Leelootherubi

So when I got my rubicon it already had disconnects on the sway bar links. As I found out the sway bar had shat the bed. Seems to be a common thing from what I've read. I tried in plugging it and plugging it back in it is dead. The light just flashes when I hit the button. So I pinned up the disconnects and on even a lil turn and a wheel up say on the height of a curb my tire is rubbing on the links hard. I have 35s lifted and aftermarket wheels with more than stock backspace. What is everyone doing to keep the links out of the tires when disconnected. And what is the fix for the rubicon sway bar. I don't want to go stock but I don't want the stupid light on. I've read that there are tuners out there that can program that light off

jedg

Easiest is to use an EVO MG NoLimits manual sway bar disconnect. Cheap and works like a champ. You can turn the flashing light off with an AEV procal.

https://www.offroadevolution.com/pro...onnect-jk-jku/

Leelootherubi

Now with the manual set up installed and unlocked how much articulation is there is it conperable to being fully disconnected ? I never have the sway bar working properly to know how far it moves

Biginboca

If your swaybar links are properly adjusted and you have 12" or less travel shocks then rubicon disco and conventional quick disco's both yield the same travel.

This image is with using my rubicon disconnect only, swaybar links still attached..

jedg

Yup what he ^^^ said.

I have to trouble using the Rubicon disconnect with the links still connected.

karls10jk

Where did this piece of info come from? I've got a friend with RK 3.5" x factor/ fox shocks on his Rubicon and we got another 1-2" out of removing the sway bar vs just hitting the button. Links are parallel as they were from the factory and how they are supposed to be set. This was under full articulation, something along the lines of Metalcloak's CTI ramp but a ditch instead.

jedg

I think the sway bar is parallel to +5 deg from the ground. I have mine set to +5 deg and with it set that way, I am within 1/2" when fully disconnected versus using the Rubicon manual swap. I don't remember the numbers other than within 1/2". That was on an RTI.

Perhaps a difference in the suspensions? I'm running RK springs (3.5" triple rate) and all control arms are Currie with Johnny Joints. Running OME LT shocks. ??

Biginboca

Depending on how much droop vs uptravel you have running the links parallel to the frame may not be the best. I run my links longer so my swaybar is like 10* inclined because I'm running about 4" uptravel and 8" droop. Every set up is different but it can definitely work for 12" travel you just need to adjust the link lengths to work for your set up.

Here you can get an idea of how long mine are set...