Should I upgrade Dana 30 to 44 instead of re-gearing, etc?
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Thanks for the tips everyone! Lots of good info. It's nice to hear from folks who have actually done some miles and not keyboard warriors. Overlanding is what actually got me interested in Jeep life.
I dont plan on being on Ultimate Adventure or climbing walls in Moab. I couldn't stomach the cost of potential damage.
I mentioned lockers because the axles will be open... why not put a truetrac in?
Winch is definitely on my list of additions.
I'm going to:
* Reinforce the D30
* Truetrac in the D44
* Wheels/tires
Just gotta pick a gear ratio!
I dont plan on being on Ultimate Adventure or climbing walls in Moab. I couldn't stomach the cost of potential damage.
I mentioned lockers because the axles will be open... why not put a truetrac in?
Winch is definitely on my list of additions.
I'm going to:
* Reinforce the D30
* Truetrac in the D44
* Wheels/tires
Just gotta pick a gear ratio!
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Truetracs are a great option for non-Rubicons that don't hardcore rock crawl. I did 4.56 gears and truetracs front and rear in my sport. Truetracs provide traction to both wheels as long as they're both on the ground, and they transfer power faster than the BLD. I've had mine for almost one year now, driven them in sand, snow, mud, off camber situations and they are great. Half the price of a true locker, no airlines or electronics to fail either.
What's the rub w/ Truetrac's and one wheel off the ground? Does it not work when there's zero torque on one of the wheels? It needs -something- to work? I was looking at the Eaton website and it doesn't really cover that.. Just says if a wheel is spinning it will transfer.
I'm not too worried about it. I have a ton of flex and won't be doing anything "stupid" with it. Just curious.
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90 for the carrier, 390 for the truetrac.
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What's the rub w/ Truetrac's and one wheel off the ground? Does it not work when there's zero torque on one of the wheels? It needs -something- to work? I was looking at the Eaton website and it doesn't really cover that.. Just says if a wheel is spinning it will transfer.
Basically, this is what the BLD system does electronically. Senses wheel slip, and adds brake pressure to that tire to transfer power to the tire that still has traction. The benefit with the truetrac is that the BLD system will apply the brakes for you. So BLD is better than open diffs. BLD + Truetrac is better than BLD alone. And lockers are better still.
For what it's worth, I have run front/rear truetracs, front/rear Detroit auto-lockers, and currently have front/rear selectables. For my typical usage, the truetracs are my favorites. I went to selectables this time around just because I could, not because I needed them...
Last edited by nthinuf; 12-14-2016 at 11:10 AM.
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That's where my head is at. What's another 300 bucks when you're already in a couple thousand?
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The truetrac is a limited slip, not a full locker. Unlike full lockers, it needs some type of resistance to transfer power. With a tire in the air, that resistance comes from a small amount of brake pressure.
Basically, this is what the BLD system does electronically. Senses wheel slip, and adds brake pressure to that tire to transfer power to the tire that still has traction. The benefit with the truetrac is that the BLD system will apply the brakes for you. So BLD is better than open diffs. BLD + Truetrac is better than BLD alone. And lockers are better still.
For what it's worth, I have run front/rear truetracs, front/rear Detroit auto-lockers, and currently have front/rear selectables. For my typical usage, the truetracs are my favorites. I went to selectables this time around just because I could, not because I needed them...
Basically, this is what the BLD system does electronically. Senses wheel slip, and adds brake pressure to that tire to transfer power to the tire that still has traction. The benefit with the truetrac is that the BLD system will apply the brakes for you. So BLD is better than open diffs. BLD + Truetrac is better than BLD alone. And lockers are better still.
For what it's worth, I have run front/rear truetracs, front/rear Detroit auto-lockers, and currently have front/rear selectables. For my typical usage, the truetracs are my favorites. I went to selectables this time around just because I could, not because I needed them...
#17
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I am speaking from personal experience. I have a 2008 Jeep JKU Sport had a dana 30 built it up and then had it bend on my I would not waste any money on a dana 30 save for a prorock 44 from dynatrac and in the mean time while you save for it run the 30 front how it is till it dies and then throw the PR 44 on the front and Rock it. I wouldn't waste the money on the dana 30 at all that my advice. Good luck
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I am speaking from personal experience. I have a 2008 Jeep JKU Sport had a dana 30 built it up and then had it bend on my I would not waste any money on a dana 30 save for a prorock 44 from dynatrac and in the mean time while you save for it run the 30 front how it is till it dies and then throw the PR 44 on the front and Rock it. I wouldn't waste the money on the dana 30 at all that my advice. Good luck![Rock](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/rock.gif)
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I am speaking from personal experience. I have a 2008 Jeep JKU Sport had a dana 30 built it up and then had it bend on my I would not waste any money on a dana 30 save for a prorock 44 from dynatrac and in the mean time while you save for it run the 30 front how it is till it dies and then throw the PR 44 on the front and Rock it. I wouldn't waste the money on the dana 30 at all that my advice. Good luck![Rock](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/rock.gif)
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To that point, considering this:
JEEP J8 Military Issue Dana 44 Front Crate Axle W/ Rubicon Trac-Lok And 4.10 R&P | eBay
JEEP J8 Military Issue Dana 44 Front Crate Axle W/ Rubicon Trac-Lok And 4.10 R&P | eBay