Short arm vs long arm
05-17-2012, 06:37 PM
#11
JK Newbie
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You can certainly spend the money to use a long arm kit with a 3" lift if you want...but you're going to end up spending a pile of extra money, and not seeing much benefit. Generally, the benefits of a long arm kit are only realized if you're running more than 4 inches of lift, if you are really looking for exceptiona suspension performance at high speeds, or if you're looking to get the best out of a set of coilovers.
05-18-2012, 07:07 AM
#12
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Long arms are better for on road, that is the only difference. Short arms ride rougher and that is why guys elect to go long arm. If its a DD i would suggest L/A, if you have it as a toy, save the money, go S/A and spend the saved coin on something else.
Just my two cents.
Just my two cents.
05-18-2012, 09:22 AM
#13
Former Vendor
Let us know if you have any questions about our products, the long arm vs. short arm debate is very opinionated! There is a lot a factors when debating, start by figuring out what tire size you are looking to run on your JK, then that will at least give you an idea of how much lift you are going to be looking for. Then factor in how much wheeling you are going to do with your rig vs how much you will be street driving it.
RK
RK
05-18-2012, 10:06 AM
#14
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So you can go LA and lose no clearance. Actually gain some as the SA brackets get cut off
05-18-2012, 10:41 AM
#15
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If you hit a bump (let's use a speed bump as an example) the vehicles suspension is called on to manage it. With a stock suspension, the LCAs are fairly level, so it is an easy manuever to raise up and let the springs and shocks do their thing. When you lift your Jeep your lift height correspondingly rakes your LCAs downward. When you hit the same bump, it require more leverage and force to swing the axle up since the axle coming up means also coming forward (picture a circle with a radius drawn in. When it's at or near level, rotating up require less or no forward travel - which is rough because it prolongs the time until the shock and spring can do their jobs). With a long arm kit, you effectively lengthen the radius and leverage making it require less force (read rough ride) to rotate the axle up on the axis of the control arms. In a controversial move, AEV has brought to market drop brackets which lowers the frame mounting point of the control arms to give similar geometry of a long arm lift. The brackets hang down, but the ride is smoother and has the added (and intentional) benefit of obviating the need for cam bolts on their lifts.
Gary
05-18-2012, 10:42 AM
#16
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The main difference is articulation, but there's a good amount of work to get a long arm on, usually involves cutting off of old brackets and welding on the new ones. The JKU's have fairly long arms to begin with and when you upgrade to an aftermarket short arm you have even more adjustability available to you. I personally went with a short arm because I got a steal of a deal on all 8, in the future I will probably sell them for what I got them for and upgrade to a long arm but for now it honestly wheels really well.
Gary