Should I re-gear?
#21
JK Enthusiast
Sort of funny story...and sort of not....
I recently regeared and the shop was supposed to install 5.13's at my request. When I got my Jeep back I could immediately tell the difference in power. It was night and day type of difference, and since my Jeep is my daily driver I no longer have those white-knuckled merges when entering highway speeds.
Anyhow, after the reagear I was having major issues running in 4WD and long story short it turns out the shop put in different gears - a 5.13 in the front and a 5.38 in the back. The funny thing is I am so glad I had the 5.38 installed for two reasons - 1) If you look at the chart I can go up to 37's if I want to and not have to worry about trying to get more out of my gear set, 2) I tow a boat from time to time and the extra low end will definitely prove to be helpful.
Now I am just waiting for the shop to call me back to arrange an appointment to get the 5.13 gear swapped in the front to a 5.38.
Anyhow, the automatics are undergeared from the factory in my opinion - just look at the chart presented earlier in this thread and note the difference from manual to auto. My Jeep now runs better than it did with the 4.10's and stock Rubicon tires. I've got more UMPH and it's a helluva lot more fun to drive.
My $.02.
I recently regeared and the shop was supposed to install 5.13's at my request. When I got my Jeep back I could immediately tell the difference in power. It was night and day type of difference, and since my Jeep is my daily driver I no longer have those white-knuckled merges when entering highway speeds.
Anyhow, after the reagear I was having major issues running in 4WD and long story short it turns out the shop put in different gears - a 5.13 in the front and a 5.38 in the back. The funny thing is I am so glad I had the 5.38 installed for two reasons - 1) If you look at the chart I can go up to 37's if I want to and not have to worry about trying to get more out of my gear set, 2) I tow a boat from time to time and the extra low end will definitely prove to be helpful.
Now I am just waiting for the shop to call me back to arrange an appointment to get the 5.13 gear swapped in the front to a 5.38.
Anyhow, the automatics are undergeared from the factory in my opinion - just look at the chart presented earlier in this thread and note the difference from manual to auto. My Jeep now runs better than it did with the 4.10's and stock Rubicon tires. I've got more UMPH and it's a helluva lot more fun to drive.
My $.02.
I'm still running stock tires but what an improvement with the 5.13's. I't worth the cost !
#22
JK Newbie
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Thanks!
had a vision of this jeep for a long time.
someone once told me.
JEEP stands for
Just. Empty. Every. Pocket.
The regear scheduled for Tuesday will begin the process.
I will post my experiences with the change later this week.
had a vision of this jeep for a long time.
someone once told me.
JEEP stands for
Just. Empty. Every. Pocket.
The regear scheduled for Tuesday will begin the process.
I will post my experiences with the change later this week.
#23
Finally got my 1st Jeep about 1 month ago. 4" lift, 18" wheels and 35" tires. Love Love Love it. Of course the gearing with the new tires make the motor doggy. I have heard both sides of the story for re-gearing.
Your thoughts?
1. will it improve gas mileage? ( not that it matters all that much )
2. Is it worth the $1000-$1500.
3. If you re-geared, what are your pros and cons?
2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited X
What do you suggest for gears?
Thanks!
Your thoughts?
1. will it improve gas mileage? ( not that it matters all that much )
2. Is it worth the $1000-$1500.
3. If you re-geared, what are your pros and cons?
2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited X
What do you suggest for gears?
Thanks!
2. Is it worth the $1000-$1500. Yes!
3. If you re-geared, what are your pros and cons? The con is obviously the cost, the pro is that it gets your Jeep back to what it was designed to do before you changed all the gear ratios with bigger tires!
#24
Definately 513s. 538s might put your RPMs too high for the road. My 40s need 538s and im told that my RPMs will be great for the trail but bad for the long road. But, I need them because I can't even climb a mountain on the highway without pushing 3500 RPMs.
#27
If u view my profile it should give u some details. Can u see my Avatar? i also have some extra pics in my album.
Are u running 33s or 35s? Any tire 35" and above should be running at least 513 or higher. 488s dont push my 40s for anything. They are great on the straight flat road (good mi/gal) but any grade will bog it down. if your tire is a 33" or lower 488s should be fine.
Are u running 33s or 35s? Any tire 35" and above should be running at least 513 or higher. 488s dont push my 40s for anything. They are great on the straight flat road (good mi/gal) but any grade will bog it down. if your tire is a 33" or lower 488s should be fine.
#28
JK Freak
I just regeared to 5.13's, last week, from 4.10's. Sure, you can get by with the 4.10's, but there is a noticible difference with 5.13's on an automatic. I kick myself for not going higher sooner. Well worth the price.
#29
JK Enthusiast
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My personal take is that there is a misconception with the RPM differences between 5.13's and 5.38's.
Just take a look at the 70MPH chart - there is only a 115 RMP difference between the two (35's). To me that just doesn't seem like very much...
Keep in mind that this is for Automatics only, the 6-speed RPM band/measurement is very different when it comes to gearing.
#30
JK Enthusiast
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