Invest2m4

Here you go: Crate Axles. Axle Assembly made by Mopar. #P5160036

It is listed in the mopar catalog, so any place that can sell mopar should be able to get it. Everything is the same as the rubi axle except the tubes are a thicker wall. The tubes are .375" vs. .250" for the standard housing. For the price, it is a pretty good way to upgrade the housing. It can also be trussed with any D44 truss. If you can break that, it is time for a big boy axle.

MOPWR2U

I sold my Dana 30 axle, complete with all internal parts, outer axles, bearings, ball joints, brakes, the whole enchilada, for $200. It only had 74 miles of street use on it, and had never been in 4 wheel drive. And it took two months to find someone to buy it at that price. Dana 30s are a dime a dozen.

nthinuf

Yeah, it was late. I threw it up there just to stir things up.



As mentioned once or twice in that thread I linked, the sleeves did stop the housing from breaking at the normal location, where yours broke. But since the housing couldn't shatter there, it simply moved the break area down to where the sleeve ended, right near the diff.

Post 40 - the sleeved housing break
Post 59, 68 - eddies opinion on post 40, for what it's worth...


And for those who want to jump in with "but I'm not a hard-core wheeler!!!, I'll be ok!!!" (this is on the street with stock tires...)
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...e-help-161915/



But, folks, this isn't a huge problem that each and every one of us is going to run into. it is just something to be aware of, good to know info so you can at least make some informed decisions...

james&jess

I would sell my d44 for 250 for the housing

scafootballpro5

Alright thanks man! This may be in my near future. If I buy just the housing I would be able to keep everything else from a D30 correct? I would regear to 4.56 if I did but I could still keep the shafts and rotors with 5x5 bolt pattern?

Invest2m4

Hmm, I'd say no. You'd need a different carrier and I'm not sure there is any option that does not include a locker as the center section is specific to the Jeeps. So, I'd guess you need locker and inner axle shafts.

lkjk

If this is really the case wouldn't it be cheaper to just sleeve? I understand it's not gonna be 1:1 strength but pretty close, especially if they are weld in

Maertz

Sleeves do nothing where the tubes are pressed in and plug welded at the dif. Parts wise truss makes alot more since cost wise. They also offer support for the weak factory arm mounts and such also on some options. Some sleeves also limit axles shafts wich to me doesn't matter as none are a true 35 spline like a d60 to my understanding. This dude needs a replacement at this point, sleeves are to late.

McKinney

From what I have learned you need to truss it and avoid sleeves. If you break an axle shaft in a way this is too much twist the OD of the shaft will be greater than the ID of the sleeve leaving it a bitch to get out!

Artech Truss with outer C gussets and control arm skids is what I did on my front axle before I put bigger tires and wheeled it. Did the lift and axle at the same time.

Hopefully you got it off the trail OK. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure

lkjk

Yea, I know trusses are better than sleeves, no question.

My question is more - why would anyone buy that axle as an upgrade, assuming they didn't need it in a pinch like this.

The only reason I went sleeves over truss is install cost, night and day, although eventually i'll get a truss