School me on Tie Rods
#11
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If it's using a castle nut without a hole in the rod to put a pin through it to prevent the castle nut from rotating, then that's either a really bad design or something isn't right where either way, I would return it.
The different ends sounds fishy as well, but without seeing if they're using 2 different types of joints, it's hard to say since I've never seen a Crown TR in person. Typically Crown makes OEM knock-off parts and when I look at the pic below of the Crown kit, it sounds like you may be missing some parts, such as a tie rod end.
The bottom rod in the picture below is my stock TR which I replaced. So looking at that picture above of the Crown kit, that bottom rod looks like the TR....but it looks like it needs that TR end underneath it.
The different ends sounds fishy as well, but without seeing if they're using 2 different types of joints, it's hard to say since I've never seen a Crown TR in person. Typically Crown makes OEM knock-off parts and when I look at the pic below of the Crown kit, it sounds like you may be missing some parts, such as a tie rod end.
The bottom rod in the picture below is my stock TR which I replaced. So looking at that picture above of the Crown kit, that bottom rod looks like the TR....but it looks like it needs that TR end underneath it.
Yes there is a pin hole for a cotter key on the stud with a castle nut....i contacted Crown earlier today to hear what they had to say about this issue and I was told the TR is assembled in house but the TR ends come from different suppliers. still not a definitive answer to why it’s like that but they say it meets oem standards.
#12
JK Junkie
I don't trust Crown not to use sub-standard parts and say it "meets OEM standards". It's not like FCA publishes OEM standards for the aftermarket, it's reverse engineered and that adds both subjectivity and error.
Suggest checking the hardness grade marks on the top of the nylock nut. IMHO it should be grade 8 (10.9 if it's metric) -- Betting a virtual beer it's not...
EDIT: Just checked the OEM TRE locknuts on my '08 and didn't see the marks I was expecting. Using a mirror, so maybe I missed the markings or am just plain wrong about the proper grade hardware.
Suggest checking the hardness grade marks on the top of the nylock nut. IMHO it should be grade 8 (10.9 if it's metric) -- Betting a virtual beer it's not...
EDIT: Just checked the OEM TRE locknuts on my '08 and didn't see the marks I was expecting. Using a mirror, so maybe I missed the markings or am just plain wrong about the proper grade hardware.
Last edited by Mr.T; 11-06-2019 at 12:45 PM.
#13
Super Moderator
Yes there is a pin hole for a cotter key on the stud with a castle nut....i contacted Crown earlier today to hear what they had to say about this issue and I was told the TR is assembled in house but the TR ends come from different suppliers. still not a definitive answer to why it’s like that but they say it meets oem standards.
#15
Super Moderator
For a supposed new part, I'm not liking that at all. The side with the castle nut looks like it is pulled in too far since the cotter pin is essentially doing nothing and the side with the lock nut having no zerk really has me confused. Is there such a thing as a maintenance free, non greaseable tie rod end?
#16
Super Moderator
But I agree- the cotter key should be in a key way on the castle nut otherwise it isn't doing any good. OP- did to grease that joint? The boot looks collapsed which usually means it's empty.
#17
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#18
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