Rugged ridge A pillar switch
03-05-2013, 08:15 AM
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Rugged ridge A pillar switch
Another RR switch question!!!
I have 0 knoledge when it comes to wiring and such, but very interested in this hardware. I was wondering if i am able to set the switches for my headlights, bumper fog lights, then the last 2 for 2 sets of KC lights for the switches. Do i need to buy anything else besides the RR mount w/ switches? Is this even achievable? Thanks a lot!
I have 0 knoledge when it comes to wiring and such, but very interested in this hardware. I was wondering if i am able to set the switches for my headlights, bumper fog lights, then the last 2 for 2 sets of KC lights for the switches. Do i need to buy anything else besides the RR mount w/ switches? Is this even achievable? Thanks a lot!
03-05-2013, 10:26 AM
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First off, I'm assuming we're talking about this product: Rugged Ridge 17235.96 - Rugged Ridge Driver Side A-Pillar Switch Pod Kit for 11-13 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec
Wiring and electrical stuff isn't hard, you just have to commit a little time to reading. HowStuffWorks.com is an awesome resource.
Second, yes you can control all of those things with the switches, but why would you want another switch to control your headlights? And I'm assuming you have factory fog lights in the bumper, or are you talking about aftermarket fogs? Anything already controlled by the Jeep from the factory is an absolute pain to bypass and control yourself with another switch.
For the RR kit, it comes with the panel, and four switches. You have to provide the wiring and connectors, as far as I know, which any automotive parts store will carry and happily rip you off price-wise. To control lights, however, switches get overloaded fairly quickly, unless you're using LED lights. There's a lot of power used running lights. You need to add a secondary switch, called a relay (standard automotive 12V relay), to handle the real power — one relay for each switch. They look like this: Wurton 82710 - WURTON 5-Prong Relay (40A-12V) - Quadratec and are mounted close to your battery, or really anywhere in the engine bay.
For each pair of lights, a relay is connected to the battery and the lights. The switches in your Jeep are connected to the battery (or other 12V power source) and the relay. When you flip the switch in the Jeep, it sends a very weak signal to the relay, telling it to turn the lights on. So, in reality, the switch in the cab of your Jeep is really just controlling its relay, which does the turning on and off of your lights.
[The reason is because MOST switches are rated for about 5 amp (5A) circuits. It looks like the switches that RR sends with the A-pillar pod are rated for 20A ... better safe than sorry. Using super whiz math, the maximum wattage (W) one of those normal switches can handle without heating up and melting into goo is about 60W. SO you could run ONE 60W light, and that would be the switch's capacity ... above that and it'll get too warm and melt. For a pair of 150W driving lights, for example, that's 150W for EACH LIGHT. So 300W total. 300W / 14 Vdc (volts direct current, which is the voltage most vehicles run on when the motor is running) = 21A. Now, you may be able to get away with running the lights directly off that 20A RR switch, but 100% of electrically-educated people will suggest a relay anyway. Most automotive relays are rated for 40A. That's why we use them to safety run lights and other high current circuits.]
Each relay has four connections on it (ground, battery, lights, and switch+). Your switches will have three connections on them, power in (from your 12V source), power out (to the relay), and ground (so the switch indicator light works). This is where the reading comes in — nobody wants to hold hands. Google is your friends (search "how to install an automotive relay" or something similar ... there are numerous write-ups that show step by step how to install lights).
For wiring, I'd use 18-20 AWG size wire for anything on the switch side of the circuit. Use 12 AWG size wire for anything connected to the relay, except the wire going from the switch to the relay, since it's such a weak signal (you can use the 18-20 AWG wire for that, too). You're going to need female spade connectors for the switch and relay wiring (connectors are organized by the wire size they are designed to crimp to, so 18-20 AWG wire uses connectors rated made to fit securely on that size wire).
And of course FUSE!! Have an inline fuse going to EACH relay (each circuit), to protect your components and beautiful Jeep from damage in case of short-circuits and other uh-ohs.
So, in essence, you've got some work to do, but it's ELEMENTARY. If you still don't know, ask here. We'll help. You'll have a cool setup in no time.
Wiring and electrical stuff isn't hard, you just have to commit a little time to reading. HowStuffWorks.com is an awesome resource.
Second, yes you can control all of those things with the switches, but why would you want another switch to control your headlights? And I'm assuming you have factory fog lights in the bumper, or are you talking about aftermarket fogs? Anything already controlled by the Jeep from the factory is an absolute pain to bypass and control yourself with another switch.
For the RR kit, it comes with the panel, and four switches. You have to provide the wiring and connectors, as far as I know, which any automotive parts store will carry and happily rip you off price-wise. To control lights, however, switches get overloaded fairly quickly, unless you're using LED lights. There's a lot of power used running lights. You need to add a secondary switch, called a relay (standard automotive 12V relay), to handle the real power — one relay for each switch. They look like this: Wurton 82710 - WURTON 5-Prong Relay (40A-12V) - Quadratec and are mounted close to your battery, or really anywhere in the engine bay.
For each pair of lights, a relay is connected to the battery and the lights. The switches in your Jeep are connected to the battery (or other 12V power source) and the relay. When you flip the switch in the Jeep, it sends a very weak signal to the relay, telling it to turn the lights on. So, in reality, the switch in the cab of your Jeep is really just controlling its relay, which does the turning on and off of your lights.
[The reason is because MOST switches are rated for about 5 amp (5A) circuits. It looks like the switches that RR sends with the A-pillar pod are rated for 20A ... better safe than sorry. Using super whiz math, the maximum wattage (W) one of those normal switches can handle without heating up and melting into goo is about 60W. SO you could run ONE 60W light, and that would be the switch's capacity ... above that and it'll get too warm and melt. For a pair of 150W driving lights, for example, that's 150W for EACH LIGHT. So 300W total. 300W / 14 Vdc (volts direct current, which is the voltage most vehicles run on when the motor is running) = 21A. Now, you may be able to get away with running the lights directly off that 20A RR switch, but 100% of electrically-educated people will suggest a relay anyway. Most automotive relays are rated for 40A. That's why we use them to safety run lights and other high current circuits.]
Each relay has four connections on it (ground, battery, lights, and switch+). Your switches will have three connections on them, power in (from your 12V source), power out (to the relay), and ground (so the switch indicator light works). This is where the reading comes in — nobody wants to hold hands. Google is your friends (search "how to install an automotive relay" or something similar ... there are numerous write-ups that show step by step how to install lights).
For wiring, I'd use 18-20 AWG size wire for anything on the switch side of the circuit. Use 12 AWG size wire for anything connected to the relay, except the wire going from the switch to the relay, since it's such a weak signal (you can use the 18-20 AWG wire for that, too). You're going to need female spade connectors for the switch and relay wiring (connectors are organized by the wire size they are designed to crimp to, so 18-20 AWG wire uses connectors rated made to fit securely on that size wire).
And of course FUSE!! Have an inline fuse going to EACH relay (each circuit), to protect your components and beautiful Jeep from damage in case of short-circuits and other uh-ohs.
So, in essence, you've got some work to do, but it's ELEMENTARY. If you still don't know, ask here. We'll help. You'll have a cool setup in no time.
Last edited by C2U5H; 03-05-2013 at 11:13 AM.