Which shaft 1st
11-12-2010, 01:17 PM
#1
JK Freak
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Which shaft 1st
I'm at the 500 break in period on my new gears so it's time to change the fluid. I figured I may as put on ARB diff covers at this time. And I figured I could change out one drive shaft also. I'm going to need to change them both sooner or later.
So,,, knowing only 1 can be done at this time,, which should it be? And why?
So,,, knowing only 1 can be done at this time,, which should it be? And why?
11-12-2010, 01:41 PM
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11-12-2010, 02:02 PM
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08 2 dr Jeep Green Sahara
Auto & 5:13's 2.5" OME lift & long travel shocks
1 3/4" Daystar coil spacers
Auto & 5:13's 2.5" OME lift & long travel shocks
1 3/4" Daystar coil spacers
Get under there and look at both. Is the front boot torn? Is the front rzeppa spitting grease? Is the rear rzeppa spitting? Replace the one that is in the worst shape.
If both are about the same, replace the rear first. --> it is the one that is used about 100% of the time, right? (And worst case, you can drive without the front until you get around to replacing it. The rear is a bit more needed)
Last edited by nthinuf; 11-12-2010 at 02:06 PM.
11-12-2010, 02:13 PM
#4
Former Vendor
For a 2 Door with only 1 3/4" spring spacers, we would definitely recommend doing the rear first. If it was a 4 door, it would be the front first!
Good Luck with your build.
Rock Krawler
Good Luck with your build.
Rock Krawler
11-12-2010, 03:46 PM
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Look again folks...
2door with OME coils + spacers = somewhere around 4.5-5" of lift.
Waiting to hear what shape both shafts are in now. If the lift has been on for a while, my guess is that they are both spitting grease.
2door with OME coils + spacers = somewhere around 4.5-5" of lift.
Waiting to hear what shape both shafts are in now. If the lift has been on for a while, my guess is that they are both spitting grease.
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11-12-2010, 04:33 PM
#8
JK Freak
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The lift has been on for about 4000 miles I suppose. And most of the wheeling it see's is dirt or mud trails. No rock action yet.
Here are a couple pictures of the shafts.
11-12-2010, 05:52 PM
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Concerning the front shaft, the OP has an auto, so needs to be concerned about ripping that big boot when flexing also. Not a big issue with your manual, but has to be figured into the discussion of which of his shafts to replace first...
And HDRider - is there a ring of grease on the undercarriage above pic 2?
And just for grins, here is the blurb from the faq's:
Q: Are new driveshafts needed after installing a lift?
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
A: You really should consider installing a new rear double cardin U-joint style drive shaft if you have lifted your Jeep JK Wrangler 3" or more and have a 2-door. This is needed because the short rear drive shaft of the 2-doors will be at a steep enough angle that the CV boots will wear out prematurely. However, in order to do this, you will need to buy a set of rear adjustable upper control arms so that you can properly set your pinion angle. 4-Door Unlimited models do not have this problem as their rear drive shafts are very long and a lift will not effect the angle of it too much. As far as the front goes, if you have an automatic transmission, you will need to replace the drive shaft with a double cardin U-joint style unit as well as the diameter of aftermarket shafts will be considerably narrower and will not come into contact with the transmission and/or skid plate. Failure to do this will result in the tearing of the factory drive shaft boot as it makes contact with the transmission. Manual transmissions will not have this problem and keeping the factory front drive shaft will not be a problem.
Last edited by nthinuf; 11-12-2010 at 05:59 PM.