Rubicon or Sport??
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Rubicon or Sport??
Just like the title says.
So here’s the deal. I currently have an 05 LJ Rubicon. I am selling. I am going to buy a ‘16-18 JKU. My plans are for 37s and some decent rocks 2-3 times a year. But I want it to be able to handle them.
So. Question is. Do I purchase a Rubicon, which will still need axles front and rear, c-gussets, truss, geared, and other accoutrements. OR do I purchase a sport, save the money on the Rubicon decal, buy axle assemblies from either Curie or Dynatrac (front and rear) and go that route?
Before everyone jumps in and lists all the things the Rubicons have, I get it. Front and rear 44s. Lockers front and rear. Electronic Disco. And the T-case.
So front and rear axles would be replaced anyway. And in then”sport” setup of my choice I’d have aftermarket 44s if not 44 front and 60 rear. Re-gear. Like I mentioned, strengthening the front and rear axle setups. The Discos are really not that important to me. A set of quick disconnects would do just fine for me.
So. It really all comes down to, is the T-case in a Rubi really that important that I should spend the extra money to have the Rubi even though I’ll be replacing and redoing so much that make the Rubi a Rubi?
Final set up, either way, would be 44s front and rear or 44/60. Chromoly axles. 3.5-4” lift. Drive shafts. Brakes. Flat fenders, And 37s.
Thoughts, opinions?
Just trying to decide where the money should be spent.
Thanks everyone, in advance.
Below is the LJ Rubi. Just for good measure.
So here’s the deal. I currently have an 05 LJ Rubicon. I am selling. I am going to buy a ‘16-18 JKU. My plans are for 37s and some decent rocks 2-3 times a year. But I want it to be able to handle them.
So. Question is. Do I purchase a Rubicon, which will still need axles front and rear, c-gussets, truss, geared, and other accoutrements. OR do I purchase a sport, save the money on the Rubicon decal, buy axle assemblies from either Curie or Dynatrac (front and rear) and go that route?
Before everyone jumps in and lists all the things the Rubicons have, I get it. Front and rear 44s. Lockers front and rear. Electronic Disco. And the T-case.
So front and rear axles would be replaced anyway. And in then”sport” setup of my choice I’d have aftermarket 44s if not 44 front and 60 rear. Re-gear. Like I mentioned, strengthening the front and rear axle setups. The Discos are really not that important to me. A set of quick disconnects would do just fine for me.
So. It really all comes down to, is the T-case in a Rubi really that important that I should spend the extra money to have the Rubi even though I’ll be replacing and redoing so much that make the Rubi a Rubi?
Final set up, either way, would be 44s front and rear or 44/60. Chromoly axles. 3.5-4” lift. Drive shafts. Brakes. Flat fenders, And 37s.
Thoughts, opinions?
Just trying to decide where the money should be spent.
Thanks everyone, in advance.
Below is the LJ Rubi. Just for good measure.
#2
JK Jedi
Man, for what you want to do I'd say get a Sport and build away. Everything on any Rubi you get will be scrapped cept the TC, and that's not the end-all-be-all IMO as long as you're geared properly.
#3
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I honestly don’t know how drivable 5.38s are.
Any input?
#4
JK Jedi
I've got 37 Nitto Trail Grapplers with the 3.6L. I would not want to go 5.38. 5.13 is a little aggressive for most people I think but I wanted the offroad benefit since I have the sport TC. I run 3k rpm at 75 mph or so (interstate speeds). It's totally driveable, but my fuel economy is ~13.5 mpg on a good day I'd say. Around town it's great....It's just on long road trips that cruising at 3k rpm can get a little annoying. I guess that would be the 1 thing about a rubi......it would allow you to stay geared a bit higher for pavement purposes...if you don't mind blowing the extra money up front I guess. I just think a lot of people think Rubi's are all that. The e-disco craps out, the lockers ain't great (I have rubi axles and have killed a locker), and the axle housing themselves are no stronger than the dang D30.
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Savvytravvy (07-29-2019)
#5
JK Enthusiast
Sport all the way. ESPECIALLY since you are going aftermarket axles! Really, who cares about the electronic sway bar disconnect...100 bucks for some JKS ones and done. (personally, i would take the non electronic disconnects anyway...less crap to break).
agree 100 percent with resharp on the gears and T-case.
if/when i get another jeep, i will be doing that exact route: sport with aftermarket axles.
agree 100 percent with resharp on the gears and T-case.
if/when i get another jeep, i will be doing that exact route: sport with aftermarket axles.
#6
JK Jedi Master
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Check the price differences. Rubi axles will sell for a whole lot more than the 'give-a-way or salvage just to get them out of the garage' 30/44 combo, and take-off e-discos and the stock rubi tires/wheels seem to sell well. So if you can score a good deal on a rubicon, it just might make sense.
But yeah, go for a non-rubi, then add a rubi tcase or atlas if/when you decide you need one.
But yeah, go for a non-rubi, then add a rubi tcase or atlas if/when you decide you need one.
#7
I know when I had a 38 motor everyone was telling me 513/538 when I went up to 35s
Just food for thought. Not trying to step on anyone’s toes
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Savvytravvy (07-29-2019)