Semi float 60 ... let's hear from some who run or have run them!
#21
So I found the wheel adapaters through EZ Accessory to change the front wheel bolt pattern to 8 lug. Is it really that simple? lol ... this is the solution I was looking for. I also looked into the Artec kits for Superduty axles, and it certainly does look like I could do this swap! Thanks for sharing one more post in a way I could understand it better. The wheel bolt pattern issue was really causing me some headache and confusion as I though there was no way to do just the rear for now and later add the front 60. A couple more questions:
Artec mentions the fuel tank will be in the way for the rear swap do to the offset differential. It mentions having to swap the tank on a 4 door to a 2 door, but it does not mention if there is an issue installing the axle into a 2 door. I will call them and get more info.
It appears as though Artec has this all figured out! I have a lot of connections in the recycled parts arena, so getting a good deal on a ste of Superduty axles should not be an issue. What would be considered a good price for each and or the pair? Artec provides the year range, so I guess that is all I would need to ensure I get the correct axles, that and making sure they are 60's and not 50's, per Artec. This could be done through a vin decoder to get the options sight unseen.
As far as welding the Artec kit, are the differentials cast? If so, I would likely need to take them to a welder as I am only proficient in mig welding, and welding the cast steel to plate steel would require no-rod welding.
You just made my day Invest2m4! Thanks!!!
Artec mentions the fuel tank will be in the way for the rear swap do to the offset differential. It mentions having to swap the tank on a 4 door to a 2 door, but it does not mention if there is an issue installing the axle into a 2 door. I will call them and get more info.
It appears as though Artec has this all figured out! I have a lot of connections in the recycled parts arena, so getting a good deal on a ste of Superduty axles should not be an issue. What would be considered a good price for each and or the pair? Artec provides the year range, so I guess that is all I would need to ensure I get the correct axles, that and making sure they are 60's and not 50's, per Artec. This could be done through a vin decoder to get the options sight unseen.
As far as welding the Artec kit, are the differentials cast? If so, I would likely need to take them to a welder as I am only proficient in mig welding, and welding the cast steel to plate steel would require no-rod welding.
You just made my day Invest2m4! Thanks!!!
The fuel tank is not an issue on the 2-door as it is shorter. It can be on a 4-door due to the longer tank. However, I know several 4-doors running the Sterling without issue. If anything, a person just needs to dent the skid plate a little.
So, there is 99-04 and 05+. Different axles, different swap kits. All 05+ are D60s. It is 50s and 60s in 99-04. The 05+ D60 is like a D60 on steroids. It's a freaking beast. The 99-04 can end up costing more to build. Reason is that it uses 30 spline outer axle shafts (inner are 35). The unit bearings aren't as strong as the 05+ either. So, people upgrade to a Currie unit bearing that is also upgraded to a 35 spline outer. The 05+ is already 35 spline all the way around. Ball joints and knuckles are bigger on the 05+ as well.
As for tone rings, there is a Dodge sensor that plugs into the Frod axle perfectly and right into the JK plug. The rear just gets rings added to the hubs. Mine worked flawlessly the second I started the Jeep back up.
Anyway, feel free to PM me with questions.
#22
The 99-04 60 is still a good axle though. I just recommend the Currie upgrade which gets you 35 spline outers, a better unit bearing, has the JK tone ring in it, and you can choose your bolt pattern. Ends up costing more than building an 05+ though.
There is a 10" ring gear option up to a certain ratio as well. Or, if you really need the beef, Jantz makes a kit that lets you run a D70 gear set up front. So, if you have an LS and 43" stickies, that may be the ticket.
#23
I just read the Superduty Bilble, and it shows you had to modify the cast housing. Has Artec made a different kit since you did the write up? Their website states for the front 60 as follows: Simply tack weld the truss together, place it on the axle and all the other brackets fit into place exactly where they need to be. Am I missing something???
#24
I just read the Superduty Bilble, and it shows you had to modify the cast housing. Has Artec made a different kit since you did the write up? Their website states for the front 60 as follows: Simply tack weld the truss together, place it on the axle and all the other brackets fit into place exactly where they need to be. Am I missing something???
#25
Correct, there are "tons" of them. I can pick them up in my area starting around $250. I just started buying some. After building mine, people kept asking if I'd make one for them. So, figured I'd just keep making turn key axles until there's no more demand. Now people can have a bolt in D60 front for the price of a PR44. Also building a 99-04 front. Someone wanted to go the Currie unit bearing route. A little more money, but nice setup and you get to choose the bolt pattern. Ideal for someone not running a Sterling rear. So, you could just buy a UD60 rear to match the D60 front. Or a 14 bolt. I'm just not a fan of the 14 bolt. Sterling or D60 imo.
Thx
#26
#27
2005-2010 for sure. Rear axle changed in 2011 and is a no go. I believe newer front axles work, but I don't know that for fact. The one issue could be a tone ring change in the hubs. That can be looked up by part number though.
#29
The 05+ Super duty axle is the strongest of all the 1ton front axles. They are also cheap and easy to find, but there is a lot of work involved in getting them preped and a lot of welding/grinding. But in the end you have an a axle stronger and half the cost of other options.