So confused...
#1
So confused...
I have a 13' JKU. I am wanting a small lift, just to be able to run 33's. My goal is not height, as it is more about clearance and increase in loading weight. I have read and read, and cannot find my answers I need. Im hoping someone here can help. Can I put in the OME springs (either Medium or HD), as a direct replacement without changing shocks, track bar, swar bar extensions, etc. Can I just swap springs, or do I need all of the other "stuff' also? Any help is greatly appreciated.
#2
If it's not the Rubicon, you might as well change shocks. If you are looking at OME, just get their 2", if you are open to other brands there are a ton of options. For 33's you don't need anything, but if you want to carry more weight there are a bunch of ways to go about it without adding height. I think this is where budget and what you plan on doing with the vehicle come in to play.
#3
It is not a Rubicon, it’s a Sahara. I’m not want a rock crawler. My goal are more expedition/long trip oriented. As far as budget, I want to spend as little as necessary but want to do it right without breaking the bank.
#4
Go with the TF leveling kit
http://m.quadratec.com/products/prod...=16190+1100+07
Or just go with new coils
http://m.quadratec.com/products/prod...=16090+4034+07
http://m.quadratec.com/products/prod...=16190+1100+07
Or just go with new coils
http://m.quadratec.com/products/prod...=16090+4034+07
#5
Yes, you could keep your stock shocks, but they'd be almost fully extended and could cause early wear. Just get the OME springs and shock extensions. The extentions works great and cost maybe $80 (essentially a 2" spacer bracket). Problem solved.
You don't need anything else at 2" of lift. If you plan to go off road, probably not a bad idea to get rear drop brackets for the brake lines (probably make some yourself for nothing, or order some from Teraflex for $10).
I'll defer the question about sway bar links to someone else. My thought is that it is good insurance to avoid flipping a sway bar and causing damage (but just get some cheap, fixed length links, which I am sure someone has a set laying around used for a cheap price).
You don't need anything else at 2" of lift. If you plan to go off road, probably not a bad idea to get rear drop brackets for the brake lines (probably make some yourself for nothing, or order some from Teraflex for $10).
I'll defer the question about sway bar links to someone else. My thought is that it is good insurance to avoid flipping a sway bar and causing damage (but just get some cheap, fixed length links, which I am sure someone has a set laying around used for a cheap price).
#7
I have the OME rear springs and they work very well when the Jeep is fully loaded. I had RK before and the Jeep was squatting when loaded. Good investment. Not much help with the other info though as mine is lifted.
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#8
"Doing it right" will depend on who you ask, and will also depend on the purpose. Here's my opinion, and it's just an opinion. Your lift is where the money is. To fit larger tires and get some additional ground clearance in a vehicle that you're using to long-haul on expeditions and overland trips, you want the absolute best in both on- and off- road performance. You'll be carrying heavier loads for a long distance on a mix of terrain, and for the rest of the week, the Jeep is probably on road and going to work and other places with you.
It starts with springs. To match the additional height, you'll need shock extensions, but preferably new, longer shocks. The longer shocks will eliminate the extensions, but you'd likely also pick out a stiffer shock to keep the vehicle more composed with stiffer springs and heavier loads. The track bar and other pieces bring the axles and tires and steering back to optimal angles. To do it cheaply and forget those pieces means compromised performance (worse than stock) and can present safety issues as well. I think it's advisable to do a full suspension lift, new shocks, new springs, track bar, swaybar end links, AND lower control arm geometry correction brackets. You only want to lift once, and you want to do it right, and you're presumably doing it for the life of the vehicle. IMO, it's money well-spent and there is not only a visual appearance, but a huge difference in performance between cheaply done lifts (random pieces, puck and spacer lifts, etc) and a full suspension lift. YOu want the vehicle to articulate well, you want it to carry additional gear and equipment without additional bounce or suspension sag, you want it to track correctly and predictable on the highway, you want less roll in the corners, and least important, but most noticeably-- you want the Jeep to look and feel awesome. IMO the only way to do that is by putting money into a lift. In my experience it's well worth it.
#9
I'm 99% sure you can't do a lift with just taller springs. At the very least, you'll need shock extensions and swaybar endlinks.
"Doing it right" will depend on who you ask, and will also depend on the purpose. Here's my opinion, and it's just an opinion. Your lift is where the money is. To fit larger tires and get some additional ground clearance in a vehicle that you're using to long-haul on expeditions and overland trips, you want the absolute best in both on- and off- road performance. You'll be carrying heavier loads for a long distance on a mix of terrain, and for the rest of the week, the Jeep is probably on road and going to work and other places with you.
It starts with springs. To match the additional height, you'll need shock extensions, but preferably new, longer shocks. The longer shocks will eliminate the extensions, but you'd likely also pick out a stiffer shock to keep the vehicle more composed with stiffer springs and heavier loads. The track bar and other pieces bring the axles and tires and steering back to optimal angles. To do it cheaply and forget those pieces means compromised performance (worse than stock) and can present safety issues as well. I think it's advisable to do a full suspension lift, new shocks, new springs, track bar, swaybar end links, AND lower control arm geometry correction brackets. You only want to lift once, and you want to do it right, and you're presumably doing it for the life of the vehicle. IMO, it's money well-spent and there is not only a visual appearance, but a huge difference in performance between cheaply done lifts (random pieces, puck and spacer lifts, etc) and a full suspension lift. YOu want the vehicle to articulate well, you want it to carry additional gear and equipment without additional bounce or suspension sag, you want it to track correctly and predictable on the highway, you want less roll in the corners, and least important, but most noticeably-- you want the Jeep to look and feel awesome. IMO the only way to do that is by putting money into a lift. In my experience it's well worth it.
"Doing it right" will depend on who you ask, and will also depend on the purpose. Here's my opinion, and it's just an opinion. Your lift is where the money is. To fit larger tires and get some additional ground clearance in a vehicle that you're using to long-haul on expeditions and overland trips, you want the absolute best in both on- and off- road performance. You'll be carrying heavier loads for a long distance on a mix of terrain, and for the rest of the week, the Jeep is probably on road and going to work and other places with you.
It starts with springs. To match the additional height, you'll need shock extensions, but preferably new, longer shocks. The longer shocks will eliminate the extensions, but you'd likely also pick out a stiffer shock to keep the vehicle more composed with stiffer springs and heavier loads. The track bar and other pieces bring the axles and tires and steering back to optimal angles. To do it cheaply and forget those pieces means compromised performance (worse than stock) and can present safety issues as well. I think it's advisable to do a full suspension lift, new shocks, new springs, track bar, swaybar end links, AND lower control arm geometry correction brackets. You only want to lift once, and you want to do it right, and you're presumably doing it for the life of the vehicle. IMO, it's money well-spent and there is not only a visual appearance, but a huge difference in performance between cheaply done lifts (random pieces, puck and spacer lifts, etc) and a full suspension lift. YOu want the vehicle to articulate well, you want it to carry additional gear and equipment without additional bounce or suspension sag, you want it to track correctly and predictable on the highway, you want less roll in the corners, and least important, but most noticeably-- you want the Jeep to look and feel awesome. IMO the only way to do that is by putting money into a lift. In my experience it's well worth it.
#10
I wouldn't worry about end links or track bars at sub 2", especially if he is going to be running extra weight. He will likely be lower than a 2 door with 4 door springs. You will want some nice springs and shocks to control sway and carry the weight. The sport springs are not up to this duty. The stock springs will not dampen the stiffer springs needed to carry the extra weight also. I would say if you want a tried and true basic suspension upgrade for carrying added weight, the OME is a great option. If you were going to stay around stock weight, spacers would probably be fine. There are other options, but that's part of why you are confused.
Last edited by ballsdeep; 11-22-2013 at 09:40 AM.