Okay this is my first post here guys, forgive me if I don't yet know all the ins and outs of the forum. Warning: I can be long-winded.

I have a 2012 JKU Sport with max-tow option. I am planning on starting off my suspension with Rock Krawler components. I am either going to be buying the 2.5 stock mod to start, or piecing together RK 3.5 springs, JKS adjustable trackbars or something similarly priced, and JKS extended swaybar links. I like LCG builds and am not afraid of trimming pinch seams or fenders. I've already done both. I will probably never have more than ~4in of lift.

Here is my deal. I want to buy these parts and get them on as soon as possible to better utilize my 37in Nittos. However, I do not have the money to purchase the shocks I want right now (Fox 2.0 remote reservoir.) I do not want to waste money buying a set of cheapo, transitional shocks just to replace them with the Fox's a few months later.

I have been trying to look into shock relocation brackets as an option to raise the axle-side shock mount 2.5-3.5 inches, which theoretically would allow me to utilize my crappy stock shocks until I can afford the ones I really want and envision for my build, and at the same time gain me some ground clearance at the outside of the axles to keep off the rocks. I cannot really find anyone else that has good info on this.

SO, I humbly come to y'all here at JK-Forum, asking not necessarily for opinions, but rather to ask if I am correct in this being possible, and what brands would allow me to do this.

I have had the Jeep for a year now as of a few days ago, and have been taking my time with things such as suspension, engine, and driveline modifications so I make no mistakes. I am very familiar with cars in general, as my previous and first vehicle was a 1995 Acura Integra that I completely rebuilt suspension and motor on and turbocharged. I understand the majority of the dynamics of most vehicles, even solid axle ones. I have learned a lot from this Jeep.

I just cannot come across any definitive information on how to go about doing this and what brand would meet my goals etc. I have a very good sense of what is quality and what is not, (duh I have a bright white JKU with Poison Spyder all around), I would like to use Synergy, Metalcloak, Rock Krawler, something of equal quality. I am not afraid of grinding/cutting stock mounts or welding new ones. I'm mechanically inclined, have a welder, and am not afraid of any warranty issues beyond powertrain. I do my own work and according to my wants and needs, not anyone else's.


To sum up my redundant long post, can I move all 4 shocks upwards 2.5-3.5 inches in order to run a lift without immediately buying new shocks? What brand/s will allow me to do this? I know I will be temporarily sacrificing some down travel with the JKU Sport shocks as opposed to buying some cheap crappy ones made for a lift, but i am more concerned about uptravel and tire clearance until i get Fox 2.0's.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

On the rear simply cut off the factory mounts with a die grinder and move them up where you want them and weld them back on. Up front you can find shock extenders that simply screw on the top of the shock. While you are cutting on the rear go ahead and trim the lower control arm mounts for some extra clearance.

 

That seems like an easy fix for the rear, but then I would possibly need to order two different sets of shocks according to length in the future-for front and rear. Is there a way to relocate the front mounts up the same distance as the rears would be moved up? I'm trying to specifically avoid using shock extensions, sorry, I should've mentioned that in the post

 

You can go to somewhere like ballistic or ruffstuff and buy new shock mount brackets and weld them on your axle. new brackets or extensions, you will still be running 8" of travel and would not be able to tell the difference between the two if it is going to be temporary.

 

Cool thanks for the info. Have yet to hear of those vendors. I want to avoid using extensions because I'd like to gain the extra ground clearance while I'm at it and have the same shocks(collapsed and extended length) front and rear eventually when I pick up some Fox's. Having two different ones or using extensions on one end would bother me a bit, I can be a tad OCD sometimes

 

So it looks like synergy front relocation brackets, and metalcloak rear brackets used together is the best way to go about this. They both move the lower shock mount up about 2 inches.

Synergy's bolt in to the stock mounts up front, and Metalcloak's bolt in to the rear brackets after you drill holes for the new bracket, then you can cut off 3-4inches of the lower portion of the rear shock mounts gaining ground clearance for crawling.

Will definitely be going this route when I lift in order to reuse the stock shocks for a while.

My next question, if anyone sees this, is can I use the metalcloak outboard shock relocation brackets on top of the synergy brackets up front? Can't really tell by looking. If I welded the synergy bracket in then bolted the metalcloak. The outboard relocation turns the eyelet to allow sway during articulation instead of binding and possible frame contact.

 

you could buy some cheap rancho 5000X shocks right now for about dirt cheap and you might find they work way better than you expected. They have a rebate going on and after rebate you are at about $120 for a set of 4.

 

Unless synergy came out with something new their shock relocation brackets for the front simply move the shock out at the axle side. They don't raise them. The metalcloak or nemesis front brackets do raise the mount at the axle side but only by an inch or less.

 

I guess they are a new product then.

 

They move them up 2 inches or so, They don't appear to. rotate the eyelet or move the shock outward to clear the frame like the Metalcloak front lower "outboard" brackets do. That's why I was wondering about using the Metalcloak outboard brackets on top of the Synergy "relocation" brackets up front, in order to raise the lower shock mount and also move it outward and rotate the eyelet for clearance with 2.0s and to prevent binding.