tranny/t-case/u-joints and yokes. They should come balanced also.
Spacers I wouldnt worry about they will be fine if you did run them.
Also i believe the stock skids are fine, id be more worried with axle shafts and axle strength issues on 37s. Id spends the money there...
Also may want to look into steering upgrades.
Id possibly ditch the body lift also if getting the teraflex that nets about 3. To me that lcog thing isnt 37s on ~4" lift...
Id also call the procall good and take the extra you would have spent on the trail dash for axle upgrades...
Get ready to cut a little to run 37s id say youll need to trim a little.
But hey thats just me.
Spacers I wouldnt worry about they will be fine if you did run them.
Also i believe the stock skids are fine, id be more worried with axle shafts and axle strength issues on 37s. Id spends the money there...
Also may want to look into steering upgrades.
Id possibly ditch the body lift also if getting the teraflex that nets about 3. To me that lcog thing isnt 37s on ~4" lift...
Id also call the procall good and take the extra you would have spent on the trail dash for axle upgrades...
Get ready to cut a little to run 37s id say youll need to trim a little.
But hey thats just me.
I expected to trim a little if I ever put on 37s. no prob there.
Crap, when I bought the jeep a few weeks ago, I had given up on the 37s as an option because once you lift the height necessary for full wheel tuck/articulation, it meant lots more invested to fix all the issues created by the lift. So I no longer felt compelled to buy the 4.10 option and went 3.73s since I was gonna go with 35's.
Later, after purchase I read the RK site stating it WAS possible to run 37s on a 2.5" with flat fenders on their Stock Mod lift, and figured if the RK can do it, then why not the TF lift too. That's when I allowed myself to consider 37s again. with all this in mind, I referenced the two images below and figured, I'm fine since at 75+mph, I'll be in the torque sweet spot right around 2k rpm with a flat 250tq all the way up the rpm range.
So #1 am I overly optimistic about the 2.5" ability to stuff 37s?
and #2 Am I mistaken about my power calcs as a matter of practicality?. I know that often data alone does not reflect real world results with perfect accuracy when so many variables can exist.
#3 Never considered how gearing might affect tranny/t-case/u-joints and yokes, I'll read up on that.
I'll not rule out spacers.
Thought that a 2.5" lift was too low to worry about steering/trackbar geometry. At some point I expect to put on the bumpers and winch and lots more weight bringing it closer to advertised lift height, I'll read more on that.
06-20-2014, 06:38 PM
#5
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Sounds like your building a dedicated trail rig... that's not a bad thing, but 37's on a DD and will be at 80MPH sounds like a gas hog to me, which is what you don't want. You WILL need to Re-gear the Diff's for 35's to maintain a decent gas mileage, you should probably invest in sleeves and a Truss for the front Diff and eventually axles too. Everything else look right on parity what your wanting to do with the jeep. If I were you I'd look into buying a truck and trailer to haul the jeep, it's more practical if you guys are going to be going to different events around the county. Nothing worst then breaking something and being stranded, waiting for a fix from a local shop or dealership.
I just recently went from 33's to 35's, still on stock gears (3.73) and I went from 15MPG to 12MPH lol. The jeep struggles to do 80 so I keep her at 70 on the Hwy to avoid over heating the transmission. I'm also running an external Transmission cooler with a 8" slim fan to keep the transmission from over heating on the trails. It's really sluggish when taking off from a stop, I will be ordering my gears at the 1st of the month (5.13) this will get rid of the sluggish feel and help on the Hwy. I drive my jeep about 150 miles a week so it's not a big deal but the wife hates driving it because it's "slow"... Duh is a brick on wheels
I just recently went from 33's to 35's, still on stock gears (3.73) and I went from 15MPG to 12MPH lol. The jeep struggles to do 80 so I keep her at 70 on the Hwy to avoid over heating the transmission. I'm also running an external Transmission cooler with a 8" slim fan to keep the transmission from over heating on the trails. It's really sluggish when taking off from a stop, I will be ordering my gears at the 1st of the month (5.13) this will get rid of the sluggish feel and help on the Hwy. I drive my jeep about 150 miles a week so it's not a big deal but the wife hates driving it because it's "slow"... Duh is a brick on wheels
These are the things I needed to hear and consider. Regarding us towing to events, that was the exact plan to be executed in the next couple of years. The hope is we'll get a motor-home and put this on a trailer, I'm beginning to feel that maybe I should stay with 35's for now until we are ready to tow, and if this "Jeep thing" becomes all that we think and hope it will, then maybe get a little more aggressive with it. I'll read up some more on potential costs to do it all correctly the first time.
I won't rule out 37s yet, but I'm now leaning back towards 35s.
P.S. you runing the 3.8 or 3.6 motor?
06-20-2014, 07:01 PM
#6
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Another of Planmans threads, with good info to browse through:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...n-lift-260148/
Go ahead and price the heavier duty steering components, balljoints, the front housing gussets/sleeves/truss, alloy shafts, and the gears - just so you have an idea of the costs for if/when.
What backspacing are you considering?
There are quite a few threads on wheel spacers. The general concensus is that, IF installed and maintained correctly, no worries.
If you don't install correctly, or can't be bothered to maintain them ...
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ue-duh-304598/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...n-lift-260148/
Go ahead and price the heavier duty steering components, balljoints, the front housing gussets/sleeves/truss, alloy shafts, and the gears - just so you have an idea of the costs for if/when.
What backspacing are you considering?
There are quite a few threads on wheel spacers. The general concensus is that, IF installed and maintained correctly, no worries.
If you don't install correctly, or can't be bothered to maintain them ...
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ue-duh-304598/
Trending Topics
06-20-2014, 08:24 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Another of Planmans threads, with good info to browse through:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...n-lift-260148/
Go ahead and price the heavier duty steering components, balljoints, the front housing gussets/sleeves/truss, alloy shafts, and the gears - just so you have an idea of the costs for if/when.
What backspacing are you considering?
There are quite a few threads on wheel spacers. The general concensus is that, IF installed and maintained correctly, no worries.
If you don't install correctly, or can't be bothered to maintain them ...
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ue-duh-304598/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...n-lift-260148/
Go ahead and price the heavier duty steering components, balljoints, the front housing gussets/sleeves/truss, alloy shafts, and the gears - just so you have an idea of the costs for if/when.
What backspacing are you considering?
There are quite a few threads on wheel spacers. The general concensus is that, IF installed and maintained correctly, no worries.
If you don't install correctly, or can't be bothered to maintain them ...
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ue-duh-304598/
06-20-2014, 08:27 PM
#9
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No decisions yet, just leaning towards a "35 only" setup for the near term. I'll keep reading and poking you guys for info over the next few days.
Regarding the body lift specifically, when reading the RK site they didn't mention any need for a body lift, but through other reads, I figured it might be good insurance at minimal cost to achieve full no rub articulation with the 37s.
Regarding the body lift specifically, when reading the RK site they didn't mention any need for a body lift, but through other reads, I figured it might be good insurance at minimal cost to achieve full no rub articulation with the 37s.
Last edited by LightEmUp; 06-20-2014 at 08:32 PM.
06-20-2014, 09:45 PM
#10
JK Enthusiast
Hey all, just got a new ‘14 Rubicon 4door and I’ve been reading up on all the possibilities for it.
This will be my wife’s DD, our intent is to fit as many Jamborees/Events as we can each year, limited by work schedule, which is to say maybe 3-4 trips per year with some local weekend stuff sprinkled in.
What’s important to us is to retain as much mileage as we can, drivability, low maintenance, and an ability to do trails rated 1-6, with a possible 7 thrown in there if we’re feeling brave.
I really want 37’s but I know it’s impractical for us at this time, however with every dollar spent, I want to be prepared to put on 37’s at a moments notice without having to do anything other than mount the tires. As I understand it, I should be able to add a 1” body lift and flat fenders to make this happen. The goal here is to stay as low as possible while allowing 37’s.
I’m looking for critique of my planned build, is there anything I may have left out, any thoughts that may add to enjoyment, reliability, peace of mind? Future proofing suggestions, for example 1350 DS’s to handle the torque leverage of the 37’s?
With all of that as a backdrop, on to the plan:
Teraflex 2.5” coil lift
35x12.5-17
1” body lift
Superchips Traildash instead of the AEV Procal
Bushwacker Flares
Exhaust spacers, but concerned with skid plate interference.
If the AFE y-pipe is a better choice I would consider that
I really want the procomp 7005’s, or 7069’s in 17x9 however the backspacing is wrong and they will require spacers, which I’m hesitant to put on, so I may wind up with the mickey thompson classic III’s or Some Rugged Ridge wheels. Any input/warnings on spacers?
Interested in the AEV Geo Correction brackets for several reasons, any downside to these?
Bumpers, tire carrier, winch, air compressor all unchosen as of yet.
I see no need for steering upgrades yet, unless someone has some advice?
Would I benefit from RK "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges" at this height?
As soon as we plan a trip that will risk significant undercarriage contact, I’ll add a skidplate system like Synergy or Rock Hard, Whichever I choose, it’ll be a set/system that won’t be affected by the exhaust spacers
This Jeep will live at 80 mph on the freeway, so what I do with the front drive-shaft is critical to smooth running and reliability. If I can get away with doing nothing, great, since oem is well balanced out of the gate. The teraflex 2.5 gives f 3.1”/r 2.1” lift. Initially, the Jeep will not have aftermarket bumpers, or winch, or full skid system, or anything for up to a year in which it will gain up to 25k miles riding that high. So I’m a little concerned about the angles of a stock front DS. Please advise, and no the speed will not get slower, it just won’t, so if I need to spend money for reliability and peace of mind, I will.
If I need to get a J.E. Reel 1350 front, then do I need to request special balancing, or take it to a shop to make sure it’s up to par, or do they typically come well balanced?
So that’s about it for now, I feel like I’ve covered all the bases, and I’m hoping to proceed inside of about two months.
Thanks in advance for all input except any “Slow down jackass” comments )B>P
This will be my wife’s DD, our intent is to fit as many Jamborees/Events as we can each year, limited by work schedule, which is to say maybe 3-4 trips per year with some local weekend stuff sprinkled in.
What’s important to us is to retain as much mileage as we can, drivability, low maintenance, and an ability to do trails rated 1-6, with a possible 7 thrown in there if we’re feeling brave.
I really want 37’s but I know it’s impractical for us at this time, however with every dollar spent, I want to be prepared to put on 37’s at a moments notice without having to do anything other than mount the tires. As I understand it, I should be able to add a 1” body lift and flat fenders to make this happen. The goal here is to stay as low as possible while allowing 37’s.
I’m looking for critique of my planned build, is there anything I may have left out, any thoughts that may add to enjoyment, reliability, peace of mind? Future proofing suggestions, for example 1350 DS’s to handle the torque leverage of the 37’s?
With all of that as a backdrop, on to the plan:
Teraflex 2.5” coil lift
35x12.5-17
1” body lift
Superchips Traildash instead of the AEV Procal
Bushwacker Flares
Exhaust spacers, but concerned with skid plate interference.
If the AFE y-pipe is a better choice I would consider that
I really want the procomp 7005’s, or 7069’s in 17x9 however the backspacing is wrong and they will require spacers, which I’m hesitant to put on, so I may wind up with the mickey thompson classic III’s or Some Rugged Ridge wheels. Any input/warnings on spacers?
Interested in the AEV Geo Correction brackets for several reasons, any downside to these?
Bumpers, tire carrier, winch, air compressor all unchosen as of yet.
I see no need for steering upgrades yet, unless someone has some advice?
Would I benefit from RK "Rear Coil Spring Correction Wedges" at this height?
As soon as we plan a trip that will risk significant undercarriage contact, I’ll add a skidplate system like Synergy or Rock Hard, Whichever I choose, it’ll be a set/system that won’t be affected by the exhaust spacers
This Jeep will live at 80 mph on the freeway, so what I do with the front drive-shaft is critical to smooth running and reliability. If I can get away with doing nothing, great, since oem is well balanced out of the gate. The teraflex 2.5 gives f 3.1”/r 2.1” lift. Initially, the Jeep will not have aftermarket bumpers, or winch, or full skid system, or anything for up to a year in which it will gain up to 25k miles riding that high. So I’m a little concerned about the angles of a stock front DS. Please advise, and no the speed will not get slower, it just won’t, so if I need to spend money for reliability and peace of mind, I will.
If I need to get a J.E. Reel 1350 front, then do I need to request special balancing, or take it to a shop to make sure it’s up to par, or do they typically come well balanced?
So that’s about it for now, I feel like I’ve covered all the bases, and I’m hoping to proceed inside of about two months.
Thanks in advance for all input except any “Slow down jackass” comments )B>P
1. Gas mileage and mods are completely contradictory. Your gas mileage will suck.
2. If you are going to do any rock trails that are narrow or require you to squeeze by objects, Bushwhackers suck. I pulled mine off after damaging them.
3. Exhaust spacers will interfere with any engine skid, especially if you get rocks and mud stuck up there. Id get rocks wedged between the exhaust and skid driving me crazy because of the rattling. I had a custom muffler shot redo my exhaust system for cheaper than the aftermarket systems. They totally clearanced the crossover while giving me driveshaft clearance.
4. Wheel spacers work. Torque then down and don't sweat it.
5. I bought the correction wedges, but didn't need them on my 3.5 Metalcloak lift. I suspect they are needed more for RK lifts which push the axle back.