Bc chromoly aftermarket axles provide an additional level of comfort when running 35s...37s...

... and these would offer more “comfort” still
https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemb...r-jeep-jk.html

While NO setup is “bulletproof”, chromoly after market axles with some additional help such as trusses, c-gussets, and u-joint upgrades will certainly be stronger and offer more peace of mind even if only hitting the rocks ONCE a year. And the aforementioned full axle swap will increase said peace of mind.

 

For what it's worth, around my area stock rubi axles fetch between $3k - $3500, and the e-disco about $350. Factory D30/44 combo is $1k-$1300 maybe. So, if you can find a rubi within $2500 of a sport, you're pretty much getting the TC for free if you look at it that way....or if paying more than $2500 difference, that is the cost of your TC and maybe a few more luxuries.

For someone that is mainly pavement, I'd say 4.88 is ideal for 37s, BUT, if you're going to wheel the thing lower is better....5.13. 5.38 is too low though unless it's just a trail rig that's towed everywhere. If you have a rubi TC, definitely 4.88 would be the way to go cuz that 4.1 TC gonna take care of your offroad issues. if you have the sport, then you'd want to go that extra bit lower.

 

I certainly agree that the aftermarket axles would be stronger and offer peace of mind... but $10K+ is expensive peace of mind...

My Rubi (3.6/6-speed) has 4.56's with 35's. It's a pretty good combo.

 

[QUOTE=bkg;4346204]I certainly agree that the aftermarket axles would be stronger and offer peace of mind... but $10K+ is expensive peace of mind...


... that it is, no doubt. That’s why I’ve been weighing the options of sport vs Rubi. If the Rubi all thing else being the same is 5k more expensive than the sport. And the Rubi (in my opinion) would still need new chromoly axles front and rear. Re-geared. Cs. And trussed. So that extra 5k for the Rubi is now what, 7? 7+?. That makes the 5k saving for the sport that much more palatable Bc now that 5k has cut my new crate axle set price in HALF. And those axles will be stronger and more capable to boot.

 

If I bought new I would go Sport. Then I would do suspension, shocks, sway bar disconnect, gears (no more than 4.88 if you are running 37" tires) and lockers. That should eat up the difference between the Rubicon and would make a Jeep pretty much like a Ruby. Only other thing I would splurge on is perhaps an Atlas TC. The gearing would be a compromise as you say rocks only 2 or 3 times a year.

 

Assuming you'll go with an auto trans, to me, it depends on the trails you do the rest of the year. If you're always doing slow trails the Rubi T-case is ok. If you're doing more open trails or mud you'll want the sport t-case. I've only wished for a lower t-case a handful of times. I have friends that have changed out their 3.8 or 4.3 Atlas' for 3.0. Other friends have changed out their Rubi cases because they were in and out of high range too much.

 

does AA still make the rubi-crawler? If so, I may have to change my vote...

 

This exactly. Was talking it over with a friend and if I were to recreate my JK, I'd skip the Rubicon package as the only thing left that is Rubicon is the transfer case. For the sticker difference, you'd be money ahead to go with a sport and swap the case to a factory Rubicon, or an Atlas twin stick for not much more.

On the bright side, you're already ahead of the game knowing that it's a waste of time and money to do all the "upgrades" to a 44 platform and expect them to live with 37's. I'm running 5.38's with 40's and I've never trailered it anywhere. I've also got the mighty 3.8 and a 4 speed, so I need that extra help. I've driven her to Moab 3 times now from Phoenix, taken her to San Carlos, Mexico (about 400 miles the other direction) and never missed a beat.

 

They still make it for the 07-11 JK (with auto trans). It's a great option!

 

I've built 2 JK's similarly to your end goal, both Rubicons, both built myself in my driveway. If I were to do a 3rd I'd start with a bone stock highly optioned 2012+ Sport and add:
-Front ProRock/RockJock 44 Housing, Select-able Locker & Shafts
-Rear Regear 44 & add Select-able Locker (Its a very strong housing, a truss really isn't even necessary with 37's)
-Rubi 4:1 Tcase
-4.88's & 37's