BlackBetty2007

I know there are numerous discussions about running a flip drag link or a drop pitman arm, but I have not seen anything on running both of them at the same time. I have a 2007 JKU with a 6" lift. The lift kit utilized a drop pitman arm and a track bar relocation bracket to correct the geometry. However, I feel like that if I also ran a flip drag link it would put the track bar and pitman arm right on the same parallel plane. Anyone ever heard of anyone running both and any issues with doing this?
As pictured, they are both right together on the driver side and move away from each other as you move to the passenger side.

hivoltagedriver

Are you experiencing bump steer, or have some other specific reason to make this change? You know the old saying - "if it ain't broke..."
Speaking of which, that money might be better spent on fixing that oil leak

Personally, I don't think that your angle of separation dictates making any changes. If you are going to make changes though, I'd get rid of the drop pitman arm (excessive leverage on gear box), and then look at modifying your track bar to correct geometry.

As a side note, WTF are you running 6" of lift? I am sitting at ~4.5" and running 40s with PLENTY of suspension travel.

BlackBetty2007

Ok thanks for the input. 6” Bc I just bought it and that’s how she came.

nthinuf

I have not seen anyone try this in the time I have been a member here.

Take a side-to-side picture showing both ends of the draglink and trackbar in the same pic. Open it in Paint or whatever editor and draw straight lines from mounting point to mounting point of each bar. Those two lines should be roughly parallel, and will remain roughly parallel after a draglink flip (plus trackbar bracket) or a drop pitman (plus trackbar bracket).

A Draglink Flip PLUS a Drop Pitman may have the Draglink more parallel to the ground, but NOT parallel with the Trackbar anymore. Unless you are planning on running both axle AND frame trackbar brackets(?) Can it be done? Sure. Would I want to run that setup? No. But it's your jeep...




Did a quick Image search on yahoo and thought this one might put it into some perspective. The factory bars are bent, so drawing lines between the mount points on both ends of each bar lets you better see what is actually going on.
Note that the person who uploaded this pic titled it "Bumpsteer", because, as you can see, those two bars are not quite parallel to each other anymore. Which is where you will end up by flipping the draglink to the top of the knuckle. (unless you also move the other end of the trackbar with a second bracket)

resharp001

Y, not to just pile on here, but I don't think a single one of us would say another good about running 6" of lift outside of "it's your jeep, do what you want". I'd say a better option than thinking of the double DL mod is to bring that jeep down a bit so that a normal high steer kit is adequate. I can't say I've seen anyone suggest this ever before. I would think that once the DL and TB move back out of running parallel to each other, you're going to start getting bump steer or some weird reactions just as if they were out of parallel at a lower height (more normal situation).

BlackBetty2007

Really appreciate all the help. As it's a new jeep, I am still trying to figure a lot about the history/modifications to this Jeep. The previous owner said it's a 6" Rough Country lift, but from all the measurements I have done it's more like right at 4". I don't know if it is really a 4" RC lift or a sagging 6" RC lift as I understand they are prone to do. Further, the caster angle is way off and that is likely due to the reason that this thing somehow still has factory control arms. I have also seen where the RC drop pitman arm is well, crap, and can cause steering wheel vibration.

All that to say, my plan right now is to replace the RC drop pitman arm with a quality forged stock drop pitman arm and install a quality drag link flip. I am also going to install a full set of adjustable control arms. That should get my geometry back right. If after that I don't like the way she's riding, I'll look at better springs and shocks (which I will replace at some point, either way bc once again I am aware the RC stuff is not the best)

karls10jk

I saw your thread earlier and with the drop pitman arm, I knew where it was headed. I ran across the one below on eBay today. It's not mine but the price seems right and I don't see why you couldn't ditch your dropped pitman arm for $20 for someone doing a custom build or someone that is building purely for looks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324497706684

nthinuf

What is the current Caster?

Look for Cam Bolts on the lower arms. It could just be that they have slipped and the caster is low again. If you find that you do have Cams, and you decide to spend the money on new arms, think about what you want to do about those bolts.

BlackBetty2007

Thank you, I will climb under and take a gander.

Update: no cam bolts - thankfully!

TheDirtman

Well, the answer to your original question is yes. You can run both a drop pitman and a drag link flip. you would also have to either raise the axle side track bar about 3" higher or run a drop frame side bracket to keep the drag link and the track bar paralell. I would not recommend it for you and would steer you towards a good quality 3.5" coil with a drag proper drag link flip and factory pitman arm.

From the photos it looks like a 4" lift is what is intalled on that thing.