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Rubicon or save the money?

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Old 03-19-2011, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by timebandit
Not with the Rubicon.
How do you figure that?
Old 03-19-2011, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mdnky
How do you figure that?
I have a 2.5" TF spring lift and kept my Rubicon shocks. The kit I got came with extensions:
Old 03-19-2011, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mdnky
How do you figure that?
Well Dave @ Northridge4x4 was my consultant. He says the Rubi shocks are more than adequate enough on their own.

With the TF 2.5" coil lift, he said there was no need to upgrade the shocks.

Lots of folks with Rubicons on the forum have done this same lift. No need to swap shocks.
Old 03-19-2011, 10:55 PM
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If you are going to use it for more than dirt roads you will be glad you got the Rubicon. If you are building a mall crawler, then get the “X”.
Old 03-19-2011, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Dog
If you are going to use it for more than dirt roads you will be glad you got the Rubicon. If you are building a mall crawler, then get the “X”.
Bs. Even if your mall crawling the rubi is the way to got. With 4:10's you can have 35's without issues.
Old 03-19-2011, 11:09 PM
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I have driven a Rubicon with 35’s and 4.10 gears and it is a DOG. You need 4.88 at a minimum for 35’s to prevent it from having no bottom end power. I don’t think you need lockers D44 axels to be a basic mall crawler. I think that is for advanced mall crawling.

Last edited by Red Dog; 03-19-2011 at 11:11 PM.
Old 03-19-2011, 11:15 PM
  #17  
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Let me rephrase: They're not optimally long enough past 1" (without extensions.)

Originally Posted by joe002
IThe kit I got came with extensions
That explains it.

Originally Posted by timebandit
Well Dave @ Northridge4x4 was my consultant. He says the Rubi shocks are more than adequate enough on their own.

With the TF 2.5" coil lift, he said there was no need to upgrade the shocks.

Lots of folks with Rubicons on the forum have done this same lift. No need to swap shocks.
Shocks are cheap, unless you go nuts with Fox or Bistein remote reservoirs, etc. If you get the correct length for your lift, they will function better. I'm sure a lot of people get by with them without issues, but that doesn't mean its the best practice. If I remember correctly, I seem to recall a thread around here (year or so ago) with some info someone got from a Jeep engineer. The basic gist was the only major difference between a non-Rubi and Rubi shock (after 08 or 09) was the color of the tube. They may have minor differences in the firmness, but they're all gas shocks now and more importantly they're the same length. The length is the main issue more than anything else (save for the 07s having hydraulic on non-Rubis and non-tow pkg models.)
Old 03-19-2011, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Dog
I think that is for advanced mall crawling.
Isn't that when you drive over all those annoying Hondas with the farting chainsaw mufflers????
Old 03-19-2011, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Dog
I have driven a Rubicon with 35’s and 4.10 gears and it is a DOG. You need 4.88 at a minimum for 35’s to prevent it from having no bottom end power.
Weird cause I drive a rubi with 35's/superchips/TBS and I have no issues. It has more bottom end then my wifes sahara.
Old 03-20-2011, 04:37 AM
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Go with the Rubi .Drive it for some time then change what you dont like .Over the last 2.5 years I ended up with 2.5 " lift 35"tires and 4.88 gears on a 6 speed and love it .


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