a member to this site for about as long as ive owned my new 09 JK 4 Dr Rubicon, which to say the least is a week now. I think i have all but worn out the search function and my brain cannot absorb anymore. Nothing of mine stays stock as I have a 08 Dodge quad cab Diesel that was stock for all of two weeks before it got lifted 35s, 5"exuast etc. This isnt a dodge forum so enough of that. Back to the Jk, I want to run a 35" tire and have all but decided that 3"or 4" is the way i want to go. Havent decided on which manufacturer yet, FT/Tera/RE. I will be doing some mild/moderate wheelin nothing to extreme yet. My jk is a 6 sp manual and my main question is will i need driveshafts. I have read with the auto you do but didnt really see anything regarding manual tranny's. Maybe i missed it somewhere when my eyes went blurry from all the info. Anyway any info is appreciated.

 

You sound like me. My brain is numb and my eyes hurt from reading all these posts. Im trying to get it right the first time around.

 

this might help...

Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...272#post211272

 

Let me know if I can be of any help. You can download the 2009 TeraFlex catalog from the link in my sig line below. Welcome to the forum!

 

Thanks MMO, i do remember reading that now. I just need to decide on what lift/manufacter to go with now.

 

So a Body lift doesnt effect the drive shafts issue? Good to know.... Now to find a pic of Frame mounted Rock Rails with a body lift (installing LOD ones this weekend).... Need to see if 1" or so would look funny or not

 

Its not a main concern mine just trying to get all my ducts in a row as to what what i need before i spend the money and end up needing other parts to make it functional. Just dont want to half ass it, if you know what i mean.

 

As far as driveshafts, aside from what has already been discussed, the best answer is that you will need new shafts eventually depending on how hard you wheel. With a 4 door like yours, you can get away with 4" of lift and no shafts but need to be careful. Also if its an automatic, the shaft may hit the skid plate. A bunch of people on here had to notch the skid plate to get everything right.

I just got back from the shop that is going to install my lift and they said basically I won't need driveshafts till the boot tears. Basically, don't fix what ain't broke
That being said, I have a 2 door and with 4" of lift I'm not going to push it hard off road for a while.

The main advantage of getting aftermarket driveshafts with U joints is that if a U joint blows out or breaks, alot of manufacturers allow you to just replace the U joint., as opposed to our stock JKs, with the CV joint, once its shot, you need to replace the shaft. Also, aftermarket shafts tend to be stronger and thinner.

Hope this helps

 

Keep your center of gravity low.

In my honest opinion, get a 2.5"-3" lift (TF 2.5" coils or OME HD) and stuff the 35s. If you're not against chopping a little, cut the factory flares so you can stuff without rubbing.

With 3" of lift, you won't need driveshafts.