If I remember Way Of Life busted his ring, pinion , and carrier bearings on a set of 5:38's. Rule of thumb back in the day (Maybe still is??) was stay one ratio down from max allowable for the axle housings. I.E I have 5:13's in my 44's as 5:38's are the lowest there, and 4:88's should be for the d30 guys as 5:13's are the lowest ratio for that housing. As the ring gear gets smaller to make room for the now bigger pinion the power play shifts to the pinion's favor. I just err on the side of "safe" is all.

 

On my phone so ill can't quote and go back so ill respond a couple people at once...
Definitely like the quality time. I like learned about cars by doing just that than anything else. Seeing how it all goes together helps me understand more about it, an diagnose when things don't seem right.
Thank you for all the pricing with details and options. 60's sound amazing but I don't know if it will too much. Not looking at 40's in this jeeps life.
The lowest gearing ill go is 4.56 and probably stick to 4.10. I have a jku with stock rubi tires and 3.21's that its night and day from the TJ I had with 35's. I know there's a big difference there, but u think the knew motor/tranny can turn 35's with 4.10 just fine, especially if I have a 4:1 tcase.
So yes wheel it like you stole it!! Starting to lean towards the sport and seeing how it holds up and and if I need to I can upgrade later at half the price.
Don't shoot me, but, if I were to find a rear take off axle, could I use that up front? I should note I can't look at mine right now for reference, but I think the pumpkins are in the center so I could could flip it over if the direction the u-joints spin matters. Hopefully all that makes sense. Thanks guys for all the help this far.

 

lockers front and rear , d44 front , rock trac 4 to 1 transfere case , elec. swaybar disco . I don't think you could do all of this for 10 grand. If this is the stuff you want , and a warrantee , better off just getting it from the factory that way. When you are done doing all of this , you won't have a warrantee on your new jeep , and don't forget , it is a Chrysler product , you will need that warrantee!

 

you cant use a rear axle in the front. First of all, you need a turning axle with shorter tubes and outer C's. Secondly, the pumpkin needs to be offset so the driveshaft will clear the motor.

Also, I don't think you will be able to fix whatever you break for half the price. For my money, id rather do it right once and not waste money and down time getting towed out of a trail or sitting around waiting for replacement parts to come in.

 

You all mentioned something about the axles. I have a sport jk 2012 with stock axles for now. What are the splines or the parts that go in the axle for? and cant you just gusset the axle?

 

Im am confused about the new or next generation D30s and D44s, my 12 JKU has D30 up front, my dealer has its own offroad shop and does mods on jeeps up to 37" tires that i know of. I like many was going to ride out the D30 for a few years then upgrade to D44. I did however at the recommendation of other local wheelers decide to add C gussets. When i took it in to get it serviced the offroad mgr said he would gladly install them, however he said the new D30s are stronger than the older 30s and he would be surprised if i could ever damage the tubes or outer yolks. He told me the weak link is the actual shafts them selves, he also told me the outer spindles are the same part number for a 30 or 44. At this time i have decided to once again hold off adding any gussets. But when i read threads like this one i concern whether or not i am making a mistake. So far my JKU has performed flawlessly taking on several 5 & 6 rated trails and one 7 rated ( pritchet canyon) in Moab, plus miles and miles of local wheeling and crawling. So far every thing is still tight and and holding true. Getting close to 30k miles, we purchased the jeep for offroad traveling adventures, it had ended up being my DD as well. I know the 44 is a much better axle, but does anybody know if the newer D30s are better than older??

 

Don't know anything specific but, I've also heard the newer generation D30 is a lot stronger and a good deal of the hype about them blowing is from the guys that blew up the older generations...

That being said...I've also seen pictures of and read a few accounts on here of people destroying their new D30.

Either way, I've had no issues with 35s on my front D30 and I plan on putting zero cash in to it...not paying for welded C's or even a diff cover unless the stock gets peeled off somehow.

 

$5200 gets you a front dynatrac prorock44 unlimted with rcv chromoly axle shafts, arb locker, dynatrac ball joints, 1310 or 1350 yoke, and gears of your choice fully assembled ready to bolt in. $4300 gets you a rear dynatrac trail series 60 with prorock housing upgrade, 35 spline chromoloy axle shafts, arb locker, 1350 yoke, and gears of your choice. $9500 for both front and rear. add $200 for compressor to operate lockers and $900 for new driveshafts. remember that driveshafts come with the territiory if u are gonna lift your jeep. a stock rubi does not even come close to comparing to this setup. the e-disco is a waste anyways. there are tons of posts about them breaking and malfunctioning. if u don't wanna manually disco buy a antirock.

remember that a stock rubi still needs to be beefed just the same as a d30. sleeves and gussets for sure. it doesnt have chromoly shafts, or even better, rcv shafts. it will need to be regeared if u wanna go 37's. the ball joints suck and will fail fairly quickly with 35's as a few minutes of research on this forum will tell you. buy a rubi for 6-7k more than a sport. add sleeves and gussets for about 800. add dynatrac ball joints for $550 plus labor of about $400. add rcv's up front for $1100.
there's 10k and the rear is still stock.
10750 will get you a dynatrac 44 front and 60 rear fully locked and built, new driveshafts front/rear, and a compressor. $125 will get you your quick disconnects if they don't already come with your lift kit. the wild card is the t-case. is the 4:1 really necessary? if so get a rubi crawler and u can select between 4:1 and 8:1 while crawling. its really a no brainer if u really wanna build it. i laugh when i see clowns buy a rubi and brag about getting 60's front and rear.

 

I agree with this. Also someone mentioned warranty. Id personally rather have the heavier gear and the warranty from Dynatrac then the warranty from Chrysler with the idea that I am not supposed to take my Jeep offroad in the first place so sorry it is no longer covered.

 

We find a lot of guys buy Sports or other models because they would rather spend the extra funds on beefier parts. Many of the buyers of 12's seem to have already had earlier JKs and learned not to dump much money in the existing axles. It's quite common to talk with guys about new axles while they're waiting for their new rigs to arrive. Obviously, it's not for everyone but if you can do it, it will save you time, hassle and $$$ if you can do it before adding any cash to your stock axles. There's always a market for good stock axles. Their resale is much better if they're not destroyed.

The Rubi Transfer case isn't for everyone. 4-1 is great for some areas but an Auto trans driver will frequently find them too low for typical woods driving.