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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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View Poll Results: Which would you put on first?
engine/transmission skid plate
30.23%
front skid
8.53%
lower control arm skid
3.88%
evap canister skid
46.51%
oil pan skid
22.48%
gas tank skid
8.53%
rear slider skid
2.33%
steering/sway bar skid
5.43%
differential skid
13.95%
other
2.33%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 129. You may not vote on this poll

Skid plate poll!

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Old 11-14-2010, 01:43 PM
  #11  
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I can't say I personally know anyone who has it. I want to get it. I think that's the way the stock skids should look. Nice and clean lines and hugs up tight. Looks to be very well constructed.

Last edited by mkjeep; 11-14-2010 at 01:46 PM. Reason: blacklisted
Old 11-14-2010, 02:12 PM
  #12  
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Engine/Trany 1st. You loose all of your engine oil and you are either stuck or blown up. You need to protect in the order of what is the most costly 1st.
Old 11-14-2010, 02:28 PM
  #13  
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I voted for Evap Skid to go on first. My main issue is that the evap can be taken out by simple road debris. Skid plating is like everything else on a jeep, it all depends on how you are going to use/abuse it and it depends on availability of funds.
Old 11-14-2010, 02:44 PM
  #14  
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I did evap. If you don't relocate, evap is the first.

Everything else is fairly well protected, also the evap, is CHEAP. Can be found for under $150.
Old 11-14-2010, 02:51 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by CerOf
I did evap. If you don't relocate, evap is the first.

Everything else is fairly well protected, also the evap, is CHEAP. Can be found for under $150.
Have you looked under your rig? Your oil pan and tranny are just hanging out in the open. You can get home without your evap can.
Old 11-14-2010, 03:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Cameron1022
The River Raider skids also give something like 1.5" of additional clearance over stock skids, avoid the "tearing driveshaft boot when lifting" problem, and also are compatible with long arm kits.
i don't know who's feeding you this BS but unless you're replacing the factory transmission cross member with one that sits higher and relocating your exhaust cross over up 1.5" and replacing your gas tank with one that is physically shorter, there is no way you are going to gain 1.5" of additional clearance.
Old 11-14-2010, 03:17 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 08JKRHD
Which skid plate would you put on first?
your oil pan is the only thing not protected from the factory. and in all honesty, it is the only thing you should want to armor up. in spite of what some will try to suggest, the factory skids do their job just fine and i have yet to see or hear of a single person have one fail on them yet. just because they get beat up and scratched doesn't mean they aren't doing their job. in other words, save your money and once your factory skids get too beat up, think about replacing them at that time. after almost 4 years of pounding on my factory skids, they are still holding up just fine.

Last edited by wayoflife; 11-14-2010 at 04:30 PM.
Old 11-14-2010, 03:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by w squared

That depends on how they're built and how they're anchored
Absolutely, are there any aftermarket steel flares with a bracing/frame mount? I'm not trying to be a dick, I would buy a set with framework behind them.
Old 11-14-2010, 03:32 PM
  #19  
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I did the poison spider evap skid first, great quality and easy install. If you don't relocate I would recommend it. However... I wish I had just relocated now. Why add any weight if it's not needed.

Just my 2 cents.
Old 11-14-2010, 03:34 PM
  #20  
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I've only added two skids to the factory skids ... Evap and E-Disco ...


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