roscoj

I would like to gather a few opinions on skid plate choices. Ideally I would like to do the entire bottom of the jk but it seems a little overkill, heavy, and expensive.

I have a 2014 unlimited jk auto. The way I have the exhaust routed it looks as though my options are limited. Due to weight if I did a whole skid system I would want aluminum. My favorites are artec and rock hard. Both are comparable in price. It looks as though the artec is possibly built a little stronger with there bracing and comes with a free crossmember. I see a lot of reviews of happy customers with rock hard but artec's skids are still relatively new and it seems not a lot of people are not running this set up.
I feel these kits are worth the money at around 1400 but part of me is saying just get the rock hard steel oil and trans skid (around 400)and keep the transfer case and gas skids stock.
My gas skid has taken a couple hits. My trans crossmember has a few small dings in it. I've feel I've been pretty lucky so far with nothing over my transmission and with wheeling season is coming into full swing. I really want to get some sort of protection at least where I need it.

Thoughts?
Opinions?
Reviews?

The OGB

Same situation here. Leaning towards Artec for some reason.

JK-jeepit

The tranny/oil pan skid could be enough for you I would only do a gas skid if you are going to be doing a lot of rocks and see your self hanging up on the gas skid a lot. It holds up good. I did the rock hard over the OEM gas skid because I do hang up on ledges and rocks a lot. The other skids do a great job.

LHC30

Depends on how you wheel. I have a 13 JKUR that I run in Calico, Big Bear, Rubicon etc and have beat up the stock skids a lot. Generally, the stock stuff is great and sufficient to protect things. Even after the Rubicon, I didnt have any nicks on or near the trans pan or oil pan. Everything else, including destroying the stock evap skid, showed wear.

So, since I have decided to stay with a 2 1/2" lift and 35's, I chose to armor the underneath so I can slide over stuff and keep going. First under armor was an AEV rear Diff skid - absolutely a key piece. It protects not only the diff, but the pinion and u-joint as well as providing some covering of the stock rear diff cover lip, but allows the rig to slide over rocks it hits. Although I went with Poison Spyder diff covers front and rear, the AEV skid ROCKS!

My stock fuel tank skid was so beaten up, I was probably losing about one or two gallons of capacity . RockHard was suggested but I ended up with Synergy. Their steel is harder so rocks dont dig into it and keep ya from sliding over the rocks. It also REPLACES the stock skid allowing less loss of clearance. Scratched the powder coat a little on the Rubicon, but actually dented it on John Bull in Big Bear

I kept the under belly stuff Synergy and it fits and works very well. The evap canister it Poison Spyder.

I like the weight savings of aluminum, but in talking to friends who know metal, said unless you get very expensive Aluminum, rocks will likely dig into the soft metal, causing more friction and damage - i.e. less likely to "slide" over the rocks.

I hope that is helpfu.

roscoj

Another thought I just had is greasing the driveline.
With the stock transfer case skid I don't need to remove anything. There is just enough room to get my Grease needle in there. And if there were a break on the trail I can fit my wrenches in there.

I wonder how big of a pain it would be to remove the transfer case skid on the rock hard system. I know that artec's system is like 12 bolts but it comes off in one piece with a single tool.

I don't see it being a deal breaker in any case. I guess just something else I should consider.

I do like the synergy system but wouldn't get the Hd system because of removing the transfer case skid. Isn't it all one piece? (Crossmember and skid)


My last jk I didn't have any extra skids. It was a lot taller and cleared most ledges and honestly most of the impact was on the teraflex control arm brackets and arms. Since I've sold that jeep and gotten the new one I have been doing more jeep camping and less backpacking due to the kids.
The lower sitting jeep seems to be hitting the crossmember transfer case skid and front half of the gas tank.
To get seclusion the camping spots I have found most people won't or can't take there jeeps. Some of the boulders are larger than 2 ft. And even with finesse the jeep seems to be taking a pretty good beating.
This is why I've been considering a whole system.
I'm sure the stock ones will get me home but how long they last and what abuse they will take I am unsure about. Getting a full skid will get me piece of mind and I'm sure much better strength and coverage but at more than 3 times the amount of just a rock hard steel oil/transmission skid is it going to be worth it?

LHC30

I forgot the LCA welded on skids. On a Calico run (Gold Mtn) I nearly tore off the pass front LCA axle mount. I went directly to JPI in Yucaipa and he welded on all four LCA skids. They now take a good beating and the rocks slide off. The frame side front LCA mounts are really beat up, and I don't have drop brackets!

Forgot also about the rear driveshaft. I kept tearing up the stock accordian on rocks so dumped the stock DS and went with a 1310 CV unit front and rear. The Ujoints are sealed, so no greasing there, but the slider does have a zerk and is easily accessible. Much better.

I went with the non-HD Synergy transfer case skid as the stock crossmember wasn't too beat up to reuse and with the good hard steel covering it, I dont see having to replace it anytime soon.

Rock Hard 4x4

Thank you for looking into our skids!

Our aluminum skids are all 1/4" thick, powder coat included, and are very easy to install. Take a look at our video and you'll see just how quickly you can knock out the upgrade and gain 1/4" of under armor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ys80SCb6XmU

FlexyJK

I have helped install both skids. The Artec is a very nice system that takes some time to install and is more in depth with trimming and drilling holes with the use of nutserts. But the end result is a completely smooth bottom with interlocking skids. One issue we saw (besides the nutserts in the frame) was we had to remove the exhaust spacers in order for the oil pan and transfer skid to mount as they provide a bracket that sits behind the exhaust. With the spacers it pushed the exhaust to close to the crossmember to use them. So now the drive line may hit the crossmember at full droop. But the system is very clean and looks super sexy and we will see how it does in Moab. But the Rockhard took about 30 minutes to install. The Rockhard is very straight forward all the bolts lined up perfectly. And it takes a massive beating and holds up very well. They use the rock domes for the bolt heads which is nice. Either system will protect the underside. And i know Rockhard makes a long arm system as well. Im not sure about the Artec as we put it one a short arm.

roscoj

Your right. I have skimmed over the instructions for the artec skid and it does look more involved. However I'm not to worried about drilling and the riv nuts.
My exhaust shouldn't be an issue so I'm good there.

Do you recall about how long this install took?

roscoj

Anyone have any information or pictures on how the aluminum is holding up after some beating?