Yeah, you are right. I will be buying a free float 60 or rebuilding my 44. I simply cannot afford to go with full 60's and full float along with wheels and all the goodies at this time, and I need to get things rolling (pun intended). The semi-float should be plenty of axle for my application and intended use.

I did see that your friend has a 60. What are the chances it has 4.88 gears and an Eaton E--Locker? If I have to change over components, it will likely not be cost effective. I can get a new TF CRD60 with the E-Locker and shafts in the correct gearing for around $3300. Your friends 60 would have to be a steal to be cost effective with shipping. However, I am willing to entertain the idea if it sounds like we could work a deal.

As far as asking questions, is that not what a forum is all about? I am learning and trying to make the best, educated decision that fits within my budget. Too bad we all do not have the funds for 60's all around and or the technical know how, all the right tools, space, and time to build them from recycled parts.

 

I have run the rear TF semi float 60 for a few years. Bent 3 shafts and replaced bearings. I am very hard on the axle.

If I did it again (which may still happen), I would be building junk yard axles...

 

But you do. I wasn't born knowing how to build an axle. I know Maertz wasn't either. It takes a little effort and research, but it is worth it in the end. Not to mention, you save money in the process. Even just a couple years ago, yeah, fairly complicated. Today, not at all. Artec makes a simple kit that welds on. ABS is retained. Rear axles barely have any brackets on them. A $20 angle grinder from harbor freight and 30 min of your time, and done. Take axle to local drive train shop, have them install gears and locker. While there, ask them to check the hubs out to make sure the bearings are good.

Install your new full float axle. It's wider than the front, so get adapters for the front to match the bolt pattern. Sell wheels, get new wheels. Net/net, probably break even vs. a semi-float, but now you have a full float and a lot more value in your Jeep.

In the future, upgrade the front axle with a free-spin kit or build a 60 over time.

Regardless, I see no reason not to just buy the UD60 and run adapters in the front. Yeah, you need new wheels, but not a huge cost since you can sell the ones you have.

 

Seems the most cost effective axle upgrade move is to swap in Post-2005 Super Duty axles using the Artec kit. You can get a set fairly easily via LKQ or other dismantlers. Numerous threads on the forums with the how-tos. Artec seems to be the oracle regarding tone ring & ABS sensor swapping to make it all go smoothly. Lots of locker/gearing options. Worth investigating. The 6.0 Powerstroke was such a catastrophe many of those trucks went to the scrapyard early.

 

Will you please provide the info for the front wheel bolt pattern kit? I will look into the Artec kit and see what it entails. This idea sounds more feasible. I thought I would have to do the front and rear 60's at the same time.

 

So I found the wheel adapaters through EZ Accessory to change the front wheel bolt pattern to 8 lug. Is it really that simple? lol ... this is the solution I was looking for. I also looked into the Artec kits for Superduty axles, and it certainly does look like I could do this swap! Thanks for sharing one more post in a way I could understand it better. The wheel bolt pattern issue was really causing me some headache and confusion as I though there was no way to do just the rear for now and later add the front 60. A couple more questions:

Artec mentions the fuel tank will be in the way for the rear swap do to the offset differential. It mentions having to swap the tank on a 4 door to a 2 door, but it does not mention if there is an issue installing the axle into a 2 door. I will call them and get more info.

It appears as though Artec has this all figured out! I have a lot of connections in the recycled parts arena, so getting a good deal on a ste of Superduty axles should not be an issue. What would be considered a good price for each and or the pair? Artec provides the year range, so I guess that is all I would need to ensure I get the correct axles, that and making sure they are 60's and not 50's, per Artec. This could be done through a vin decoder to get the options sight unseen.

As far as welding the Artec kit, are the differentials cast? If so, I would likely need to take them to a welder as I am only proficient in mig welding, and welding the cast steel to plate steel would require no-rod welding.

You just made my day Invest2m4! Thanks!!!

 

....Also thanks to SoK66 for the Artec info! You guys are awesome!!!

 

These guys will make them and they are top quality. Basically, you bolt it on like your wheel, then it has studs for the new bolt pattern. Works perfect because then the width will be closer to the rear. Stock JK axle is 65.5" wide and most one ton tears are around 69.5".

https://www.motorsport-tech.com/wheel_adapters.html

 

Correct, there are "tons" of them. I can pick them up in my area starting around $250. I just started buying some. After building mine, people kept asking if I'd make one for them. So, figured I'd just keep making turn key axles until there's no more demand. Now people can have a bolt in D60 front for the price of a PR44. Also building a 99-04 front. Someone wanted to go the Currie unit bearing route. A little more money, but nice setup and you get to choose the bolt pattern. Ideal for someone not running a Sterling rear. So, you could just buy a UD60 rear to match the D60 front. Or a 14 bolt. I'm just not a fan of the 14 bolt. Sterling or D60 imo.

 

2005 seems to be the break point for Super Duty axles. What's the difference vs the earlier ones? I know there are some pre '05s with Dana 50 front axles.