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Shim starting thickness

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Old 02-14-2016, 10:42 AM
  #11  
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The install kit is a Yukon. From everything I can find, the pinion baffle and oil slinger look the exact same. There was only 1 in the kit, so we put in behind the inner pinion bearing, in the back there's only the race, bearing, and then the flange and nut. Is this correct? I'm going to order a slinger, but since it's behind the rear bearing I wouldn't see how it would make a difference for setup purposes. Is this correct?
Old 02-14-2016, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
The install kit is a Yukon. From everything I can find, the pinion baffle and oil slinger look the exact same. There was only 1 in the kit, so we put in behind the inner pinion bearing, in the back there's only the race, bearing, and then the flange and nut. Is this correct? I'm going to order a slinger, but since it's behind the rear bearing I wouldn't see how it would make a difference for setup purposes. Is this correct?
To get your pinion depth and check your pattern you don't need all that. You just need a washer, a spacer of some sort, and an old pinion nut. to snug up the pinion. Making a set up bearing from a NEW inner pinion bearing is the easiest .. That way you don't have to keep pressing the bearing on and off to add or remove shims.
Old 02-14-2016, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jtphoto JK
To get your pinion depth and check your pattern you don't need all that. You just need a washer, a spacer of some sort, and an old pinion nut. to snug up the pinion. Making a set up bearing from a NEW inner pinion bearing is the easiest .. That way you don't have to keep pressing the bearing on and off to add or remove shims.
Yeah I have both inner and outer pinion bearings shaved out to use as set up bearings. They're new from autozone. Not sure exactly what you mean by a washer and spacer?
Old 02-14-2016, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
Yeah I have both inner and outer pinion bearings shaved out to use as set up bearings. They're new from autozone. Not sure exactly what you mean by a washer and spacer?
A spacer (piece of pipe 1 1/2" long, big enough to fit over the pinion shaft) to take the place of the flange and a washer to take the place of the slinger..
Old 02-15-2016, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jtphoto JK
A spacer (piece of pipe 1 1/2" long, big enough to fit over the pinion shaft) to take the place of the flange and a washer to take the place of the slinger..
What's the benefit to that over simply using the flange? I have 3 of them laying around so I've just been using one and then torquing the but down on it..
Old 02-15-2016, 04:39 AM
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Pack everything on one side and then split it to start
Old 02-15-2016, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bostonbilly
Pack everything on one side and then split it to start
I was looking for a starting point on the pinion, not the carrier as I do have the old shims from it. Thank you though.
Old 02-15-2016, 07:16 AM
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Sorry I misread, I thought carrier.
Old 02-15-2016, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
What's the benefit to that over simply using the flange? I have 3 of them laying around so I've just been using one and then torquing the but down on it..
The flanges I had were snug on the new pinion splines, so the pipe spacer was faster on, faster off. If the flange works for you, do as you wish.

As for the starting point, they seem to vary. My D44 front was .044 and the D30 I did last week had no pinion shims at all ..

Last edited by jtphoto JK; 02-15-2016 at 04:02 PM.
Old 02-15-2016, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jtphoto JK
The flanges I had were snug on the new pinion splines, so the pipe spacer was faster on, faster off. If the flange works for you, do as you wish. As for the starting point, they seem to vary. My D44 front was .044 and the D30 I did last week had no pinion shims at all ..
Do you have any more insight as to the pattern in my other thread? I've tried more resistance and pretty much every amount of pressures I could and still getting the same pattern...


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