Shim starting thickness
#11
The install kit is a Yukon. From everything I can find, the pinion baffle and oil slinger look the exact same. There was only 1 in the kit, so we put in behind the inner pinion bearing, in the back there's only the race, bearing, and then the flange and nut. Is this correct? I'm going to order a slinger, but since it's behind the rear bearing I wouldn't see how it would make a difference for setup purposes. Is this correct?
#12
JK Super Freak
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The install kit is a Yukon. From everything I can find, the pinion baffle and oil slinger look the exact same. There was only 1 in the kit, so we put in behind the inner pinion bearing, in the back there's only the race, bearing, and then the flange and nut. Is this correct? I'm going to order a slinger, but since it's behind the rear bearing I wouldn't see how it would make a difference for setup purposes. Is this correct?
#13
To get your pinion depth and check your pattern you don't need all that. You just need a washer, a spacer of some sort, and an old pinion nut. to snug up the pinion. Making a set up bearing from a NEW inner pinion bearing is the easiest .. That way you don't have to keep pressing the bearing on and off to add or remove shims.
#15
What's the benefit to that over simply using the flange? I have 3 of them laying around so I've just been using one and then torquing the but down on it..
#17
#19
JK Super Freak
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As for the starting point, they seem to vary. My D44 front was .044 and the D30 I did last week had no pinion shims at all ..
Last edited by jtphoto JK; 02-15-2016 at 04:02 PM.
#20
The flanges I had were snug on the new pinion splines, so the pipe spacer was faster on, faster off. If the flange works for you, do as you wish. As for the starting point, they seem to vary. My D44 front was .044 and the D30 I did last week had no pinion shims at all ..