shocking
03-06-2008, 07:55 AM
#2
JK Super Freak
The lift only changes your ride height.
The shocks do not travel inch per inch for lift vs shock travel, due to their inboard location, etc.
Depending upon how much articulation you want out of your lift...you would start with a length of 15" compressed.....we know that number, and then droop the suspension, and measure the upper to lower shock mount eye to eye distance.
That's as far as you can droop...if the new lift has longer arms, and you have made slack for brake lines and wires, the e-brake cable, etc...you'd really need to measure to see for sure.
Most of the kits I've seen use shocks that ere too long to fully compress, and add bumpstop extensions to limit your uptravel/articulation (IE: Longer shocks when drooped, but can't compress enough)
Without a lift, a 15" - 27" shock works great.
The stock shocks are only about 14 - 22"....and some of the lift kit shocks are only 24-26" long when extended.
Teraflex uses shocks that are ~ 35" when extended, but only compress to about 20-21"...meaning, BIG bumpstop extensions - that's for their 6" lift.
The rest of them are inbetween those extremes.....and, depending upon how compact your coils can get...the extensions are also needed to avoid over compression damage to the coils as well....so, there are always compromises, etc.
If you look up what shocks are used by what lifts, you'll see what I mean.......the amount of total TRAVEL should be one of your targets...12 - 14" typically, some much less, like only 10" or so, etc.
The shocks do not travel inch per inch for lift vs shock travel, due to their inboard location, etc.
Depending upon how much articulation you want out of your lift...you would start with a length of 15" compressed.....we know that number, and then droop the suspension, and measure the upper to lower shock mount eye to eye distance.
That's as far as you can droop...if the new lift has longer arms, and you have made slack for brake lines and wires, the e-brake cable, etc...you'd really need to measure to see for sure.
Most of the kits I've seen use shocks that ere too long to fully compress, and add bumpstop extensions to limit your uptravel/articulation (IE: Longer shocks when drooped, but can't compress enough)
Without a lift, a 15" - 27" shock works great.
The stock shocks are only about 14 - 22"....and some of the lift kit shocks are only 24-26" long when extended.
Teraflex uses shocks that are ~ 35" when extended, but only compress to about 20-21"...meaning, BIG bumpstop extensions - that's for their 6" lift.
The rest of them are inbetween those extremes.....and, depending upon how compact your coils can get...the extensions are also needed to avoid over compression damage to the coils as well....so, there are always compromises, etc.
If you look up what shocks are used by what lifts, you'll see what I mean.......the amount of total TRAVEL should be one of your targets...12 - 14" typically, some much less, like only 10" or so, etc.
Last edited by TEEJ; 03-06-2008 at 08:14 AM.
03-06-2008, 06:31 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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thanks
thank you guys but i must admit i understood about 1/10 of that, i'll have to have my wife read it and break it down so a third grader could understand it
,,,, no, thanks alot, there is no rule of thumb, who am i kidding i can't afford em anyway
,,,, no, thanks alot, there is no rule of thumb, who am i kidding i can't afford em anyway
03-06-2008, 06:42 PM
#4
JK Super Freak
LOL
You know, I get a bit nervous about people who modify their rigs w/o actually knowing anything about what they are doing...
Wishbook engineering.
I also think its great to drive the rigs stock for a long time, under different circumstances, to get a feel for what it can, and can't do...BEFORE changing things.
See what the limiting factors are, then change the one's that make sense, etc.
The rig I use for work has parts from about 6 different companies...a Frankinlift...just taking the parts I liked from each, and making my own solution.
If no one has something I need, I go to the shop, and make it...or have my machinist do it, etc....depending upon timing, etc.
Almost every kit has compromises, they do it to hit price points....if they didn't have to make it able to be sold at a price you could pay...they don't sell it, no matter HOW good it is.
So - depending on the kit, and your needs, the compromises one company made might be a better deal for YOU than another company's compromises, etc.
You know, I get a bit nervous about people who modify their rigs w/o actually knowing anything about what they are doing...
Wishbook engineering.
I also think its great to drive the rigs stock for a long time, under different circumstances, to get a feel for what it can, and can't do...BEFORE changing things.
See what the limiting factors are, then change the one's that make sense, etc.
The rig I use for work has parts from about 6 different companies...a Frankinlift...just taking the parts I liked from each, and making my own solution.
If no one has something I need, I go to the shop, and make it...or have my machinist do it, etc....depending upon timing, etc.
Almost every kit has compromises, they do it to hit price points....if they didn't have to make it able to be sold at a price you could pay...they don't sell it, no matter HOW good it is.
So - depending on the kit, and your needs, the compromises one company made might be a better deal for YOU than another company's compromises, etc.