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Rubicrawler or Rubi transfer case?

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Old 04-13-2010, 09:45 PM
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Default Rubicrawler or Rubi transfer case?

I've got an X Unlimited Auto w/3.73 gears on 35s. I'd like more engine braking capability on steep downhill sections. With the superchips flashpaq, I can live with the 3.73 gears for a while.

While the Advanced Adapters Rubicrawler would offer a lower low-range, picking up a used Rubicon transfer case and adding the Teraflex 2-low kit seems like it would be pretty cost effective as well as fit in better with my rough plan of adding an Aussie locker to the front.

Two direct questions,
  1. Does the 241OR transfer case provide low enough gearing to allow engine-only braking on very steep down-hill sections (E.g., Red Cone in Colorado)?
  2. What's the street price for a used 241OR in good condition? I think that for a new case Mopar list is $2300, online is $1600. I'm guessing $600-800 or you may as well just spend the $1600 for the Rubicrawler.

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Old 04-14-2010, 04:07 AM
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When I get to that stage, I will be going to the Rubicrawler. Gives you more options for gear choices.
Old 04-14-2010, 06:54 AM
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I started with a 2007 Sahara Auto with trailer tow package(4:10's in 2007) I put an Aussie Locker in the front last May and had Teraflex Plus install my AA Rubicrawler last Oct. when I was in Utah. Unless you can get a Rubi 241OR real cheap I'd get the AA Rubicrawler. You get the 2 low 4Low 2:73 And 4Low/Low 7:4. I've read people complain about the 4:1 being to low for sand and mud and I know the 2:72 isn't low enough for crawling. How can you lose with multiple low ranges. Unless you can aford a Stak 3speed or Atlas 4speed I'd recomend an AA Rubicrawler. The hold back in low/low is great, you don't need brakes on steep decents. I wheeled in Moab for 2 weeks after I had it installed and was real happy with it. Don't forget to buck up for the blingy shifter upgrade, it looks better.
Old 04-14-2010, 06:58 AM
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wouldnt regearing have the effect you want and let the drivetrain operate at the proper rpms?
Old 04-14-2010, 09:04 AM
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5.13 axle gears will make a big difference over 3.73s in crawl ratio/ down hill engine braking. Much cheaper than a new case and needs to be done anyway with 35s. I would recommend this first.
Old 04-14-2010, 01:29 PM
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I'd go with a new atlas...

the stock JK transfer cases seem to be breaking alot to be throwing more money at it with a rubi crawler...


I plan on selling my rubicon case and picking up an atlas. the 2 low seems like a waste as well, I basically have it with my locking hubs, cant say I've ever had a reason to want 2 low
Old 04-14-2010, 01:32 PM
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gearing wise, i think the rubi t-case is fine but like piginajeep said, i've just been seeing way too many break that it would be hard to justify throwing money at it when you could save up and get something better. fwiw, i bought a fairly new/used rubi t-case for about $500 to replace the last one i had.
Old 04-14-2010, 01:45 PM
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If you have manual hubs you wouldn't need 2 low some of us don't. I find it good for putting around where you don't need 4x4 such as easier trails or hunting. I also have an Aussie in the front which the OP suggested putting his and with a non selectable locker up front its nice to be in low and just slide the transfercase to 4x4 when you need it. It turns so much easier that way. The Atlas 4 speed or Stak 3 speed would be the way to go I'm not going to argue that.
Old 04-14-2010, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK
If you have manual hubs you wouldn't need 2 low some of us don't. I find it good for putting around where you don't need 4x4 such as easier trails or hunting. I also have an Aussie in the front which the OP suggested putting his and with a non selectable locker up front its nice to be in low and just slide the transfercase to 4x4 when you need it. It turns so much easier that way. The Atlas 4 speed or Stak 3 speed would be the way to go I'm not going to argue that.
true. and, if you have manual hubs, i'd still say that running a factory rubi case is okay too. i am now and haven't had any problems. it when you don't have it and are running a u-joint style front shaft that you have problems. the vibes they can put out are ultimately what seems to be cracking the cases.



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