RezQgreen

Nice Jeep. My guess some of the feedback your feeling in the steering is because the "rake" in the front end. I'll bet it will "feel" a little better with no spacer and it riding level or slightly below level in the front. I'm really confused about lifts now........For the longest time I wanted this lift, then I decided I would go with the 6" Full-Traction, although I don't like the dropped-down cross member it has. Now I see your lift and I'm back to wanting it. What to do??????

o|||||||o EDMONTONTRADER

ok...... makes sense.

I still have to put on my engine skid and my Tranny skid from rockhard....... do you think that will bring it down some?

and then change my stabilizer and see how it rides then?

joemauma

Looks good! Let me know how installation of the engine/tranny skid goes because I know it needs some modification. I'm looking to get one as well.

Eracer76

As for your steering feel....are you sure you have your castor set right, and is the new drag link installed? I drove mine a couple times without the new drag link installed (waiting for my reamer) and it drove petty sketchy with a lot of steering wheel shake. Then once I installed the draglink, it was night and day difference. I also did some adjusting to the castor to fix a front drive line vib and that changed the steering feel some too. The backwards rake you have going on, might be playing some effect on the steering too, but anyway, you shouldnt really need the spacers. I have the same bumper and winch and mine sits pretty level, even with an engine skid. Its been on for two months and 4 wheeling trips and it is still sitting very close to level.


As for your skids, Im not sure if the Rockhard skid will fit with the RE long arm kit though, you might have to cut it up, which will probably make it weaker. It looks like it will interfere with the arms a lot ? I have the Skid Row engine/trans skid and it fits like it was ment for the RE long arm kit. The passenger side angle in the skid fits the RE arm perfect when it flexes up past it. I did not have to modify anything for the skid to fit, all I had to do was drill one hole to add a bolt ( one of the RE cross member holes was in a different spot)

Here is mine sitting on flat ground with the bumpers, winch and engine/trans skid, and a shot of the engine skid, its hard to tell in the pic, but the radius arm bracket, fits past the angle in the skid perfectly like it was designed for it

o|||||||o EDMONTONTRADER

Awesome!! thnx you answered alot of questions, are you still running the stock stabillizer? And yes I have the new draglink in.

so you think I should pull my spacers out?

did you have to trim your rockrail and pinch seam?

Eracer76

Look how close the stock arm is to the RH skid. The RE arm ties into the cross member to the right of those two black bolts you see in the cross member, so you'll definitely have to cut the skid back, and if you cut that bent up lip off the skid, it will take ALL the strength out of the skid on that side.


Then there is this little guard that attaches to the skid which will be in the way big time, you could just leave it off all together, but Im not sure if the engine skid uses it for strength as it ties into it??

Eracer76

Yep, Im still using the good old stock stabilizer, Ive got 10k miles on it now and dont have hardly any bump steer, shake, feedback in the steering wheel at all, but I only have 35's.
Some day I plan on replacing it, but more for just getting it up higher and out of the way.