So as far as I can figure I'm going to end up having to either get a cheap lift and add the extra parts that I want since I haven't been able to find all the parts (style or included) in a bolt on kit, so I was wondering how important is it to have springs "tuned" to the springs in a certain lift? For example I have seen AEV tune Bilstiens, Teraflex tuned Fox and Falcon Shocks just to name a few. So does anyone have any experience with "tuned" shocks or just regular shocks? And how do they compare to stock on road and off? I have a 2 dr rubicon if that matters and am looking to go up 3-3.5" so I can clear 35's with stock fender flares, will be adding bumpers and a few skids around the same time and obviously if I ask a manufacturer they're going to only recommend their stuff.
Thx

 

The whole "specifically tuned to this lift or that lift" thing is a bunch of BS to me. They very well may be, but 99.9% of people aren't going to tell a difference at all. Maybe someone in tune with things like a NASCAR or Forumla One driver might be able to tell a difference, but we're not talking precision vehicles here. It's all just branding if you ask me.

I would note that you don't have to go 3.5" to fit 35s. 2.5" and 35s is a nice look, and going to be a bit easier on all components while being very capable off road. Regardless of what you do, you would be fine picking an appropriately lengthed shock in whatever brand you prefer. You might decided something that is adjustable like a Rancho RS9000 might be preferable. FOX and Bilstein will be fairly comparable. the TF Falcons look purdy, with a price tag to match....same with King.

 

Ok I haven't quite yet decided on springs and shocks yet as I didn't know if it made a difference or not and the reason I was thinking 3-3.5" is because I removed the back seat so I can take all the stuff as I've always been the 2nd Jeep with most to all the heavy stuff and after I add the armor the weight should bring me down about .5" in front and just over that in the rear according to the spring rates I was able to get direct from most companies and their springs give about .25" over advertised so I would be at right around 2.25" with a 2.5" and I've already stuffed and rubbed my fronts just on some of the local trails
Also I have thought about adjustables before but decided with the road salt and red rock they put on the roads here during the winter and the fact that I have to go over a mtn pass to and from work and then it sits for 1-3 months without having the chance to be rinsed off it wouldn't be worth it.

 

Another point to research is how much 'actual' lift height you might expect with coils from your mfg of choice. I'm somewhere closer to 5" with MetalCloak 3.5" coils. Plenty of room for 37's, even with stock flares before I chopped them. So as a suggestion, do a little more research - 2.5" coils, from a quality mfg, might get you to that 3" height with the back end loaded with gear.

Since a picture is supposed to be worth more than words, MC 3.5", 37" cooper stt pro, stock flares. (And that tire is on the curb, the gap is compressed a bit more than the other side. Way too much room for my old 35's, that measured an actual 33.5"...

 

My 2 cents is that shock tuning is dependent on a lot of things particular to a given Jeep, including personal preference, and it's most applicable to higher speeds. I played with another Jeeps adjustable shocks one time, the owner and I had totally different preferences for the same terrain. There's a lot to it, and don't even trust my own butt to feel the best tuning for someone else on the same rig.

 

What actual size are those coopers? The tires I have from my old XJ are Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ's and measure and actual 34.4, but after they are done in probably a year or tow I was planning on getting the ones are actual 35x12 R17.

 

'Spec' for the stt pro is 36.6". Sitting under the front end they measured just about 36.0" when new. My previous 35's were spec'd at 34.6, but actual measurement was around 33.5" sitting under the jeep. Just mentioning in case we are talking in different terms - mfg spec, unmounted height, mounted spare, under vehicle weight.

And didn't mean to take the thread off on a tangent about tire sizes, was just a heads-up that some coils have been known to give quite a bit more height than expected - which can prove costly.

 

Like nthinuf stated. It's hard to go by the marketed/advertised lift amount. Typically vendors advertise on the low side in regards to lift amount for Spring/Shock based lifts because many of us will have added weight, such as steal bumpers, armor, rock rails, winches, and a larger tire hanging on the back. They likely want to avoid customers being upset who have those typical types of added weight and having to deal with the, "I bought a 3in lift, and I'm only getting 2 inches of lift" complaints. Puck/budget based lifts seem to be another story however since the pucks can't compress like a spring with added weight. So a 2.5in puck based lift is typically 2.5in of actual lift and a 2.5in spring lift is closer to 3.5in actual lift. Clear as mud isn't it?

My Mopar "2in Lift" which is a spring based lift was 3 1/4" of "actual" lift at stock weight. Once I decided on which lift I thought was best for me, then I read a lot of discussions from others with the same lift, to determine the general ballpark of "actual" lift amount. Some boosted 3 3/4" of actual lift but that was outside of the norm which was 3in to 3 1/4" consensus for the Mopar 2in lift. So I already knew what to expect of actual lift amount before I made my purchase and sure as sh*t, the actual lift amount came in right at 3 1/4" once I installed it. I then later added heavy steal front/rear bumpers, steal front skid plate, 12K Winch and winch mounting plate, HD tire carrier, as well as a 35in spare hanging on the back. I'm now sitting around 2 3/4 of "actual" lift with my advertised 2in Lift.

Here's how I'm currently sitting with 35s and my 2in lift.


I'ld say based upon what I've read over the years with various spring based lifts. A good rule of thumb that can be used is to look at the advertised lift amount and add 1in to it, and you will be in the ballpark of "actual" lift amount.

If ever the day comes where I decide these 35in tires aren't big enough for me and I have money burning a hole in my pocket and decide to go to 37in tires, then the MetalCloak game changer 3.5in lift would be at the top of my list to fit those 37s and I already know I'ld be looking at 4.5-5in of actual lift.