Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Should I upgrade Dana 30 to 44 instead of re-gearing, etc?

Thread Tools
 
Old 12-14-2016, 06:35 AM
  #11  
JK Enthusiast
 
jeepfan30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: DuPont, WA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by decoy5657
Thanks for the tips everyone! Lots of good info. It's nice to hear from folks who have actually done some miles and not keyboard warriors. Overlanding is what actually got me interested in Jeep life.

I dont plan on being on Ultimate Adventure or climbing walls in Moab. I couldn't stomach the cost of potential damage.

I mentioned lockers because the axles will be open... why not put a truetrac in?


Winch is definitely on my list of additions.

I'm going to:
* Reinforce the D30
* Truetrac in the D44
* Wheels/tires



Just gotta pick a gear ratio!
Truetracs are a great option for non-Rubicons that don't hardcore rock crawl. I did 4.56 gears and truetracs front and rear in my sport. Truetracs provide traction to both wheels as long as they're both on the ground, and they transfer power faster than the BLD. I've had mine for almost one year now, driven them in sand, snow, mud, off camber situations and they are great. Half the price of a true locker, no airlines or electronics to fail either.
Old 12-14-2016, 10:42 AM
  #12  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
decoy5657's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jeepfan30
Truetracs are a great option for non-Rubicons that don't hardcore rock crawl. I did 4.56 gears and truetracs front and rear in my sport. Truetracs provide traction to both wheels as long as they're both on the ground, and they transfer power faster than the BLD. I've had mine for almost one year now, driven them in sand, snow, mud, off camber situations and they are great. Half the price of a true locker, no airlines or electronics to fail either.


What's the rub w/ Truetrac's and one wheel off the ground? Does it not work when there's zero torque on one of the wheels? It needs -something- to work? I was looking at the Eaton website and it doesn't really cover that.. Just says if a wheel is spinning it will transfer.

I'm not too worried about it. I have a ton of flex and won't be doing anything "stupid" with it. Just curious.
Old 12-14-2016, 10:56 AM
  #13  
JK Jedi Master
FJOTM Winner
 
nthinuf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes on 154 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by decoy5657

I mentioned lockers because the axles will be open... why not put a truetrac in?
Since you have 3.21's, the front carrier needs to be replaced when you regear. May as well throw a truetrac in there instead of buying a new open carrier.

90 for the carrier, 390 for the truetrac.
Old 12-14-2016, 11:03 AM
  #14  
JK Jedi Master
FJOTM Winner
 
nthinuf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes on 154 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by decoy5657
What's the rub w/ Truetrac's and one wheel off the ground? Does it not work when there's zero torque on one of the wheels? It needs -something- to work? I was looking at the Eaton website and it doesn't really cover that.. Just says if a wheel is spinning it will transfer.
The truetrac is a limited slip, not a full locker. Unlike full lockers, it needs some type of resistance to transfer power. With a tire in the air, that resistance comes from a small amount of brake pressure.

Basically, this is what the BLD system does electronically. Senses wheel slip, and adds brake pressure to that tire to transfer power to the tire that still has traction. The benefit with the truetrac is that the BLD system will apply the brakes for you. So BLD is better than open diffs. BLD + Truetrac is better than BLD alone. And lockers are better still.

For what it's worth, I have run front/rear truetracs, front/rear Detroit auto-lockers, and currently have front/rear selectables. For my typical usage, the truetracs are my favorites. I went to selectables this time around just because I could, not because I needed them...

Last edited by nthinuf; 12-14-2016 at 11:10 AM.
Old 12-14-2016, 11:18 AM
  #15  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
decoy5657's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by nthinuf
Since you have 3.21's, the front carrier needs to be replaced when you regear. May as well throw a truetrac in there instead of buying a new open carrier.

90 for the carrier, 390 for the truetrac.
That's where my head is at. What's another 300 bucks when you're already in a couple thousand?
Old 12-14-2016, 12:25 PM
  #16  
JK Enthusiast
 
jeepfan30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: DuPont, WA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by nthinuf
The truetrac is a limited slip, not a full locker. Unlike full lockers, it needs some type of resistance to transfer power. With a tire in the air, that resistance comes from a small amount of brake pressure.

Basically, this is what the BLD system does electronically. Senses wheel slip, and adds brake pressure to that tire to transfer power to the tire that still has traction. The benefit with the truetrac is that the BLD system will apply the brakes for you. So BLD is better than open diffs. BLD + Truetrac is better than BLD alone. And lockers are better still.

For what it's worth, I have run front/rear truetracs, front/rear Detroit auto-lockers, and currently have front/rear selectables. For my typical usage, the truetracs are my favorites. I went to selectables this time around just because I could, not because I needed them...
Great explanation on the LSD and BLD, my thoughts exactly. It's great to hear feedback from someone who's had Truetracs and selectable lockers. Thanks
Old 12-14-2016, 01:25 PM
  #17  
JK Newbie
 
MKPjk08's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Logan Utah
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I am speaking from personal experience. I have a 2008 Jeep JKU Sport had a dana 30 built it up and then had it bend on my I would not waste any money on a dana 30 save for a prorock 44 from dynatrac and in the mean time while you save for it run the 30 front how it is till it dies and then throw the PR 44 on the front and Rock it. I wouldn't waste the money on the dana 30 at all that my advice. Good luck
Old 12-14-2016, 01:30 PM
  #18  
JK Enthusiast
 
jeepfan30's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: DuPont, WA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MKPjk08
I am speaking from personal experience. I have a 2008 Jeep JKU Sport had a dana 30 built it up and then had it bend on my I would not waste any money on a dana 30 save for a prorock 44 from dynatrac and in the mean time while you save for it run the 30 front how it is till it dies and then throw the PR 44 on the front and Rock it. I wouldn't waste the money on the dana 30 at all that my advice. Good luck
What bent, C's or tubes? And how did you know it was bent, was it visually noticeable? Usually there is a specific event that bends it, were you heavy on the gas when wheeling?
Old 12-14-2016, 02:19 PM
  #19  
JK Jedi
FJOTM Winner
 
resharp001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Willow Park, TX
Posts: 10,899
Received 1,927 Likes on 1,686 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MKPjk08
I am speaking from personal experience. I have a 2008 Jeep JKU Sport had a dana 30 built it up and then had it bend on my I would not waste any money on a dana 30 save for a prorock 44 from dynatrac and in the mean time while you save for it run the 30 front how it is till it dies and then throw the PR 44 on the front and Rock it. I wouldn't waste the money on the dana 30 at all that my advice. Good luck
Although I agree with this statement 99% of the time, I think the OP has gotten some decent advice for his particular situation and for his use.
Old 12-14-2016, 05:07 PM
  #20  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
decoy5657's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

To that point, considering this:


JEEP J8 Military Issue Dana 44 Front Crate Axle W/ Rubicon Trac-Lok And 4.10 R&P | eBay


Quick Reply: Should I upgrade Dana 30 to 44 instead of re-gearing, etc?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:42 PM.