Paint, if you wheel. The powder coat will scratch, if it's painted do a little touch up.

 

Mine finally came in. I powdercoated my front bumper but I think I'm going paint on the VKS. Easier to touch up that way. I tried touching up the scratches on my bumper and it looks like ass. So yeah, if you're expecting a lot of scratches, I say paint it also...

 

Good choice, Great deal. I'm going to Get LOD rock sliders, Hopefully in a few months. I'm trying to convince my wife to get me a Eaton E locker 4 pinion Dana 44 Rear locker as a gift for 5 years of marriage coming up on Jan 15th

 

Got mine in too. Man tough painting over such beautiful work.

 

Yeah I hear you man. Wondered if it could just be clearcoated. That's why I really like my Genright bumper & carrier. The welds really set it off and they're aluminum also so I can keep them bare.

I actually did the VKS test fit on mine today also lol. Still on there. Was going to do the other side but noticed we're going to have to drill the hole for the main underside bolt on the rear leg. VKS provided the bolt & washer but no nut? It's not a self tapping bolt so I'm wondering what's up with that...

 

Merry Christmas

You need a 29/64 drill and 1/2-20 tap for the large bolt (i ordered from Amazon)

The self threaders are 3/8 by i believe 16
He calls for a 21/64 or "R" drill bit but i Used 5/16 for the swaybar which used the same bolts.

Good luck

 

Awesome man. I didn't get any instructions with mine (or at least didn't see any) so thanks for the heads up.

**edit**
caught the other thread on JKO, so for a heads up on anyone else getting these....
1. 29/64 drill bit and 1/2-20 tap for the large underside bolt for the rear leg (of the passenger side slider for at least the 2 door)

2. For the self-tapping screws (8 per each slider) you can use an "R" (0.3390) drill bit BUT if you want a little more bite from the self-tappers, go with a smaller 21/64 (0.328) bit instead. Of course, start with a step-bit to make it easy on yourself. Use of a 5.5"/6" bit extension recommended for the top screws as it's cramped/tight space drilling....

You're welcome!

 

It's funny, I have yet to hear about someone who did receive instructions with their VKS product. I didn't get any with my bumper. My buddy just got a bumper and didn't get any. If you email Vick he'll send them over though. Turns out the instructions for the front bumper changed quite a bit, so it was a good thing my buddy didn't follow my older version.

 

So it isn't just me thinking he was losing his mind tearing up half the garage looking for a set of instructions that didn't exist in the first place then LOL...

Great product VKS. Just needs some simple instructions is all!

 

I ran into another issue. Seems to be only with early JK's. On my drivers side theres a u-shaped piece of metal that wraps the frame. Bolting up the leg would leave a gap. I posted for advice but ended up trying to grind it off. Then discovered the damn nut is welded to it. Underneath theres a larger hole.

I finished grinding the front face flat to seat the leg. Monday im going to have the underside welded back up. Heres some pics including one of a newer 2 door without this u-shaped chuck of Bs.

First issue, the front 2 lower mounting points on my JK not used (auto trans skid maybe ? ) VKS doesnt supply bolts for these so i had to search for 2 12mx1.5x40.0 stock bolts and a thread chaser.

I had 3 weeks to get everything together. Taps, step drills, extensions for the step bits, etc. 1 warm day to pre-fit/install before paint. Well that Turned to crap.

Ps the 16 frame bolts are 3/8, and HF sells a step bit with longer sections to clear the thickness of the frame (5/16 will work with a 3/8 tap)

Totally not VKS's fault, i hope a note is made on their site "early JK's will need to grind/weld and source 2 bolts along with the drills taps already discussed"
Edit: i found out the JK's shock and swaybar bolts will work, Just need to be cut down.