Should I upgrade Dana 30 to 44 instead of re-gearing, etc?
#31
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[QUOTE=nthinuf;4265966]Just a bit of clarification:
Tru Lok is the factory electronic locker. Only works in Rubicon d44's (or aftermarket housings designed to fit this locker).
Trac Lok is the factory limited slip, optional in rear non-rubicon d44's.
Good catch, I missed that detail.
Tru Lok is the factory electronic locker. Only works in Rubicon d44's (or aftermarket housings designed to fit this locker).
Trac Lok is the factory limited slip, optional in rear non-rubicon d44's.
Good catch, I missed that detail.
#32
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Just a bit of clarification:
Tru Lok is the factory electronic locker. Only works in Rubicon d44's (or aftermarket housings designed to fit this locker).
Trac Lok is the factory limited slip, optional in rear non-rubicon d44's.
TrueTrac is made by Eaton/Detroit.
The factory limited slip uses clutches. Clutch based limiteds don't have the best reputation offroad, as the clutches tend to wear out and need to be replaced. The Truetrac is gear based, no clutches to wear out. Very well reviewed pretty much everywhere you look.
Are these the correct LSDs for my current axles?
Front
https://www.amazon.com/Detroit-Locke...er+JK+TrueTrac
Rear
https://www.amazon.com/Detroit-Locke...62DYDAE1WMPYDG
Since I'm spending 'your' money ... absolutely!
Tru Lok is the factory electronic locker. Only works in Rubicon d44's (or aftermarket housings designed to fit this locker).
Trac Lok is the factory limited slip, optional in rear non-rubicon d44's.
TrueTrac is made by Eaton/Detroit.
The factory limited slip uses clutches. Clutch based limiteds don't have the best reputation offroad, as the clutches tend to wear out and need to be replaced. The Truetrac is gear based, no clutches to wear out. Very well reviewed pretty much everywhere you look.
Are these the correct LSDs for my current axles?
Front
https://www.amazon.com/Detroit-Locke...er+JK+TrueTrac
Rear
https://www.amazon.com/Detroit-Locke...62DYDAE1WMPYDG
Since I'm spending 'your' money ... absolutely!
So is it that you can't add a Locker to the Sahara/Sport Rear Dana 44 but can add a LSD?
Then vise-versa, you can't add a LSD to a Rubi Rear Dana 44 but you can add a Locker?
To me a JK Dana 44 rear was always a JK Dana 44 rear, so this is why I get confused. On my Sahara rear Dana 44, I always thought I could add a Locker since the Rubi Dana 44 could have lockers.
Then on top of that in regards to the available factory front axles. You can't add a LSD to the Rubi front Dana 44 axle but you can add a locker? So I was considering replacing my Dana 30 front with a Rubi Dana 44 but if I can't go with a LSD in the front then that won't work.
I have the Sahara with a Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear. Everyone always says that investing in the front Dana 30 is a bad path to pursue. Essentially, I would like to re-gear to 4.88 in the future and then add LSDs but all my options seem to be either throwing good money after bad or just throwing a boat load of money at a Dana 44 or Dana 60 replacement with all the fixings.
Last edited by Rednroll; 12-15-2016 at 04:17 PM.
#33
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You can use most lockers/limiteds in your non-rubi rear 44, you just can't use the 'factory' locker.
The rubicon axle housing is similar to the non-rubicon axle housing, with the exception of the center section. Same length, tube diameter, wall thickness, etc. The difference is that the pumpkin of the rubi housing has different dimensions in order to fit the rubicon e-locker, and it also requires different length axle shafts. That factory locker is a special beast, not sure why they chose it, since it needs a special axle housing. Most standard lockers will not fit in this housing, though there are a few that do. (probably the most well known is the 35 spline version of the arb locker, but in order to use it, you have to upgrade the axle shafts as well...)
The front rubi 44 comes with the factory electronic locker. You won't need to add a limited slip to it. Just wire it up, then push the button when you want to turn it on.
Unless you are buying a stripped front housing and building it up yourself? If that is the case, then go back to the previous sentence about only certain traction devices fitting in rubicon housings. (I think the options are Ox, Ected, and the 35 spline arb. ?)
The rubicon axle housing is similar to the non-rubicon axle housing, with the exception of the center section. Same length, tube diameter, wall thickness, etc. The difference is that the pumpkin of the rubi housing has different dimensions in order to fit the rubicon e-locker, and it also requires different length axle shafts. That factory locker is a special beast, not sure why they chose it, since it needs a special axle housing. Most standard lockers will not fit in this housing, though there are a few that do. (probably the most well known is the 35 spline version of the arb locker, but in order to use it, you have to upgrade the axle shafts as well...)
The front rubi 44 comes with the factory electronic locker. You won't need to add a limited slip to it. Just wire it up, then push the button when you want to turn it on.
Unless you are buying a stripped front housing and building it up yourself? If that is the case, then go back to the previous sentence about only certain traction devices fitting in rubicon housings. (I think the options are Ox, Ected, and the 35 spline arb. ?)
Last edited by nthinuf; 12-15-2016 at 05:01 PM.
#34
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I am speaking from personal experience. I have a 2008 Jeep JKU Sport had a dana 30 built it up and then had it bend on my I would not waste any money on a dana 30 save for a prorock 44 from dynatrac and in the mean time while you save for it run the 30 front how it is till it dies and then throw the PR 44 on the front and Rock it. I wouldn't waste the money on the dana 30 at all that my advice. Good luck![Rock](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/rock.gif)
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#35
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Sorry late reply, for what the OP is doing with his Jeep a front locker will NEVER be necessary. To add further, locking a D30 on a JK would most likely result in accelerated failure.
And the OP will never need a PR44 either however it's an amazing axle. We see folks go through some fairly challenging obstacles with in a sport or sahara so if the OP is just running fire roads and camping, some C gussets and like most have said here a good investment in recovery gear and possibly an LSD will be extremely more cost effective than a $6k axle assembly.
And the OP will never need a PR44 either however it's an amazing axle. We see folks go through some fairly challenging obstacles with in a sport or sahara so if the OP is just running fire roads and camping, some C gussets and like most have said here a good investment in recovery gear and possibly an LSD will be extremely more cost effective than a $6k axle assembly.
This is where I think I'm at for my axle mod plan.
Front Dana 30 axle
1. C gussets
2. HD ball joints
3. LSD
4. Re-Gear
Rear Dana 44 Axle
1. LSD
2. Re-Gear
I feel for my purposes that LSDs would be best over lockers because I also live in a snow area where the LSD would give me more snow traction uses over being able to lock an axle.
What I'm unsure of are my re-gearing options since I would likely want to do that when adding an LSD. I currently have 3.73 gears with the 3.8L and 35's. I wanted to go to 4.88 but am not sure if that would work or be a wise choice with the Dana 30 front axle housing size limitations.
Last edited by Rednroll; 12-16-2016 at 03:46 AM.
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I already have the winch recovery gear.
This is where I think I'm at for my axle mod plan.
Front Dana 30 axle
1. C gussets
2. HD ball joints
3. LSD
4. Re-Gear
Rear Dana 44 Axle
1. LSD
2. Re-Gear
I feel for my purposes that LSDs would be best over lockers because I also live in a snow area where the LSD would give me more snow traction uses over being able to lock an axle.
What I'm unsure of are my re-gearing options since I would likely want to do that when adding an LSD. I currently have 3.73 gears with the 3.8L and 35's. I wanted to go to 4.88 but am not sure if that would work or be a wise choice with the Dana 30 front axle housing size limitations.
This is where I think I'm at for my axle mod plan.
Front Dana 30 axle
1. C gussets
2. HD ball joints
3. LSD
4. Re-Gear
Rear Dana 44 Axle
1. LSD
2. Re-Gear
I feel for my purposes that LSDs would be best over lockers because I also live in a snow area where the LSD would give me more snow traction uses over being able to lock an axle.
What I'm unsure of are my re-gearing options since I would likely want to do that when adding an LSD. I currently have 3.73 gears with the 3.8L and 35's. I wanted to go to 4.88 but am not sure if that would work or be a wise choice with the Dana 30 front axle housing size limitations.
If you're doing ball joints, do yourself a favor and treat yourself to Dynatracs.
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3.21 gears in a 2012 sport, so 30 in front 44 in the back.
I'll be re-gearing to 4.10 and getting some sort of locker(s) - Still to be decided if I go truetrac or locker... just front... just rear... both.. unknown!
I'm going either with the BFG 34x10.50's or some Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 35x12.50.
Mostly mall crawling. Not a rock crawler. Trails and camping, that sort of thing...
Just curious if the Dana 30 is worth putting money into, or if I should just find a new take off front dana 44 in 4.10 that already has a locker on ebay. They seem to run about 2200 bucks and are complete.
Thoughts?
I'll be re-gearing to 4.10 and getting some sort of locker(s) - Still to be decided if I go truetrac or locker... just front... just rear... both.. unknown!
I'm going either with the BFG 34x10.50's or some Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 35x12.50.
Mostly mall crawling. Not a rock crawler. Trails and camping, that sort of thing...
Just curious if the Dana 30 is worth putting money into, or if I should just find a new take off front dana 44 in 4.10 that already has a locker on ebay. They seem to run about 2200 bucks and are complete.
Thoughts?
R/
Will
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I don't get it. The cost of changing out to a 44 is not in the same ballpark as upgrading the 30. The size of tubing is marginally different. Mine is gusseted, sleeved, trussed. 4.88 gears and a Yukon zip locker. If you do all your own work the cost is not bad with one trip to your work bench. No issues or worries.
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I don't get it. The cost of changing out to a 44 is not in the same ballpark as upgrading the 30. The size of tubing is marginally different. Mine is gusseted, sleeved, trussed. 4.88 gears and a Yukon zip locker. If you do all your own work the cost is not bad with one trip to your work bench. No issues or worries.